I'll second (ha) that once bloomers are useful, have their place, and may in fact be the best option for cold climate, short season gardens.

As rosesmi5a touched on, June is the Month for Roses just as other blooms define and mark other seasons. Fungi-wise, May is the Month for Morels in Michigan!

Missing out on all the Japanese beetles is nice too!

I've never understood the shade and disdain thrown onto once blooming roses. If one's garden doesn't have the space, I can understand, but simply disliking them for blooming once strikes me as a self-righteous or elitist view similar to those people that say it's gotta be an HT or it isn't a "real" rose.

Bollocks! I wouldn't want to be without the annual glory of my lilacs, peonies, daffodils, or forsythia!

In that quest for cold hardiness, I've shifted my selections, and as I've said elsewhere, this is probably my final year really "experimenting" with varieties and from here forward, any replacements must be cane hardy or actually have enough vigour to return after severe winter die-back.

So far, my once bloomers include... Rosa setigera, Rosa hugonis, Rosa primula, Rosa eglanteria, Chianti, Fantin-Latour, and Madame Plantier. I used to have a found Rosa gallica 'officinalis' that I need to go get another start of (lawn mowers are definitely your friend with runners like gallicas) and I used to have Rosa palustris way back in the day (about seventeen years ago).

I've added several rugosas and other shrubs that are decently hardy as well- Sarah Van Fleet, Mary Manners, Alexander Mackenzie, Sunny Knockout has done decently, my long-running Therese Bugnet, Reine des Violettes, Hansa, Vanguard, and Quietness. Some other Austins come close like The Ingenious Mr. Fairchild in regards to returning vigour. Sometimes he is hardy nearly to the tips, and some years, he dies back to near the crown. I thought he was on his way out (planted 2015) but seems to be coming back hard this spring and was my first rose with a bud for 2021.

Many of these roses are babies and/or new for this year, but a few have been in the garden long enough to start proving their mettle, much like Therese Bugnet and Chianti have/are.

Steven

I'm glad to hear the good words about Therese Bugnet. I like it because it reminds me of Autumn Damask. I agree with you about once-bloomers and almost any repeat-bloomer would be suitable for my area.

What about New Dawn? I see that HMF rates it for Zone5b and higher. This rose was given to me and is one of three modern roses I grow on my fence. where it makes a spectacular display and is excellent for cutting. I never cut my beautiful once-bloomers.

Lindsey

I complain a ton about my zone 6a weather which is almost 6b weather. It never got into the negatives this year! I am realizing just how lucky I am to live in a place barely warm enough to have a good selection of HT roses that can go own root here. I will be keeping you guys' rose gardens in mind this year, as I hope, as many people do, for some more cold hardy varieties that will excel in the cold weather climates to be hybridized.

I can recommend Erinnerung, Magpie, and Alchymist, Buff Beauty and Raubritter.

That is Erinnerung left of middle.

Has anyone mentioned Marchesa Boccella? A lovely little rose--one of my favorites.

Lindsey

@Sheila z8a Rogue Valley OR Thank you 😊 I can't wait to try them! So lovely.

@lplantagenet7AVA I have heard good things about MB, but this year I put in a rose with very similar looking blooms, Sidonie, so for now I'm going to see how that one does for me. If it doesn't do well I will likely try MB in its place one day.

I will be interested to hear how it does. I have heard good reports of Sidonie and am particularly interested in any roses with obvious Damask ancestry; however, I see that HMF finds says it is susceptible to blackspot which would be a problem here in central Virginia--it's humidity more than temperature which makes our summers so unpleasant..

Lindsey

I'm not sure I'd be much help to you then, here in NE Colorado we have like 2 humid days a year. But I surely will provide photos eventually!

@lplantagenet7AVA- I've had Therese Bugnet in my southern Michigan garden(s) for the better part of fifteen years now, with a rooted cutting I started going on around seven years of age. I cannot share any images of mine at the moment, but if you want to see what MINE looks like, please visit Help Me Find (HMF) Roses and search for Therese Bugnet, and my pictures have the same user name as here on Gardenweb/Houzz (MiGreenThumb).

For me, she is a lovely, large and fountaining thing that is fully self supporting with careful, minimal pruning. She is very cold hardy, vigorous, and disease resistant. She will get some powdery mildew in autumn, but it's minor and I pay it no heed.

Mine does not set any hips, and I honestly have only ever had rebloom once, so for me she is functionally a once bloomer.

I find the blooms deliciously scented of pure rose when freshly opened on a spring morning, with the scent rapidly evaporating and picking up stronger clove notes before fading out to a light scent. The blooms last maybe three days and a good wind and rain storm can strip the bush at its peak, but nature does what it does!

Her autumn colour can be lovely and the canes provide winter interest with their red colour and frosty "bloom". I find her canes very prickly at the base and nearly thornless at the tops.

She is suckering southward along the property line and I suspect she would make a good hedge as well.

I provide her with no supplementary water and she seems very fine with that.

Steven

Steven, thank you for sharing your experience with Therese Bugnet. I received mine as a sucker from a friend's garden about ten years ago, but deer have kept it from growing large and, I suspect, prevented any rebloom. Recent development in the area around us seems to have quelled most of the deer activity so I am optimistic about growth as well as rebloom in future years because I have seen it in bloom in other gardens in this county during the summer months. I agree with you about the lovely scent and vigor--the foliage, as well as the flowers, are beautiful, too. In fact, it fits in so perfectly with Gallicas, Damasks, and other OGRs I am surprised it isn't more popular among lovers of antique roses, especially when its hardiness makes it suitable for cold as well as mild climates.

I will look up your photographs at HMF.

Lindsey

Lindsey - I grew Teresa Bugnet when I lived in zone 2. It had beautiful flowers and could really handle cold weather. My complaint was that the petals were ripped off in the heavy winds we had there. For the entire 8 years we lived there...whenever TB bloomed...horrible winds came. The blooms never lasted past one day of being on the bush. Those were really harsh conditions. So it will do better for you...unless you have strong winds. :)

Mmmmm - wow!! WP sure does well for you!! Good job! Okay, now I see your other roses...they all do well for you!! :)

Sheila - gorgeous! And the red rose really contrasts well with the lighter roses!

Steven - ah...I see that you agree with my assessment of Teresa Bugnet and how poorly it handles wind. :)

Steven--I enjoyed the pictures from your garden and look forward to the day my rose gets as large as yours. My original plant, which was larger at one point before the deer problem, produced a sucker which I've moved into the OGR section of my garden.

Lindsey

I grew Therese Bugnet in Alaska and loved her. I now ordered one from Corn Hill and love her here too. Photos are second Spring here. She reblooms constantly here. It gets very windy here too and she has done as well as any here.

In my former cold zone the season was so short that all we really had was one bloom on once bloomers or repeaters. Here Wasagaming also reblooms.

Lovely pictures. I don't think this rose gets the attention it deserves. I appreciate its compatibility in form and style with Gallicas, Damasks, etc. which are my favorites, even though I can grow most of the warm-climate roses.

Lindsey

@Sheila z8a Rogue Valley OR Okay I'm glad you commented because I was just thinking to myself "did I seriously use up one of my sunniest spots on a rose that's going to give me 3 days of flowers a year??"

Time will tell how she does here, I guess. Maybe next year she'll bloom for me and I'll see for myself.

@Mischievous Magpie (CO 5b)

I would ask Strawchicago for a list of her best performing roses for you. She is the most amazing rosarian in a cold climate on Houzz. She has 135 thriving roses and is a wealth of knowledge when it comes to growing roses well.

Using a lawn mower to get rid of suckers from roses may not be the best idea. It is recommended by Paul Zimmerman , from JP roses, to dig into the ground and remove the sucker right up next to the bud roots. If you cut it anywhere else it will grow instantly again. Suckers are difficult to deal with snd if you can avoid roses that have them, that is best.

Once bloomers are an excellent idea but you can have roses blooming all of your warm season if you buy “Floribundas and bush roses.” Buy sll zone 5 roses or lower zones, too, for hardiness.

Also, the first year of a new roses blooming is usually small and a few blooms or flushes. After they get established year after year tgey bloom sooner and tons more. So don’t be surprised if the roses bloom only a little their first year.

Also, I am finding climber roses bloom way more than others. Their first year may be only a few blooms, but in 2-3 years they will have an abundance of blooms all warm seasons until frost!!!

New Dawn Climber is considered one of the most hardy prolific big bloomers!!!! Mine is growing in the hot sun quickly. My Eden 2nd year has 15 buds compared to all my other roses which have about 3-5 buds each. They will all have more buds this spring...they are just starting out.

New Dawn (Heirloom Roses photos)

Eden in 2nd year is budding up great for me. Red Eden in first year already has many buds.

Both have glossy leaves, they are hardy roses.

And the fail safe-bloom every day, most hardy disease resistant rose you can buy on the market, are the Knock Out Family roses.

I bought a few when I moved to NY. You can neglect them and they still bloom daily!!!!

The most rosey are the “Pink Double Knock Outs or Red Double Knock Outs. I have a Peachy Knock Out, too.They get 20iish blooms on each bush and bloom all the time!!!!! They look quite beautiful, though, if you pamper them w/mulch, good soil and fertilize.” My 8 knock out roses-all have about 10-15 buds on them...way more than all other roses. My Peachy Drift rose, a scrub rose, with glossy hardy leaves, blooms abundantly, too, with 10 buds now. Landcape roses meant for ground cover, hedges, have abundant floral displays all the time. I have lots of these to fill up my hills. Even polyanthas bloom all the time, also such as Cecile Brunner and The Fairy..

Pink Double Knock Out

Looks this way all the time every day Soring-summer-fall...

I like the idea of having a few OGR bloomers, though; they have exquisite blooms!

A white-little yellow centered rose, Polar Express, has beautiful blooms and is very very hardy!

I have a few others on my list that may be excellent bloomers all the time...Bonica and Caldwell Pink are bushy roses. Diane has Royal Bonica which is gorgeous! Bonica has dark glossy leaves-very hardy!!!

If you winterize properly (burlap your roses-it works wonders!!!!!!) in late fall you will have healthy roses next year and a great showing of blooms is you purchase ever bloomers.

@Mischievous Magpie (CO 5b), Here is a list of Strawchicag’s threads. On the 3rd thread at the bottom of list she posts photos of tons of her gor groups roses grown in zone 5.

Princesse Charlene de Monaco is a really beautiful rose...a favorite... it’s fragrance is unsurpassed!

Also, for deep pinks: Ives Piaget and Pomponella Fairy Rose. Pomponella can grow grow tall with tons of blooms...

Ponponella, She’s soooooo exquisite!

i purchased PCharleneDM, Yves Piaget, & Pomponella for this spring.

I can speak from experience about New Dawn--I have two plants, now quite large on a fence on the north side of the house and one on the fence on the south side. Awakening and Blossomtime are also on the north section of the fence. All are mature and do quite well, but I don't think I have ever seen anything like the quantity of blooms which New Dawn is producing this year. The two large plants on the north side are almost entirely covered with big, exquisite pink roses and rosebuds. I prefer OGRs, but there is no denying this is a spectacular rose worthy of any garden.

Lindsey

New Dawn has distinct hardiness limits, as do most of the current, popular repeating roses. I can grow it, but it doesn't grow 10 miles north of me. It is hard to explain to people who haven't seen it happen, how suddenly roses can crash and burn. If you plot performance vs. temperature, you get a lot of graphs that look like ____/----- where the backslash part is one or two degrees. When we were involved with rose societies, I heard a lot of people talk about how they could grow certain roses in an urban heat island, but their children who lived in the suburbs couldn't. So it can be extremely important to know the limits of roses before recommending them, particularly to newbies.

Sheila - your Theresa Bugnet is fabulous!! Mine was a much lighter (medium) pink. In fact it looked a lot different than yours. Petals were more stuffed, had smaller petals and not as large of flowers. Maybe that was from being in zone 2?? Are you sure that's TB? Or maybe mine wasn't LOL

M Gallica: thank you for expanding on how the temp. range of just a few degrees / just a few miles can affect plant growth. I call the Japanese Maples my "temperature gauge" indicator plant. In town, gardeners can grow all sorts of lovely varieties of JM, and they grow into a small tree of 12-15'. A few miles out of town, the "full moon" type of JM won't live for more than a few years, and it looks like the top size for a JM grown out in the open will be 3-4' tops.

Carol & MGallica,

If a rose says it it grows on zone 5, then I am assuming the seller is saying it can grow in zone 5, such as New Dawn. But just because we are zoned 5 in general doesn’t mean we “have perfect zone 5 temps on all of our property.” Temps vary all over our properties.Learnibg to plant roses in the right spots on our properties to shelter & keep warm from chilly wind and cold /and to get enough sun and the right temperature is key.

I am zone 6 and I have lost “zone 5

& zone 6 roses,” to my NY winter cold when I didn’t winterize them enough or at all. If I put them in the corner of the house, on a hill, or out in the open yard & they get too much chilly wind or too much ch cold I have lost roses.. I lost 3/4 of a new Cherry tree to last winter’s frost and I thought it was more hardy than a rose, even. However, any place on our property, or another urban setting versus country setting can effect the temps and a “rose bush can receive too much cold-a drop in temps.” I am learning by watching the sun/shade how it goes over my property to see which spots are warmer for my roses to grow. I have decided that I will put burlap over my hill rose beds entirely for better warmth in winter or they become too chilly. I now mound all my roses for winter, too for warmth. . I have learned that it’s warmer where I live in a small city sheltered by homes than 30 miles north of me in the country or 10 minutes east of me near the lake.

I think for newbies it is important to learn to winterize their roses well, and learn to plant their roses in warm parts of their property.

For zone 5 gardeners, plant roses in sheltered spots like south facing side of home not to close to the house corners. Having small bushes or foliage from other plants near helps to shelter roses. If planted out in the middle of the sunny yard or a hill, cover with burlap for best results in winter. Now I am covering w/burlap most all of my roses, south side of home roses, too , for winter.

There are tricks to winterizing climbers such as turning them sideways & burying canes in mulch. Reading up on winterization in the fall will be of assistance.

I have found that “glossy leaves on roses are usually more hardy than plain leaves. The more leathery & glossy the stronger the rose for winter, also. All the roses I recommended above have glossy leathery leaves. They have had no black spot for me, either.

If it rains in spring/fall for a month I have to be careful about black spot. The glossy leaves roses have done the best for me.

So I assume by 'the lake' you mean Ontario. I'm on the other side of the state, near the river.

My experience south of Lake Erie was that winter protection didn't make a big difference one way or the other. Here it kills. When it is 40F and raining for a week, the last thing you want is a pile of wet stuff sitting on top of a rose. Also, the blackspot pressure here is a lot higher.

And no, just because a nursery says a rose is hardy to zone 5 doesn't mean it will grow in all zone 5s. Around here, to get a repeat bloomingrose that isn't going to have hardiness issues, you are usually looking at roses that are called hardy to zone 3. Otherwise you are looking at something that will die back to the ground, and have a hard time regrowing.

@KittyNYz6 I appreciate all the time you took to give me all that info 🙃 But I'll be totally honest, I'm not going to winter protect anything. I especially don't see me wrestling down thorny climbing canes to try to bury them, sounds painful! I'd like for my yard to be all kinds of branches, canes, seed heads and rose hips over winter for the animals, so I won't be covering anything and am going to experiment more with not cutting back dead plant tops until spring returns. But I am definitely doing as you said and paying close attention to trying to figure out the microclimate of my yard, and the protected/exposed parts of it. I'm going to experiment over the years to find the hardy roses that do best for me. I will be pleased to find the best repeat bloomers for here, but I am not dissuaded at all by the prospect of once blooming plants and in fact I find them quite intriguing. Hopefully I can find some truly beautiful hardy roses that don't need my care over winter 😊

Kitty and MadGallica--interesting comments on zones vs suitability. I have had similar experiences, and even four or five successful years with a rose may not prove its suitability for a particular location.

In 2004 (my first year buying roses), I planted a Cl. Devoniensis on the southeastern side of my garden on the south side of a tall building on the property. On the other side and the back it was sheltered by trees. Over a period of four or five years it grew into a monster, blooming well, climbing onto the peacock house and into a large nearby oak; however, a cold winter a year or two later felled it to the ground. It is now a fraction of its former size, although that is partly because the area around it no longer gets as much sun as it did ten or twelve years ago.

In 2004, I also planted Indica Major and Lamarque on a trellis in the center of the garden. Both did well for several years before Lamarque began to decline, and finally one year it failed to come back in the spring. Indica is now so large the weight of leaves and blooms pulled it partly off of its trellis this spring but I'm hoping I can prune it enough to get it back in place.

Teas and Chinas are supposed to be ideal for my zone 7A garden and they thrive at Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond, but haven't done particularly well for me in Hanover County. While I will continue to try with those that are left, my lack of success with roses that are supposed to be right is one (although only one) of the reasons I have come to prefer cold-climate once-bloomers. I don't want any rose that needs winter protection, and as for repeat bloom, summer flowers here in hot, humid Virginia weather are never very pretty anyway.

Lindsey

Lindsey, Magpie, That is interesting to buy OGR once bloomers that don’t need winter protection. I need to look into that further.

On Heirloom Roses you can click on zone 5, 4, 3 and it shows roses that grow in those zones. I am intrigued as mainly OGR come up for zone 4. I suppose I’d look at zone 4 or 3 maybe if I didn’t wish to winterize. Maybe next year I will get some of these for my zone 6 and see how well they like winter. I’d love to see your list of once bloomers that you are tryibg out to not winterize? EDIT: Ok, I am sold on the Once Bloomers... I read an article from Harlequin’s garden on “Why plant a once bloomers...” Then I looked at Heirloom Roses once bloomers...I have had my eye on several once bloomers I adore and may select from...beautiful pinks....

Autumn Damask, Queen of Denmark. But I also love the OGR continually blooming “Rein de Violettes , Yolande De Aragon, and Ispahan,” and more...

I know that sometimes knock outs roses don’t need winter protection which I saw many in my area unprotected, but my knock outs need burlap as last winter they had too many canes lost to cold.on front hill.

Kitty - that's interesting! You've found that glossy leaved rose bushes are hardier! I'm glad you noticed that. :)

Rose Michigan, I would love to see a picture of your milk jug set up. I'm trying to imagine it and having a hard timeRose Michigan coma I would love to see a picture of your milk jug set up. I'm trying to imagine it and having a hard time

@Vaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley I think they meant they cut two slits horizontally and parallel to each other on both sides, like an equal sign on both sides, and the chopsticks weave behind the middle strip of the equal sign and stick in the ground to anchor the milk jug.

Magpie, do you know this blog: https://kansasgardenmusings.blogspot.com/p/my-roses.html ?

Maybe you can find something interesting for you there :)

Magpie, V-vac -- Magpie, you described the milk jug set up perfectly: the slits make an = sign, and the chopstick is the "l'" flagpole the weaves through it. I will try to take a picture today, but Magpie's words got it down!

I grow a lot of very different kinds of once bloomers. The earliest start blooming around May 1st, the latest around the middle of July. This is one of the smaller ones, R. spinossisima

You don't winter protect something this size, even if you think it is a good idea.

I have 30 varieties of once-bloomers in the OGR/European section of my garden, if I include Indica Major which grows a short distance away on a trellis. Here they are, by class--some of the oldest OGRs, nothing exotic, but a few one-of-a kinds in the hybrid group:

Gallicas: Apothecary, Rosa Mundi, Tuscany, La Belle Sultane, Conditorum, Doubled Marbled Gallica (not commonly grown, I think--haven't heard anyone mention it. but a nice, clean, hardy double Gallica that forms hips), Belle Isis, Duchese de Montebello.

Damasks: Autumn Damask, Kazanlik, Quatre Saisons Blanc Mousseux (never has repeated for me), Bella Donna (I think), and Ispahan.

Moss/Centifolia: Unnamed Pink Moss that suckers and forms hips like any Gallica; White Bath, Cabbage Rose (have trouble getting buds on White Bath and Cabbage, but both are big and healthy)

All of these are clean in the spring, but all of my Chinas, etc. already have blackspot--very discouraging. Some of the Damasks have developed a few spots this week as the weather turn1. 1ed hot.

Species:

Eglantine (moved into the European section last December)

Setigera (moved into the European section last December)

Hybrids and/or Unclassified:

These are clean:

Mme. Plantier

La Tourterelle (just starting to bloom--produces clusters of powder pink blooms in rosette form with button eyes)--HMF says it has Gallica ancestry

Banshee

Rose Edouard type (I think) but looks more Damask than China--given to me by a friend whose grandmother grew it

Russell's Cottage Lookalike Purple Cemetery Rose--excellent--long bloom cycle

These get blackspot:

Indica Major--always one of the first to bloom--stays in bloom for a month--a beautiful rose with silky flowers in medium pink, flesh pink, and almost white--more pink in cool weather--produces hips and really does have a tea scent

Velvety red or nearly red rose sold some years ago by Ashdown as Rose Edouard--China traits predominant--I believe it was given to Ashdown by a northern grower so many be hardy--definitely not Rose Edouard

Deep pinkish red cemetery rose with small leaves, gets more blackspot than any rose I have but has a long bloom cycle and puts on quite a show--probably one of the early 19th century hybrids leading to HPs--formal arrangement of petals suggestive of quartering, but not really quartered--forms hips

Another cemetery rose with larger flowers in a similar style and larger leaves and probably in the same line of development as the rose mentioned above--less susceptible to blackspot--I think one of these two , perhaps the former, could be Malton

List does not include hardy repeat blooming except for Autumn Damask and QSBM and Portland which seems to have died this spring. I am planning to replace it.

Lindsey

What a pretty scene. I am curious. Which rose starts in mid-July? Wouldn't happen here in central VA, of course, although maybe in the western part of the state in zones 5 or 6.

The latest I have are Moschata which usually begins in early June (but is already starting this year) and blooms until the cold weather sets in and once-bloomer Setigera which starts about mid-June.

When I first started I had one of the wild Virginia roses (also a June bloomer) but it grew to nearly six feet and suckered so aggressively I had to take it out. I must have had a different variety of the Virginia rose when I was a child because it never grew that tall nor did it sucker so aggressively. I would like to find one of the same type again. Both were wild specimens that I collected.

Lindsey

I left out my out my beautiful Albas! I have Maiden's Blush (four of them), Aba Maxima, Konigin von Danemark, and Felicite Parmentier (two). K von D is not in the European section but I am trying. without much success, to propagate one to plant there. I did propagate the Alba Maxima and both of the Felicities. The original grafted plant was destroyed when an oak tree fell on it during a storm. The four MBs are grafted--three replacements for the Maxima I never received from Pickering.

Lindsey

@lplantagenet7AVA tell me a bit about your MB? The only alba I have is Madame Plantier.

Yes, the last rose to start here is setigera. Our main bloom season usually doesn't start until the second week of June, which is one reason why I find the early bloomers so satisfying.

I suggest that you look into Earth Song, and Morden Blush. They are winter hardy requiring no winter cover. They repeat rapidly, and flower prodigiously. Earth Song grows like a weed.

Mad Gallica - the rose bus has charm with a capital C!! Beautiful!!

Totally agree with Mark about Morden Blush!!

I have to say I'm a bit disappointed with Morden Blush. It does have very pretty blooms, but mine is a weak grower, does not bloom much after the first flush, and blackspots. I will try to move it to a different place, but if there is no improvement, I'm not sure if I will continue growing it.

I have The Fairy growing right next to it, and it's healthier, hardier, more vigorous and blooms like crazy, especially in autumn. Both are three years old own root.

Mad Gallica--your main season begins almost two months after ours. First roses here usually start in the last week or 10 days of April, unless we have a cold, snowy March, Even so, I would enjoy a wild rose that started earlier in the month. I moved one of the tip-rooted shoots of Setigera into the once-blooming' section to extend the end of the season there. since the the Damasks and HPs in that section aren't doing as much as I hoped.

Mischievous Magpie--if I had to choose a favorite Alba, it would be Maiden's Blush. It's a quietly elegant plant with big, flat warm pink flowers that bend the canes with their weight and have a delightful scent many describe as similar to the scent of baby powder. I would agree with that--I love the fragrance and softness of the petals against my face in early morning.

So much, however, depends on what you want a rose to do for you. MB starts later here and often gets caught in the heat. We are having a late May heat wave here now after a long string of wonderful cool or average days although I was surprised to hear on the news last night that NYC was hotter yesterday than Richmond.

You said you had Mme. Plantier and I agree it is a lovely rose, too, with a longer bloom cycle, at least in my garden, and many times more buds. If I were 5VA or 6VA instead of 7VA, I assume MB would have a longer cycle for me. Does anyone know? Is there anyone here from zones 5 or 6 in the western part of VA?

Lindsey

I'm in zone 5B officially. To answer your question about New Dawn, I tried twice with New Dawn and ultimately gave up. Most years, there was so much dieback that I ended up with only a small number of blooms. I had one year where I had quite a few blooms and a lot of hope, but the next year we had a really cold winter and it was like starting from scratch all over again. I finally ripped it out and planted a John Davis Canadian Explorer Rose there. I've only had him a few years, but I like him very much. He does get powdery mildew in late summer.

Last year, I got a Therese Bugnet and to some extent, the jury is still out. It's a much more graceful bush than my other rugosa hybrids. In my first year, she had a good number of blooms, but a rainstorm one week later wiped it all out. I had a lot of buds later that year for a rebloom, but only one blossom. She also got a bit chlorotic and had some powdery mildew. But I'm learning more about how to deal with those issues. This year she is larger and blooming right now and I'm hoping that we won't have rain for a few more days, even though we need it, for that very reason. Today, I was at the Chicago Botanic Garden, which is closer to Lake Michigan and probably half a zone warmer. They had several quite large Therese Bugnet roses there which were doing just fine. In fact, I didn't realize they could get that big!

@Nancy R z5 Chicagoland Great info, thank you!

Therese Bugnet is chronically and fatally susceptible to raspberry cane borers here in my part of Michigan. We have lots of wild black raspberries growing "everywhere", so there is a permanent reservoir for new sources of infection waiting in the wings so to speak. I decided to pick a different battle; no TB for me.

https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/controlling_raspberry_cane_borer

I wonder whether we have that problem here in VA. About 6 years ago wild raspberries began popping everywhere, even in wooded areas. I have seen only one black raspberry plant--the rest are red.

Lindsey

Magda - oops...I guess location matters. Mine in zone 3 (dry) did wonderfully. Not a speck of disease...and a fabulous bush with tons of roses and great rebloom. What a shame that it's not as good where you live.

rosesmi5a - I didn't realize that raspberry cane borers liked roses. I guess they're in the same rosacea family. None of your other roses are bothered? Interesting.

@lplantagenet7AVA That's nice to hear that Madame Plantier has a good bloom cycle. I planted mine as a band this spring so it's tiny, and unlike most of the other bands I've planted this spring, it has not even attempted to produce a single leaf of new growth, not even a hint of one. Meanwhile Ispahan, Reine Victoria, Sidonie, Gruss an Aachen, and Polka are all putting out plenty of new growth. Hopefully MP is not pouting at the conditions I've given it.

I hope it will do well for you. It has been an easy rose for me, especially since I moved it into the European section. The first to move is planted in a three-gallon pot but it's huge. The other--moved in its wire cage (to protect from voles) in February 2020-- bloomed last spring and more this year. It is an a shadier location than the larger plant, but I think it will do well there. This is a nice, clean rose, which I appreciate, because Blackspot is a problem here. My once-bloomer season is in its 6th week (counting from the first rose to open) and coming to a close, but both plants are still blooming

Lindsey

Rosecanadian -- nope, only the rugosas. I have only two, up by the house where I can quickly see and cut out the inevitable infestation. Canes rarely make it more than two years; like clockwork they seem to get infested by the end of their second year.

That's a shame...since rugosas are such carefree bushes....other than these borers. :(