"I repotted it in a clay pot with Miracle-Gro soil."

What kind? Moisture Control or regular MG potting soil?

How much light does your dorm recieve? Do you know which direction the window faces (South, West etc.)?

Some pictures would help as well.

" I also spray it twice a day, because my dorm room is pretty dry, although I run a humidifier every night."

I would stop misting-I've read many posts here where people have said that misting offers no benefits at all to the plant in terms of humidity. The constant moisture on the leaves could promote fungal growth without proper air circulation.

I'm sure we can help your plant recover!

Sorry, I forgot to mention that! I have a south facing window and the palm sits right in front of the window, so I think it should be getting enough sun. It's potted in just regular miracle grow soil. The reason I spray it so much is because in order for it to get any light, it has to be right in front of the heating unit, which I'm worried may cause the palm to dry out. I will try to upload a picture soon.

Here's another pic:

It looks like a Majesty palm to me. They make terrible house plants, because they require lots of sunlight. I used to have one, but I grew it outdoors almost all year long, and then I'd bring it back indoors for the winter. Mine did just fine, but only because it grew in direct sunlight when it was outdoors. I finally just let mine go to the big compost heap in the sky. It was getting to be too big to bring indoors for the winter. If they don't get enough sunlight, then they start to decline.

As for giving them fertilizers, even though we say that we're "feeding" our plants fertilizers, those fertilizers are not plant food. They are only plant nutrients. Plants produce their own food via photosynthesis, and they can only do that when they get sufficient sunlight. Some plants require very little sunlight, some plants require lots of it. Majesty palms are plants that require as much sunlight as you can give them. Which is why I grew mine outdoors for as long as possible every year. It doesn't matter how much fertilizers yout give your plants. Those fertilizers won't do them any good unless your plants can properly photosynthesize them into the food they need to sustain themselves.

I live in climate zone 4/5 in south eastern PA.

"I water it probably once a week"

Try not to water on a set schedule-water when the plant needs it. There are many ways to tell when a plant needs watering-one commonly used is the wooden dowel method. Take a wooden dowel or chopstick, stick it all the way into the soil, wait ten minutes, then pull it out. If the dowel is dirty/dark/obviously wet, withhold watering. If the dowel is clean/normal colored/obviously dry, water.

"but I don't water it a lot each time"

Is the soil pulling away from the edges of the pot?

Peat-based soils like MG have a bad tendency to become water repelling if left to dry for too long. They can harden to the consistency of a brick. Any water the grower gives will simply run over the top, down the sides of the dry root ball, and out the drainage hole.

If this is happening, then I would take a bucket or a large sink big enough to fit the pot, fill the bucket or sink to the top, then slowly submerge the pot. Bubbles will begin flowing from the soil-this is just stale air in the root system being forced out of the dry soil by the fresh water pouring in. Hold it there for a few minutes, maybe five minutes after bubbling stops to ensure the entire root ball is saturated. I would then lift the pot, let it drain well, then set it back in its usual place.

"I purchased some palm tree spikes, broke one up, and put it in the pot."

I've read on Gardenweb that many people don't recommend the spikes because they may cause a large concentration of fertilizer salts in one area without properly spreading throughout the root system. I would take out the spikes and switch to a 3:1:2 ratio fertilizer, like Foliage Pro 9-3-6 or MG 12-4-8/ 24-8-16. Be sure to flush the pot before fertilizing-first saturate the entire root ball, wait for maybe ten minutes, then slowly pour water so that an amount of water equal to 10 times the volume of the container exits the drainage hole.

Good luck!

Also, word of advice-the next time you prune something or otherwise use tools to create a wound in the plant (like a cut, etc.) sterilize the tools beforehand. You can use rubbing alcohol-wipe the blades thoroughly or soak the blades for a few minutes, then let dry. This can lower the risk of introducing infectious agents into the plant because of your cut. It may seem unnecessary, but it certainly doesn't hurt.

Update: there is now sticky shiny stuff on the leaves, which I'm assuming comes from the bugs, and the little bugs seem to be even more abundant, even though I drowned the palm in water for several minutes last week. Should I think about buying an insecticide?

Spray with a 50/50 mix of 1 part water and 1 part isopropyl alcohol.

Thoroughly spray the tops and bottoms of the leaves, stems, and every place you can. Repete every 4 days until they're gone.

That should do the trick.

Update: I am now certain the palm has a scale infestation. I purchased a systemic insecticide for houseplants. Hopefully that should do the trick!

Your Majesty Palm has half its root ball exposed. That should all be under the soil. Palm roots are very sensitive.

I just noticed that too. Looks like it was placed is way too shallow of a pot.