Question about Ikea cabinets and weight limit for base cabinets
nap101
11 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (15)
PROmodern life interiors
11 years agoiroll_gw
11 years agoRelated Discussions
question about ikea kitchen cabinets
Comments (8)You do not need to hire a custom cabinet maker to do the doors and drawer fronts unless you're having them tack on a few custom cabinets while you're at it (not a bad compromise, actually). You just order your doors from door companies. They're all over, and many custom cabinet makers order THEIR doors as well. Apparently just doors was how Scherr's started. Ikeafans is wonderful. And Ikea has almost as many size options as the other stock cabinet lines, so they really aren't deficient compared to those. I really like Ikea cabinets (and have some that aren't in a kitchen) but the most appealing thing about them is WYSIWYG. If you get a quote from a cabinet store, be it the local Wood-Mode dealer or the Home Depot, you just won't get a line by line price. With Ikea, cabinet x costs exactly X dollars and if it's defective bring it back and we'll get you a new one even if we secretly think YOU broke it. The straightforward pricing is very appealing to some of us who aren't necessarily on a budget but like to know where exactly the money is going. Most DIY cabinets are like this of course, but they don't all have useless diagrams to ignore as you do it. I didn't do Ikea on my last kitchen because I wanted extra deep cabinets (and drawers especially) because it was the only way to expand my kitchen without EXPANDING my kitchen. But I'd do Ikea on my current kitchen so I could do it at my own pace if they hadn't discontinued the Best Ikea Door Ever. (I am not too lazy to assemble my own cabinets but I'm too lazy to custom order doors.)...See MoreWhat are your thoughts on Ikea Sektion base cabinets?
Comments (51)Just chiming in - sorry for the lack of updates! It's been 2 years since our (very stressful!) kitchen renovation, but we're super pleased with how everything turned out. (I know you were asking about laundry-bathroom but just gonna write a general review in case others are interested.) We love our Sektion cabinets; the drawer-in-drawer came in super handy for storing things like medication, manuals/warranties, afternoon tea supplies, and lightbulbs/tools/odds&ends. On our stove side we use that drawer-in-drawer for lesser used or back-up cooking utensils (ice cream scoop, tongs, can opener, tea infuser, etc.). I did map out all of our storage when considering what size drawers/cabinets to get, and most everything fit pretty much as planned. For doors, we went with the Ringhult White. It was the most expensive at the time and made me super nervous, but we bought it during the kitchen sale and all the IKEA showroom staff said this was the top seller and best quality door they had. It also satisfied my need for a 'white-white' door, and provided a reflective surface that would help brighten up our lower level flat. No regrets. Easy to clean, no problems with scratching, steam, moisture, etc. I actually found some doors and drawers in the As-Is section at IKEA, so ended up saving $ by returning the brand new boxes for as-is items that were in perfect condition. (Hint: Even though the blue protective plastic on the doors might be scratched, when peeled off, the foil finish was still perfect / unharmed underneath.) We did have one problem with a faulty faucet leaking into the sink cabinet right after we installed it, unfortunately. This did create a little bit of bubbling in the particleboard but since no one is ever looking into the back of our sink cabinet except for future plumbers, and functionally the cabinet has held up just fine, I don't fault IKEA for this - I think any cabinet would have had some cosmetic damage if someone was pouring a cup of water onto it every night for two weeks. Also, we built all the cabinets and drawers ourselves, and screwed in all the handles as well. Though tedious, after the first few, you get the hang of it. There are a few details to watch out for (like how to position and nail in that plastic 'fat L' piece on the back) but overall this was inconsequential to the final result. Our contractor just helped us hang the cabinets on the wall (since I kept freaking out about how they could possibly stay up under all that weight)! Here are some After photos of our kitchen (a few are focused on the floor since I was writing a (very favorable) review on the wood-look tile we used). Pardon the mess... I wish we could live a Pinterest-worthy minimalist life, but alas... :P. Hope this helps and happy to answer any other questions! _____ P.S. One thing we forgot to get (that the IKEA kitchen staff forgot to tell us about) was the metal countertop support piece: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/70274628/?query=Countertop+support+fixture Most contractors are able to improvise if you forget about this -- we still ended up adding a sheet of plywood under the quartz -- but I think this helps 'lift' the countertop for sink installation and allows the drawers and doors to close properly. We ended up having to drive back to IKEA multiple times just to get enough of this $2.99 FIXA thing :(. My advice is to buy more and return the ones you don't use. Also, some of the hinges were annoying to install (mainly for the sink cabinet because our large sink got in the way) as were the soft-close dampers, but I had my local IKEA Kitchen department on speed dial, and also referenced many many YouTube videos. Good luck!...See MoreCan I hack a trash pull-out from an Ikea 15 inch depth cabinet base
Comments (19)The left is mounted on the side panel and the right is mounted on a special piece that IKEA sold for this application. Don't know if they still sell it, but I'm sure it could be reproduced. The center piece is basically a 1 1/2" piece of MDF that extends the depth of the cab and is secured at the back and front to the bottom of the cab. It functions as a short cab wall and I have a drawer rail mounted on both sides. In your case you could position in where you need to achieve your right wall. I hope I'm explaining this clearly enough, but hope this pic helps. I can take more pix tomorrow if that will help you. IKEA under sink pullouts...See More30 in Whitehaven Sink with Ikea Sektion Base Cabinet
Comments (20)I too want to give a shout out to Kimmy for her detailed instructions. I just installed a whitehaven following them. I will add this the curve for the cutout is 4" so a 4" hole saw on your drill will give you the perfect cut then you can use your circular saw up to the holes on the sides and bottom. I don't own a jig saw so I used the same hole saw that I got to cut my butcher block with a reveal (also 4" obviously). In addition to Kimmy I want to thank Joseph for recommending Pete's sink mount. I realize most on this thread have already installed using Kohler's instructions but Pete's sink mount makes getting everything in and level super easy and you can adjust up or down with the sink in place unlike Kohler's 2x4 method. This is an FYI for anybody that comes upon this thread later. Steve - Ikea sells a kit to attach a door to a drawer that has a template to drill the holes. I realize you don't need the hardware but it might be worth it for the template. https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/00280755/...See Moresteph2000
11 years agobrickeyee
11 years agowritersblock (9b/10a)
11 years agomoomoosmom
11 years agoherbflavor
11 years ago
Matthew Graham
3 years agoBruce
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoIKEA sales -- and the third party kitchen installer -- guaranteed that the Sektion legs would support a stone countertop.
Still, I was not reassured. These are adjustable legs so the legs are not supporting the weight, the screw threads are supporting the weight, and the screw threads are plastic and only a few millimeters deep. A leg failure could cause a countertop crack, shift, or even a fall with the potential for significant injury or foundational damage.
I opted to place a better-rated 2x4 (x 4 ¾) at each of the leg sites; they fit nicely between or in front of each adjoining cabinet. An 8-foot length of 2x4 is rated for 1000 lbs vertical weight load; each block should provide similar support. I employed 22 such woodblocks.
I made sure that the fit was snug but also ensured that the adjacent leg(s) continued to be weight-bearing. Typically, cutting the woodblock within an eighth-inch allowed me to slide the block to such a snug site, somewhere under one of the cabinets. The final woodblocks required an exact fit and I had to plane the length to achieve a snug fit.
See below, and also note the Sektion Leg threads.
Bruce
3 years agojdesign_gw
3 years agoIKEA legs are very flimsy. Not so much of a problem with cabinets against the wall because they hang on the rail. On an island I wouldn’t trust that. They pop out of the base plate too easily. Especially with lateral forces. We always switch out those legs for “real” adjustable legs On the jobs we do. If you are going to add 22 blocks of wood You’re better off just building a platform and setting the cabinets on that.
Photo: IKEA leg on the right. Proper leg on the left.
Port of Indecision
3 years ago
PROJoseph Corlett, LLC
3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago
A properly wall mounted IKEA cabinet needs no legs, regardless of the countertop or backsplash.
Six years ago; I'm sure I would have gotten a callback by now. And no, it's not fastened at the ends either.
Cookie Kelley
2 years ago
Related Stories
WORKING WITH PROSWhat to Know About Working With a Custom Cabinetmaker
Learn the benefits of going custom, along with possible projects, cabinetmakers’ pricing structures and more
Full Story
ORGANIZINGPre-Storage Checklist: 10 Questions to Ask Yourself Before You Store
Wait, stop. Do you really need to keep that item you’re about to put into storage?
Full Story
REMODELING GUIDESConsidering a Fixer-Upper? 15 Questions to Ask First
Learn about the hidden costs and treasures of older homes to avoid budget surprises and accidentally tossing valuable features
Full Story
GREEN BUILDINGConsidering Concrete Floors? 3 Green-Minded Questions to Ask
Learn what’s in your concrete and about sustainability to make a healthy choice for your home and the earth
Full Story
MOST POPULAR8 Questions to Ask Yourself Before Meeting With Your Designer
Thinking in advance about how you use your space will get your first design consultation off to its best start
Full Story
WORKING WITH PROS10 Questions to Ask Potential Contractors
Ensure the right fit by interviewing general contractors about topics that go beyond the basics
Full Story
WORKING WITH PROS12 Questions Your Interior Designer Should Ask You
The best decorators aren’t dictators — and they’re not mind readers either. To understand your tastes, they need this essential info
Full Story
KITCHEN DESIGN9 Questions to Ask When Planning a Kitchen Pantry
Avoid blunders and get the storage space and layout you need by asking these questions before you begin
Full Story
KITCHEN CABINETSKeeping Cabinet Color on the Down Low
Give just base cabinets a colorful coat for a kitchen sporting character and a spacious look
Full Story
MOST POPULAR7 Ways to Design Your Kitchen to Help You Lose Weight
In his new book, Slim by Design, eating-behavior expert Brian Wansink shows us how to get our kitchens working better
Full Story
User