You're over thinking it with white oak. The WS EasyPrime is a single coat. Then I would work with 2K Supra AT x2-3 coats (it depends on how heavy your foot traffic is in the house) In Satin. NO NEED to add the UV protect. The UV Protect ONLY works with maple or cherry or any wood that is photoSENSITIVE. White Oak is not photosensitive (that means it darkens when exposed to UV). White Oak fades...almost immediately...when exposed to UV rays.

The reason I say 2K Supra AT Satin: It is a LOW GLOSS satin. If you want a low gloss floor this is a great one to live with. This is about the lowest most people can 'handle'. The Invisible Protect AT has issues with haziness/cloudiness and people COMPLAINING of foot prints and oily things and, and, and. Yes it is super tough...but people HATE it. Why? Because it is TOO DULL.

So, here is how I would work if it were my floor (and I'm aware my house has SUPER LOW impact on floors...as do many Canadian households):

1. WS EasyPrime = 1 coat

2. 2K Supra AT GLOSS = 1 coat (or two...if you want three layers of SUPER DUPER tough film)

3. 2K Supra AT SATIN = 1 coat

The layer (or two) of the gloss = very clear finish. You get away from the 'hazy' look of too many coats of the satin/matte products. The FINAL coat is your 'finish' level = Satin.

I've put down the satin on Cork and it is fantastic. It looks very 'fresh' for about 1 month...and then it calms down and turns into a lovely matte/low gloss satin. People LOVE it.

What @SJ McCarthy said. She gave you perfect advice. I have worked with this finish myself on a cabinetry application and studied it extensively from every available resource I could find. The Invisible will theoretically give you a minor difference in the darkening, but the WS EasyPrime with Loba 2K Supra AT are SO MUCH BETTER in terms of final performance that I would go with the EasyPrime and Supra AT. It will outlast you and maybe the house under normal use. You will scarcely be able to tell a color difference from the raw wood.

Thanks so much for the expert advice SJ McCarthy and Silverlined. Exactly what we needed to know.

Can you weigh in on sealing & finishing new pine flooring with Loba products as well? We would like to keep as natural and light as possible understanding it’s the nature of pine to darken. Should we use same regimen as white oak?

We chose oak for second floor because it’s the main floor and part of this floor already had white oak and we were tying together. Due to budget, we removed carpeting and put in all pine in first floor which has bedrooms.

Thanks again for taking the time to share your knowledge.

I would think the WS EasyPrime is the way to go with Pine. The 'sealant' part is what prevents 'tannin pull'. Tannins are the things in wood (and wine...and any fruit/veg) that gives things colour. White Oak is known for tannin pull which is why you MUST use a sealant like EasyPrime.

Pine has the same issues...just more so. I would go with the same regime on the pine as the White Oak. It should give you what you are hoping for.

Remember: pine darkens not because of UV rays...but because of tannins pulling or being moved to the surface. With plenty of UV exposure (ie. old windows) the pine will LIGHTEN in a few years. You need some SERIOUS sun exposure...but it will happen. I'm looking at 30+ year old pine trim (in the rental I'm occupying) that is covered in oil based finish...and it has faded by 1/2 in the areas with direct sunlight. The stuff in the shadows has maintained it's intense ambering (a mix of tannins and oil based amber).

Thanks SJ McCarthy! I like the simplicity of using the same process and the knowledge that both woods work well with the EasyPrime. My wood finisher is very good and has a lot of experience with Loba.

SJ McCarthy, is it necessary to use a sealer when you are staining the white oak a light color? Thanks!

If we do a matte finish on white oak (using loba Easyprime and Supra with whitener) will it “look dirty”?

My sister did a Bona Traffic Naturale (matte) and sees footprints on them. We only have one coat of satin Loba 2k Supra AT so far but there is no shine to it. Our final coat will go on next week and I can give you feedback then if you aren't in a rush. We didn’t use stain. One coat of Easy Prime and will have 2 coats Satin 2k Supra AT.

I agree that matte could be different depending on product used. Our installer said they stopped using Supra AT because of complaints about it being slippery just FYI. They are using regular Supra now. I’ll get to see samples tomorrow and can compare the two finishes. Good luck with your new floors!!

Supra AT is going to last you a lifetime, though, while regular Supra won't. I have the semi-gloss Supra AT, and it has grip to it in my opinion, though I can see how that with dress shoes you might be able to get some slip on it, especially with any water spilled. I wouldn't add whitener. The EasyPrime with Supra AT is going to preserve the original color of the white oak well without any yellowing over time. If you do select matte, use it only for the top coat or it may appear cloudy. EasyPrime with Supra AT is an incredibly durable finish that you won't even have to think twice about for the rest of the time you live on those floors. It really is an investment in your future and in preserving the wood you have selected.

Silverlined, thanks for the vote of confidence on the AT. I can’t wait to walk on ours if this house is ever fininshed!

@lisachew5 how did the satin turn out? do you like the level of sheen or did it remain at no shine like you saw after the first coat?. debating between satin and semi gloss. im def not a matte person but also dont want a basketball court floor shine.

@SJ McCarthy when you mention satin as a matte/low gloss satin how would you say the loba supra 2k AT semigloss compares? were refinishing our old oil poly with water poly and unsure on sheen.

@HU-138075218 Our floors are one of my favorite things in the house. I would do the same finish again. These are two photos in the same room. They look different depending on how the light hits them. They don’t look too shiny or too dull and feel great under your feet. Good luck!

The Loba 2K Supra A.T. in semi-gloss is technically on the low end of a standard semi-gloss coating and is shiny under certain light but is, in my opinion, a long way from "basketball court shine." See more information below this photo.

Loba's Technical Data Sheets provide a numerical gloss rating for the finishes measured at 60 degrees on glass. Here is how the following finishes stack up:

2K Invisible Protect, Approximate Gloss Level = 9

2K Supra A.T. Satin, Approximate Gloss Level = 25

2K Supra A.T. Semi-Gloss, Approximate Gloss Level = 43

2K Supra A.T. Glossy, Approximate Gloss Level = 130

What those numbers tell us is that the Invisible Protect is a tad shinier than a flat matte which would be considered anything at 5 or below measured at 60 degrees on glass. The Supra A.T. satin and semi-gloss finishes are consistent with their names, while the glossy is a super-high gloss almost like a mirror. There's a huge jump between the semi-gloss and gloss. The semi-gloss is on the low end of gloss, and the glossy is off the charts by some calculations on the high end of gloss. As mentioned previously in this post, the Loba satin finishes can look cloudy after several coats. Some people use gloss for the base and then finish off with satin, but that can make repairs difficult mixing sheens.