Actually Tulip trees have perfect flowers, meaning they can self pollinate having both male and female parts in the same flower. For Tulip Trees, heavy seed crops tend to compensate for low seed viability (around 5-20 percent). The samaras are wind dispersed to distances 4 and 5 times the height of the parent tree. Seeds require a cold stratification period, and germination rates vary with time and temperature. Under controlled conditions, stratification in moist sand within a temperature range of 32° to 50° F for periods of 70 to 90 days resulted in satisfactory germination. However, seedling yield increases with increasing time of stratification. Generally as temperature decreases and time increases the germination rate increases; for example, 90 percent germination occurred after 140 days at 36 degrees Fahrenheit. Germination is epigeal and occurs when seeds remain constantly moist for several weeks. Seed Germination and seedling development is enhanced on mineral soil or on well-decomposed humus than on a thick, undecomposed litter layer. Germinating yellow-poplar seedlings need a suitable seedbed and adequate moisture to survive and become established. After germination, several critical years follow. During this period sufficient soil moisture must be available, good drainage and protection against drying and frost heaving are necessary, and there must be no severe competition from nearby sprout growth. In a study in which various mulches were used to induce soil temperature variation, seedlings grew faster in warm soil than in cool soil. Soil temperatures as high as 97° F had a beneficial effect on seedling growth.

One of the easiest ways to provide your photo to be embedded into a post is to upload it onto an image hosting site such as Photobucket, Flickr, etc. That should be pretty straight forward, and the individual sites will give instructions on how to get your photos uploaded to their site when you sign up. Once your picture has been uploaded, find its web address by right clicking on the image and copying the image location. Some sites may even provide your image's address in a text box below the photo for your convenience. Let's say, as an example, that the address of the picture you want to post is http://somepicturesite.com/yourpicture.jpg To embed the picture into a post, use the command: img src="http://somepicturesite.com/yourpicture.jpg"> If your picture is too large to fit nicely into the text page, you can add a width attribute. The command with the width attribute would look something like: img src="http://somepicturesite.com/yourpicture.jpg" width=600> Note that I had to use special characters to get the commands above to show up here without turning into pictures, but you can use them as shown (with the correct image web address, of course).

sounds kind of short.. for the size of the trunk ... the size of the root mass is irrelevant ... will your soil hold in a ball???? if not.. skip it ... start digging a 4 foot root ball ... wrap the sides in burlap ... undercut it.. and finish the burlapping... and then figure out how to lift a 2 to 3 HUNDRED root ball.. out of the hole ... in the mean time.. dig a new hole... then figure out how to drag it across the yard .... i got mine as mail order whips ... for under 10 bucks.. years ago ... frankly i dont know why you want to invest a day or two.. in supreme extensive hard labor ... in my world.. its simply not worth it ... once you get it in the new hole ... hopefully at the proper level.. because i doubt you will be able to lift it out ... backfill about half way.. flood it ... backfill the rest.. flood again ... [and i am presuming your soil will properly drain ...] .. see link for various other variables .... then mulch properly.. and be in charge of water for two years ... this would be best done.. in full dormancy.. 6 to 8 weeks before the heat of summer.. and 4 weeks prior to leaf out.... since you dont say where you are.. who knows when that is .... minutes after ground thaw... in my MI .... again ... i wouldnt waste my time ... ken Here is a link that might be useful: link

The tree and the house have lived together for a while. you say nothing that causes alarm in my mind, but then again...I haven't been there, and without eyes on, this is incredibly difficult. I'd keep some different folks coming out. maybe you can do it under the guise of an estimate, maybe you'll have to pay up a time or two for on site inspections. So you ask someone to come out and look at a tree. keep the language as open as possible, because as soon as you say, what about taking it down, you have self-selected the direction of the conversation. What you're looking for is someone you will answer your questions and you feel comfortable with. everyone comes into a conversation with an agenda...everyone. but if you're talking to a guy about a tree, knowing he makes money by taking it down, and if he says he really doesn't think it's necessary, he's advising he doesn't get paid. if he say yes it should be trimmed or removed, what's his reason? do other people agree with the reasoning? There's always certifications, more of those than I care to mention, insurance, various methods of checking out contractors. you're starting something a lot of people don't really know well, which is evaluating tree health. there's a lot of people who see a tree close to a house and the only thought they have is it has to come down. I assume the house is new to you? sorry if I missed that above. unless you see something that just scares the living bejessus out of you, i'd wait to see how things look once they leaf out. if nothing else, it'll give you a sense of how specific trees and the house relate to each other, and to the yard. P.S. zero-turn mower. you still need the lawn tractor for cleaning and working, but you'll love the zero-turn for mowing.