when I worked for Mohawk the laminate could be acclimated in the carton. A recent post was told that engineered did not have to be acclimated. Since they specifically tell you to spread them out then I would. Glue is another issue. If you don't use whats recommended a adhesion problem may not be covered. If it affected other issues it would be an out for mfctr to blame the wrong glue.

The plywood over the cork is needed for a NAIL DOWN hardwood. Nail down is the CHEAPEST method for installing any form of hardwood. Glue down hardwood is the most expensive. It is also the BEST for sound. So....the sound deadening for the area REQUIRES the plywood. You can't get around that. The cork is required so you can't get around that. You cannot nail INTO cork. You must glue to cork. That is the only option. So... you are adding the plywood for the sound requirements AND for the installation options. With all those layers, the labour costs are bang on. If you estimate $2/sf for EACH LAYER of prep....you come up with $8/sf without MUCH EFFORT. The glue for the cork to concrete = only option. The glue for the PLYWOOD onto the cork = only option. We call this a double stick. If you glue the hardwood to the plywood you would have a TRIPLE stick. This is the MOST IMPRESSIVE option out there. It is also the MOST expensive option. You can nail into the plywood = no problem SO LONG AS the plywood is THICKER than the nail shanks. You do NOT want nails reaching into the cork layer. If the cork layer is pierced by nails, you start to LOSE the acoustic properties of the installation. If you think of each nail as a small telephone wire (ahem...metal TRANSMITS NOISE REALLY WELL) that is transmitting noise from your space to someone else's...and vice verse, you get the idea. One nail is no big deal. A floor with 10,000 nails = 10,000 telephone wires transmitting noise THROUGH the cork insulation and into your space. This is a HUGE deal. Again, the nail down install into the plywood is NOT an issue so long as the nail shank does NOT reach the cork. That means you want a plywood layer that is roughly 1/2". And with cork costs that are MORE EXPENSIVE than the plywood, you must be purchasing 1/2" cork. The cost of 1/4" cork should be the SAME as 1/2" plywood. Check your thicknesses so that you can feel confident that the right thicknesses are being used for the type of install that is about to occur. Most of LA likes to see 1/2" cork. I hope this helps.

You've documented everything very very well! Good for you! It will go a long way. The way to go about this is to show the "installation" instructions to the GC and then follow tht up with a DETAILED description (kinda like what you just did in this post) of HOW the company/installers FAILED to maintain the warranty by improperly 'handling' the storage/acclimation and installation. Add photos to your 'talk'. This is going to be a 'presentation' to the GC. I would schedule an hour - 2 hours for something this important. You have a contract with the GC. The GC has a contract (subcontract) with the flooring company/installers. The installers answer to the GC and the GC answers to you. Go ahead and take the time to organize a meeting (1-2 hours) that includes documentation. As a 'paper trail' I would send everything by email PRIOR to your meeting so the GC can have a chance to view the issues and is prepared for the meeting. The email also DATE STAMPS your concerns/issues should you need to move to a higher level of authority. If the GC will NOT take action, then you go to an NWFA Certified Inspector (www.nwfa.org) to prove the issues. This costs money so I would work with the 'cheap and free' route first via the GC.

OK...you have a few options: 1. Live with it and get the Builder to CARRY the 25 year/life time warranty of the flooring manufacturer because they voided the warranty due to "improper installation technique". OR, 2. They pull up everything and fix it at their expense. The way you can get your way is to find the manufacturer, the product 'line' and then find the INSTALLATION instructions. You print off the instructions (2 copies please) and organize a meeting. You SIGN AND DATE both copies of the Installation instructions as well as your email you sent them asking for their fix. You will also copy your pictures (sent via email AND physical copies at the meeting...signed/dated, etc). Feel free to high-light the important parts of the 'flatness' rating AND the vapour barrier over concrete. All vinyl products have this written into the installation instructions. I know...I've looked. The GOOD news is you have photos PROVING they did NOT use the vapour barrier. That is your life-raft and your rescue boat all in one. Remember: you aren't doing this for you, per se, you are doing it for the NEXT person they build for. The BUILDER must learn this mistake. S/he must recognize the $0.13/sf they SAVED on the vapour barrier TODAY is always going to cost them MORE tomorrow. Always. They will 'pay' for their oopsa by LEARNING the cost of a REDO! That's the way people learn...if it costs them the ENTIRE PROFIT of the floor because they had to make it right. Be firm...and let the builder LEARN this lesson. Push hard for the redo. If not, ask for the ENTIRE flooring allotment back (cash in hand) and hire someone to do this properly.