This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

mongo, do you think strandwoven would work well in a 3/4 bath (the shower not used all that much, but is used some)? I saw it put into a primary bath on HGTV and thought it might be the answer to our problems. But a question re any bamboo: what do you do with the spaces between the planks? Water can get down there, can't it, even if it's pulled tight? I was thinking strandwoven, with the high resin content, would be less permeable in general, but water could still get *between* the planks...and we have vinyl in that bathroom now, which I'd love to leave down and just put the wood over (with an extra layer in between)...

So, the cedar planks were put in around the vanity. Mmmm, makes you wonder why the walls were covered in the first place. That is probably a 'warning' that what is behind there ain't good ... I would still remove all the planking. A claw hammer and some gloves will do it. There will probably be glue behind them too in big splotches. I had a similar cedar room in my old house that was a hot tub room (arch opening covered with a storm door with sidelights -- no kidding). After I removed the cedar -- the walls were stucco'd but with nicks, glue, dents, nail holes from the cedar, blah blah. I skim coated the walls with joint compound and smoothed it out with a damp brush as I went (swirling motions). Then a faux finished the wall. Looked great (see photo). Bottom line ... after you get your cedar off you can survive even the toughest underlayment. It will open up many possibilities. Here is my X-cedar-room, that had crappy walls.

Well, Missy........you already know the mantra.....you can do anything you want, and you should do what works best in your own home for your own lifestyle. I leave my toaster and my coffeemaker and my knife block on my very small kitchen counters, even though decorating rules state very clearly that these things should be put away for beauty. I need my coffee, to reach for a knife, (to kill the rats in my kitchen!) and DH only cooks toast, so he needs that toast-cooker out! But there are quite a few paints that clean up quite nicely in lesser sheens than semigloss. I have satin on my bathroom walls and really would rather even have eggshell. Love the flatter finish and would rather cope with the cleaning. I don't think you have to do the semi to get a good wall finish. I even like the Ace Sensations Matte flat finish, it is now in my kitchen and wipes off nicely. Of course, I have a real backsplash so don't have to worry too much, but over by my trash can, there can be some cleanup issues where I think my DD probably throws coffee grounds against the wall! Keep in mind that you have a mess on a flat finish. Even upgrading your finish just a little will relieve that. And you are using mascara. Good for you! I think all is forgiven in pursuit of facial beauty! Red