Transition strip for sliding doors? Baseboard problem. Pics included.
prius2ny
3 years ago
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3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoprius2ny
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Small entry area: ideas? (pics included)
Comments (22)Thanks so much for the feedback! It seems there are two schools of thought: keep it simple b/c there's already a lot going on vs. add extra table etc. I'm still waffling about the shelf, myself! :-) I like the idea of adding a mirror because it will probably help to brighten the space. Also, I could easily check how I look (or whatever) before heading out instead of running down to the bathroom (nearest mirror). Re: the tape--> It's the blue tape from when they textured and painted the wall. I would take it off except we need to re-texture part of it again. teacats--> which wall are you referring to--the wall closest to the door or the wall more recessed from the front door (I think the first wall I see is the recessed wall)? I COMPLETELY agree about the clock. I've never found anything I like so I just keep the old clock. Also, a bigger clock would be easier to read :-) mjlb--> you're right about all the moulding etc; I'm looking for a cheap fix though, so painting out the doors is probably what I'll do for now. We do have to replace the closet door b/c it has a hole in it so that will be the time for the moulding. All our old interior door mouldings match the closet but whoever put in the new front and garage doors changed it. evaperconti--> I like your idea about the console table w/bench underneath and a chair by the door. I've been scanning Craigslist but, so far, nothing. Plant won't work, unfortunately, but I could try for some other vertical element. So many great ideas!!! You guys have given me a lot to think about and helped me to see the entry a little differently. Thanks so much :-)...See MoreLaminate flooring, avoid transition strip in long span
Comments (18)I did both. I was taught by an installer how to flush cut the flooring to butt up against the tile, which did have an edge strip, with a 1/16th (I think, it’s been almost 2 years) gap and silicone caulk. I hated it because the flooring is matte and I couldn’t find a caulk that wasn’t shiny so it left an obvious shiny line between the tile and the laminate flooring. I replaced it with a transition strip. I do remember messing with the strip to making it as flush as possible between the two different floorings, I think we had to modify the metal piece inside or route one side deeper. keep in mind all of this was DIY and with proper planning by a pro installer the different floor levels are taken into account. I changed my mind and decided to tile the powder room when the flooring was already in. Also, in this scenario the ends are supposed to be sealed and caulked beneath the transition strip in a powder room application, even if it isn’t “wet,” like with a shower or bathtub. That was so deep in the specifications for the flooring we almost missed it. I did not use a transition strip by the front door. I intended to, just to be cautious since we spanned a greater distance, but I hated how the strip looked. Next to the threshold the caulk is invisible, even though it’s shiny. We were pressed on time and budget because it was a new home without any closet shelves, garage storage, or landscaping. The idea of replacing the carpet that was falling apart (after less than a year) with more of the same carpet by the builder was discouraging to me, so we really couldn’t do anything differently. But in a more predictable world, if I could have wrangled a couple thousand more, I have done a simple, not engineered, hardwood and installed it ourselves. The laminate has not had any issues at all as far as buckling or drifting. It’s on our main floor and the only place with an issue is where my kids drop ice cubes on the floor in the same spot and don’t pick them up. There isn’t any swelling or peeling but there is a thin line where you can see the composite is a different color. This is not in an area with a long span. The LVP with equivalent numbers of pieces were 2-3 times as expensive....See MoreFlooring for in front of french door/ soon to be sliding door??
Comments (8)Sina is correct regarding basic laminate. Cheap laminate won't hold up. You have to get the better quality. I used a moisture resistant and scratch resistant laminate at my front entry and it is holding up nicely. The upgraded laminate is still cheaper than I high end wood floor. the 5'x5' area that I did cost me around $100. That included the flooring and the transition strips. The flooring already had the padding on it. If you buy flooring without the pad/ backing you will have to buy it separately. I got my flooring at Home Depot on sale at 50% off as it was special order that someone didn't pick up. Shop around for deals and specials like open box or special orders that weren't picked up. If you are a member of Sams, BJs, or Costco, a lot of times I have found clearance laminate deals....See MoreTile falls at higher level than sliding patio doors
Comments (23)Thank you guys! @SJ McCarthy , I think this terrazzo is made with concrete and not epoxy. I’m also looking at another brand of terrazzo, which might be epoxy. These are 1/8” lower (1/2” as opposed to 5/8”). I’ll know more tomorrow. I’ve also seen some in resin? I’m still hoping the porcelain tiles will work, but having trouble finding any that aren’t a 3 month wait and I’m not finding any that I like as much as the terrazzo options. Thank you for the link. Those tiles are beautiful! I dont think I will do the Matt but it is a very good idea and I will keep it in mind for the front door Thanks @hallettco! I agree with you! Plus I have a 4” gap between the slider and the outside patio that people have to step over to get in....See Moremillworkman
3 years agoprius2ny
3 years agoprius2ny
3 years agoprius2ny
3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago
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