Yes, I realize that. I meant here on the Houzz site - or perhaps on the IKEA Hacker's site. It would be great to see exactly how to adjust the non-apron sink cabinet to fit an apron sink. We have to do it nonetheless, so I might take pictures and post if I can't find anything else. Our sink is not as heavy as the 30" sink inserted into into a 30" cabinet, so the framing requirements should not be as stringent. Plus, the methodology there was to combine two cabinets together.

IKEA sales -- and the third party kitchen installer -- guaranteed that the Sektion legs would support a stone countertop. Still, I was not reassured. These are adjustable legs so the legs are not supporting the weight, the screw threads are supporting the weight, and the screw threads are plastic and only a few millimeters deep. A leg failure could cause a countertop crack, shift, or even a fall with the potential for significant injury or foundational damage. I opted to place a better-rated 2x4 (x 4 ¾) at each of the leg sites; they fit nicely between or in front of each adjoining cabinet. An 8-foot length of 2x4 is rated for 1000 lbs vertical weight load; each block should provide similar support. I employed 22 such woodblocks. I made sure that the fit was snug but also ensured that the adjacent leg(s) continued to be weight-bearing. Typically, cutting the woodblock within an eighth-inch allowed me to slide the block to such a snug site, somewhere under one of the cabinets. The final woodblocks required an exact fit and I had to plane the length to achieve a snug fit. See below, and also note the Sektion Leg threads.

"For the undermount sink we screwed two strips of wood to the side walls of the cabinet to support the sink." I strongly discourage this procedure. I constantly repair leaking double bowl stainless steel sinks that have been supported this way. Most sinks do not have a stanchion between the bowls. This means that each bowl is supported by wood on one side and steel-on-the-flat on the other. Steel-on-the-flat flexes, especially with the weight of a disposal pulling the sink down, causing leaks. Leaks cause rot, rust, insect infestation, and unsanitary gunk where you're preparing food for your family. Of course I have tons of pictures to support my claims. Wood cleats cannot provide the constant upward even pressure on sinks that a Hercules Universal Sink Harness (Braxton Bragg) or a Sink Strap (Regent Stone Products) can. You can stand in a strapped sink. You can jump up and down in a strapped sink. You can push on the steel-on-the-flat and it will not budge; it can't defy the laws of physics. And straps take up less room than cleats.

Our kitchen is not fully assembled yet (we're waiting on the countertop install) so we haven't fully fleshed out the drawer uses. We started by looking at work areas then made our best guess as to the most useful drawer combinations - not what was necessarily aesthetically pleasing. We found that 10-inch drawers seem to be the most useful. Out of the nine base cabinets there are nineteen 10-inch drawers (there is a tray cab with a door, and the sink cab with a trash pullout and a door). We did put a combo of 5-5-10-10 drawers in one cabinet. The 5-inch drawers hold utensils. In fact we just purchased the Ikea bamboo trays for those. As others have done, we also have two 15-inch drawers for appliances. In only one instance do we use an inner drawer. That's the spice drawer where the 10-inch holds the commonly used spices and the inner holds the less often used items. Our rule has always been "open and get", not "open, open, get" - way too inefficient for us ;-) As an aside we found that the Ikea Variera spice trays do not fit neatly in a 24" wide cabinet drawer (which was disappointing). We'll probably end up with non-slip drawer mats.