Update: After doing more research on spar varnish and finding the post I will refer to below, I went to my local paint store and had a long talk with the owner about my project. I decided to go with minwax semigloss clear polyurethane and I was advised to use a lambswool device to apply the poly. Then I came home and read your recent posts, Richard - and yes, product I was talking of (the spar varnish) is a quality product but after more reading I just didn't feel right about using it on this table. I also found this thread on "woodjocks" website and found the discussion leading me towards poly even more. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/2565 So, I have a applied one coat of poly with the wool device. I am not sure how I feel about this wool idea - it seems to leave lint behind? I am thinking of switching to a brush, or to disposable foam brushes for the next 3 coats. Any advice on how to proceed from here onto my last coats of poly (even just some encouragement) is appreciated. I'm not sure how I like the semigloss finish - its nice, but I hope it will be waterproof and repellant to dinner sauces, wine, etc. I am also feeling concerned about my work environment. I am working in a free standing garage and the temps are supposed to dip down into 40s this week at night. Will that be a problem in between dry coats of poly? Here is a link that might be useful: thread on spar varnish I found

Several years ago, when we were redoing the basement family room, I repeatedly asked my hubby about running cable outlets. Each time, he said "no, don't bother, the cable is only for the internet service." Of course, shortly after finishing the room, teenage daughter sets up her video game stuff and wants to move the tv to the adjacent wall. Hubby than asks me why if we can put in another cable outlet on that wall. I said sure but that's more money and that's why I asked you that question multiple times. So, he said to me "I know I said that, but why didn't you just do it anyway?" My husband is a consultant...he can think of many different ways to backpedal from a definite answer or to provide a intelligent-sounding meaningless answer to darn near any direct question. One time, my partner attempted to clarify one of his vague points..."So, I understand that you want the gutters to be the top priority, is that right?" "Well, yes, that is important and I would like to have it done soon but there's several other items that need to be done also. I don't think you should stop working on the current items just to get the gutter project finished" As always, it reminds me that the FBI does not have the 21,453 Most Wanted list instead of the 10 Most Wanted list. There's only so much space at the top of the priority list and someone has to make that list.

" Red Oak is open grain and look's better if filled, White Oak is closed grain therefore doesn't require filling." -Wrong, completely 100% false. Both Red and White oak are OPEN grain woods. The grains on white oak are a bit more narrow, but still open. Maple is an example of a closed grain wood. If you take a close up pic of the floor, and post it, i can tell you if its red or white. I post over on the Floors forum all the time, post your question there and receive a lot more help. I personally dont like the varathane products, but thats for a different debate. For the Smoothest results, lightly abrade between EVERY coat. generally a 150 grit paper is fine, can even go 220. two coats in a day is fine. i would try 3 coats total (2 one day, then 1 more the next), and then see how you like the look. if it looks dry or you feel like another is necessary then go ahead. since you plan on staining the floor, do not keep adding coats after coats of stain. it can effect the adhession ability when you go to apply the coats of finish. If you want the stain to come out darker, you have two options, mix the stain with a darker stain, or you can Waterpop your floor. this will help get a more even color throughout the floor and take the stain a bit deeper. The wood filler i would do this, if you prefer to not trowel fill the entire floor during the sanding process, then after you get two coats of finish on the stain, then spot fill the areas you want and then lightly hand sand the fill off...doing this with finish applied will help prevent you from scuffing the stain off the bare wood causing a shading issue.

Looks great! Removing that pot rack made a huge difference and the floors look beautiful. Agree with chocolatesnap though, take everything down from the tops of the cabinets and leave them clean/clear from anything. Platters up there say to me the kitchen lacks the storage to store them and that is NOT what you want buyers thinking when they are standing in your lovely kitchen.