I don’t think that anyone here will give you the okay to do this! It seems it is a big faux pas.

That said, your choice is so different and your home is not open concept, it won’t be terrible.

I love LVP and have Coretec in my Florida home. Coretec has lots of other choices besides planks. There are stone looking tiles as well.

Can you share a photo of your kitchen?

I think it's fine. They are different enough that it doesn't look remotely like a failed match. And it does look pretty good with your cabinets. :)

Are you planning on going on top of the tile? I am not familiar with installing this flooring but don't skimp on the prep work!

First thing: you will rip out the tile. That will give you 3/4" of height = roughly the same height as the wood floor.

Second thing: the tile will be 'cut out' from around the cabinets. You don't have to do anything to the cabs. Leave them there. You won't have any change of height because the old tile = 3/4" (removed) and the new wood = 3/4". Tah Dah! You've exchanged like with like.

Done....like dinner!

If you want to work with vinyl....go for something completely different from the wood. There are some stunning 'travertine' look vinyl tiles. Or something similar.

Remember: the OLD TILE must come out...even if you use vinyl. You will be MISSING 1/2" worth of flooring height because vinyl is (at most) 8mm thick (many are 5mm = even worse) whereas solid hardwood = 19mm thick. The difference = 1/2".

Oh...dear...now what? Well, you will then ADD 1/2" subfloor grade plywood to the kitchen to raise up the subfloor so that you don't have a kitchen floor sitting 1/2" LOWER than your wood. And to be clear, that plywood is NO LONGER $1/sf. It is now $3/sf and CLIMBING! By the time you do all your choosing and all your fixing and all your "hmmming and haaahhhhhing" the price of that plywood could (will by summer) hit $4/sf. Ouch!

The budget for vinyl just grew 3x higher than you thought. Now you are well on your way to having a brand new wood floor in your kitchen.

Let's do the math:

Cost of Vinyl

$8/sf for the vinyl (yep....the 'good stuff' is this high)

$3/sf for the subfloor plywood

MATERIAL costs = $11/sf and NO ONE has swung a hammer!

Cost of Hardwood:

$5/sf narrow strip red oak hardwood 3/4"

$4/sf - $7/sf for labour + staining/finishing (depends on method of install and quality of finish)

TOTAL cost: $9/sf-$12/sf

Hmmm! Look at that!

The demolition and subfloor preparation costs will be the same...so I won't muddy the water with their costs.

Thanks everybody. Here's a pic of the kitchen. The tiles are cemented in and there are two layers of other flooring below them. I've been told by multiple contractors that it would be extremely difficult/expensive to remove all of that without damaging the base cabinets. The LVT is just 5-6 mm thick and doesn't require anything underneath it, which is the only reason it's an option that can be put over the current floor.

My daughter in law also has tile in her kitchen that she hates. Many contractors recommended to install LVT over her tiles as it would be costly to remove the tiles. Contractors are first putting some type of leveling compound to level out the grout dips in her tile. They also are removing all the appliances first and of course removing all the floor moldings.

"The LVT is just 5-6 mm thick and doesn't require anything underneath it, which is the only reason it's an option that can be put over the current floor."

Just make sure the manufacturer signs off on this type of install and you will still have a product warranty in writing as the norm is that would be against their installation guidelines.

I appreciate the advice.

What about a different tile. Something not wood looking.

I could use advice about what kind of "stone" would look good there. It seems that wood (or fake wood) has become the standard for kitchen floors now. There are far more LV planks than tiles available. I'm concerned that if I go for a tile look it will seem outdated. Would love opinions on this!

Don’t really know the style of your kitchen. Maybe a herringbone brick style tile.?

A checkerboard tile? More cafe look...

I think if you can't match the floor with your oak, then go a completely new direction.

I agree with @HU-187528210 -- checkerboard tile! That goes with the age of your house, and it's back in style right now. And it would look so good with your cabinet color. Look for a soft black and a matte finish.

Love the above first picture of the checkerboard. You brought my vision to life lol

Really nice idea but unfortunately they don’t (yet) make those sorts of vinyl click-in tiles. So it’s either stone or wood like. I’m wondering if running the “wood” tiles perpendicular to the real ones in dining room would help.

Bummer. What about something like this or this? Those tiles are all 12x24, but I wonder if you can cut into squares to achieve the look. I don't know enough about it. If not, I think one of the slate colored 12x24 would look nice too.

I'm hearing there are SO many layers on that floor (ahem....would be just ONE layer....just sayin) that you do not want to do anything other than add one more?

Cheap...yes. Good idea? Hell Naw!

This is your home now. You are about to start a group of changes with a kitchen floor. You, and only you, will have to decide to do the APPROPRIATE thing and rip out the tile. OR you will choose to do the cheap option and install another layer of flooring over this 90 year old subfloor.

This is possible to do if you MUST have a new floor TODAY! If this floor is only temporary (1-2 years) then have at it. Do it and rip it out again in 24 months....so you can do it properly in the very near future.

But if you are anchoring your look look for the next 15 years, I recommend you bite the bullet and do what the last 50 years of owners have not....do it right. If you cannot afford to do it properly, then leave the tile and choose another project.

Floors are like roofs. They are expensive, they take huge abuse and yet they set the entire mood of a home. If you want cheap and cheerful for 2 years, then have fun.

Would you put on a THIRD layer on you roof (2 is the max)? Then go ahead with vinyl over tile over three other layers of flooring (2 layers is the max)..

Three layers of flooring and one of them is tile. The floor joists must be groaning.

How to Calculate Floor Load Capacity

(Adding another layer of LVP will add another 2-3# per square foot dead load.)

Luxury vinyl is definetely not your only choice. What does your kitchen look like/ colors/style. Do you have more pics?

I'm wondering if a change in the lighting would help you like the tiles that you have, since you are budget-limited at this time and your options are so limited. I know cameras and monitors change the look, but your kitchen has an overall pinkish undertone it seems to me in all of your photos.

I'm not a lighting expert by any means, but I know that just changing bulbs can make a huge difference.

Not what you asked, but if you want to see some nice LVP stone-look product, check out Shaw Journey Tile. I used this in my new build. There are about a dozen patterns and I thought it looked better than any others I checked out.

shaw lvt 0494V journey tile kingsport - Google Search · More Info

I deeply appreciate everyone’s thoughtful advice about whether vinyl is the way to go. I am reconsidering! Now I’m hoping for equally insightful opinions on the design question. If I start over completely with the kitchen floor I’ll need to decide whether I can install wood in the kitchen that’s different from the preexisting oak in the dr and lr.My home is definitely not open flow— there is a clear separation (doorway and saddle) between both of these rooms and the kitchen. In other words what would you think of a “real” wood that looked similar to the vinyl I chose?

Get ready to gasp everybody...how about sheet vinyl? It comes in all sorts of patterns these days, looks way better than in the 70s, and doesn't weigh much compared to anything else, and it isn't very thick. And it doesn't have grout to get dirty.

What about linoleum? It would be period appropriate and wouldn't conflict with the oak.

The visual of having a WHITE wide plank (possibly rustic) wood up against a narrow strip BROWN wood is a clash all by itself.

The pale, white/lavender colours will clash with rusty/brown. I always ask people if they would add a pale/pink/lavender blouse to a rust coloured pair of paints....Right. Not a look most people would consider a 'good look'.

The colours are an issue AND the wide plank vs. narrow strip is another issue. And the photo of the CUT of the LVP (the wood cut is how the swirls of the wood appear on the surface) is another issue.

So to recap: we have a colour clash, we have a PLANK WIDTH clash and a 'cut' clash. I'm sorry but the truth is you have chosen a product that just will not work.

The BEST option = slate. Why do I say that? Because you have a DARK counter top. You can mirror the 'dark counters + dark flooring'. It is a SUPER SIMPLE way to 'dress' your kitchen.

Think of the counter tops as your belt, the lower cabs as your pants and the dark floors as your shoes. The upper cabs are your blouse. If you walked out the door with an outfit like that on, you would look very, very sharp.

I'm seeing the backsplash in a mini-brick look. Why not pull a warm tone from THAT so that you have a floor + backsplash compliment. The backsplash offers many tones that will WORK with the orange rust in the rest of your house.