I have both. One bathroom has 1/2" starphire the other is 3/8" I like the heft of the 1/2" even though it is not necessary (like HP in a car, after a certain minimum it really does not matter except to the owner). Hinges are designed to hold 1/2" and your designer should be able to pick the right ones. weight and width are not a problem. 3/8" is perfectly adequate so we used it in another bathroom. I guess this discussion is similar to the 2cm vs 3cm granite. 2cm works perfectly well. so does 3cm. If you like the heft, get the thicker material.

Thank you Annz. One of the installers called me back so he is the one I will use to install the floor. He is the middle of the price range and he told me he will take a break from the job he is on tomorrow to come by to let me know exactly what we need but from my description he feels I need 2 T-moldings (88" long and I need 4" more than this from my measurements for the two areas) and the reducer will not be good if the area is only a 1/8th difference. But he will see for sure and bring a floating pad and a 1/2" board. He also will let me know the exact number of reducers we will need since they are not returnable I just found out. He feels we have enough extra waste for the wood and he is very good at not wasting wood and is good at what he does. Hence, I guess I will wait for him to arrive tomorrow. Truehardwoods.com has been so patient with me and will give me a few more days (they have the order in the system but it is not yet sent to their distributor) to be sure about what I need as well as let me know which glue I ordered to allow me to change the wood glue to waterproof glue between the seams. Another installer just called me back and had no idea and that is not a good sign. So if the installer comes by tomorrow that called earlier, he has the job. I guess I better get back to my work and get a good night's sleep tonight and see what the installer has to stay that is stopping by tomorrow.

Thank you idrive65 for your reply. I just pulled up the carpet with a client who has begun a friend and we put a thin catalogue under the wood to be the floating material and it appears that there is only 1/8th difference in height of the two floors so I may need two T-Moldings and not one unless a reducer can be used there which is what I would prefer. I will call right now to see if I can order the 2 T-Moldings and the extra reducer and return them if I do not need them. I guess I need to know the length of the T-Molding. I will never order without a confirmed installer that I trust working with me again. Thank you CCoombs for letting me know that a good installer can work with me if I only order 7%. Now I am wondering if I should have more. I just stopped by my neighbor's home and she has reducers but her floors heights seem to be 1/4th inch difference. A few days ago her floors felt so hard to me since they were glued down. But today I took off my shoes and walked around barefeet on my tiles as I was measuring so when I was in socks on her floor, it no longer felt so hard and now I wonder if my idea of floating instead of gluing to be safe when my concrete floor was told to be dry, is a mistake and I should glue the floor? I don't want to seal the floor since it will add up the cost and time to get all the furniture out of all the rooms.

Taking care of your own lawn will result in a nicer lawn that you have confidence in. You'll know what's going on and why. Also you won't waste resources or damage your environment. Sod is a good idea in the spring. When you seed in the spring you get a lot of weeds coming in with the new grass. Further, new spring grass does not develop good roots before the hot weather hits. The end result is you have crabgrass in those spots by July. If you want to begin mixing Kentucky bluegrass into your lawn, that will help keep the bare spots to a minimum. KBG spreads to fill thin areas whereas fescue and rye grasses do not. Apply preemergent when the forsythia begins to bloom in your neighborhood. Spot spray weeds in April. Fertilize in late May (Memorial Day) Fertilize in early fall (Labor Day) Fertilize again with a high N (low to 0 P and K) fast release fertilizer after your grass stops growing in late fall but before the frost takes it to complete dormancy. The idea is to get nutrients into the roots without stimulating new growth that late in the season. This is "winterizer." It will help the grass come out of dormancy in the spring. In addition to, or in place of, one of the fertilizer drops, I would use an organic fertilizer. Organic fertilizer works differently from chemical fertilizers. The organic will improve the health of your soil as much as helping your grass green up and grow. Mulch mow at your mower's highest setting for your lawn. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall. You should not get a disease following this plan. Most bugs you see in the lawn are beneficial. There is always a chance of getting bugs that are not good. Usually you would see the damage in August, so the time to inspect the lawn for them is in late June. If you don't see a lot of Japanese beetles swarming your porch lights in May or June then you probably won't have a grub problem. Good luck taking this on. As you can see it is fairly straight forward and not hard.