Plants don't age in the same way we think of people aging. Age in people is a described on a chronological basis, where plants age ontogenetically. This might be framed as, the parts that have taken the most cell divisions to produce are the plant's oldest parts; so strangely, the most recent part of the plant (say, a new branch high on the plant) to grow is the oldest part of the plant. The youngest part of the plant will be found in the root to shoot transition zone. This juvenile part of the plant is also nearly always the most vigorous part of the plant. Plants pass through life stages until they end up at the sexually mature stage. At that point they are capable of blooming/fruiting. Whether they DO or not is complicated and not entirely understood. Blooming and other environmental reactions of most healthy plants are primarily influenced by day length (technically it's night length), but more than a few plants are triggered by other factors, like moisture availability, temperature, predation. Some plants even seem to have an internal 'alarm clock' that acts as a trigger to bloom. There are species of bamboo that bloom as infrequently as every 130 years and when the bloom occurs, all plants of a given genetic origin bloom simultaneously, en masse (all at once), and this occurs regardless of environmental influences. Now, that a plant is capable of blooms/fruit doesn't mean it will produce same, no matter how much we hope. The factors that limit a plant's ability to bloom are as complicated as those that trigger blooming. The plant's internal chemical messengers that limit blooming is first influenced by the plants ontogenetic age, but then by health, stress, stored energy reserves, a significant number of environmental factors, and sometimes seemingly no more than a built-in piqued obstinacy that can be more irritating than Justin Bieber or the Kardashians, if that's even possible. How do I get it to bloom? Keep it healthy and let it do its thing. You can search online - there might be some simple ways to coax it to bloom exactly whenever it feels like it. How old does it have to be? The only age important to plants is what growth phase they're in. They have to be old enough chronologically to have reached sexual maturity. This is also complicated because the (ontogenetic) age of the parent plant from which the propagule (that is now your plant) was taken has to be a part of the equation. Example - a hawthorn tree from seed needs to survive around 20-25 growth cycles to bloom; whereas, a cutting from a blooming hawthorn tree can be counted on blooming within a few years if its state of vitality has been generally good. Al

Where did you get you coco palm? I do wonder though what variety it is. My coconut is still less green. The new leaf is way greener, but not as green as yours. Only in places it is. I do have a new frond though that may be a darker green. Right now its a single spear about 68% up from the center.

Looks like too much heat and not enough water. If it had been grown in less then full sun,then its also adapting to that with old fronds burning. Water more,and see if the new flush of fronds is greener. If so-home free! Also,If your in a Sunset desert zone or a hot inland soucal valley-it will always need some shade to look best.

"I water it probably once a week" Try not to water on a set schedule-water when the plant needs it. There are many ways to tell when a plant needs watering-one commonly used is the wooden dowel method. Take a wooden dowel or chopstick, stick it all the way into the soil, wait ten minutes, then pull it out. If the dowel is dirty/dark/obviously wet, withhold watering. If the dowel is clean/normal colored/obviously dry, water. "but I don't water it a lot each time" Is the soil pulling away from the edges of the pot? Peat-based soils like MG have a bad tendency to become water repelling if left to dry for too long. They can harden to the consistency of a brick. Any water the grower gives will simply run over the top, down the sides of the dry root ball, and out the drainage hole. If this is happening, then I would take a bucket or a large sink big enough to fit the pot, fill the bucket or sink to the top, then slowly submerge the pot. Bubbles will begin flowing from the soil-this is just stale air in the root system being forced out of the dry soil by the fresh water pouring in. Hold it there for a few minutes, maybe five minutes after bubbling stops to ensure the entire root ball is saturated. I would then lift the pot, let it drain well, then set it back in its usual place. "I purchased some palm tree spikes, broke one up, and put it in the pot." I've read on Gardenweb that many people don't recommend the spikes because they may cause a large concentration of fertilizer salts in one area without properly spreading throughout the root system. I would take out the spikes and switch to a 3:1:2 ratio fertilizer, like Foliage Pro 9-3-6 or MG 12-4-8/ 24-8-16. Be sure to flush the pot before fertilizing-first saturate the entire root ball, wait for maybe ten minutes, then slowly pour water so that an amount of water equal to 10 times the volume of the container exits the drainage hole. Good luck! Also, word of advice-the next time you prune something or otherwise use tools to create a wound in the plant (like a cut, etc.) sterilize the tools beforehand. You can use rubbing alcohol-wipe the blades thoroughly or soak the blades for a few minutes, then let dry. This can lower the risk of introducing infectious agents into the plant because of your cut. It may seem unnecessary, but it certainly doesn't hurt.