Most manufactures rate their bulbs in the amount of time it takes for the output to drop to about 60% of a new bulb. Usually this is about 9000 hours of use. This doesn't mean that the bulb for your pond needs to be changed at 9000 hours. Let me give you a couple examples. Lets say you have a light that is rated for a 2500 gallon pond and 9000 hours of use and you have a 2500 gallon pond. Then at the end of 9000 hours you should change the bulb. Now lets say you have the same UV light but your pond is only 1200 gallons. In this case you could probably go close to 18000 hours on the bulb. I know you are saying how is this possible because the bulb is wore out after 9000 hours. Well at the end of 9000 hours it can handle a 2500 gallon pond but your pond is 1200 gallons and because it is smaller it only takes 30% of what a new bulb will give you which is half of what a 60% bulb will give you. Now to confuse you a little this only true if you have a flow rate half of what the max flow rate for the UV. But with the UV being twice the size that is needed than the lower flow rate will work just fine. The only problem is the bulb may burn out before that many hours are on the bulb. Mike

Corrie, Here is another advert I just read re: eliminating chloramine: Removing Chloramines from Water Chloramine, which consists of a mixture of chlorine and ammonia, is added to the water of many cities as a substitute for free chlorine. It is often referred to in the plural, as "chloramines," because it can take on a number of forms according to the pH and mineral content of the water. The whole reduction discussion for chloramines can become quite complex, but the main thing you need to know is that chloramine is removed from water with essentially the same strategies that are used to remove chlorine. This means that carbon filtration is the best removal method, and, contrary to urban legends, filter carbon does indeed remove chloramine. The problem is that it takes more carbon and more contact time to do the job. In practical terms this means that if your city disinfects your tap water with chloramines youÂll need to get a larger and better carbon filter than you would need if chlorine alone were used. For drinking water you can consider high quality carbon units like Multi-Pure, or double and triple units that use lots of carbon. And, contrary to another widely promoted myth, reverse osmosis units do remove chloramine. In fact, they do it well, because any good RO unit contains a couple of carbon filters and the water gets an extra slow pass through the first one. In choosing carbon for chloramine removal, a specially prepared carbon called "catalytic" carbon is far superior to regular carbon. Catalytic carbon is a specifically processed grade of filter carbon that is designed especially for, among other things, exceptional chloramine removal. Your thoughts?? Raybo

I've seen too much damage caused by homemade plant food and homemade disease treatments to be able to recommend anything. Compost is great but you should let it biodegrade a bit before using it. Hot compost can damage plants, but you don't have to wait until it's completely finished to use it. With experience, you'll get the hang of knowing when compost is ready to be used. It is probably the single best thing you can do for the soil, but it is a gradual and ongoing process. If your soil previously contained a thriving community of weeds, you probably have all the important nutrients required. Most plants don't need much in the way of nutrients when you first plant them; they will spend the first couple of weeks or so getting situated in their new home. If they don't start growing right away, don't think it is due to the soil or a lack of nutrients. They need to get established. Some plants will get acclimated faster than others, but it's not necessarily a sign that you need to add fertilizer. The best thing to do - when you can afford to do so -- is to get a comprehensive soil test. Most folks live near Cooperative Extension offices or universities that do that sort of thing. It isn't free (here they are around $25 or $30, depending on the number of things you want tested) and it can take a few weeks to get the results, but it will remove the guesswork as to what's needed, if anything. Worst-case scenario: get an inexpensive, all purpose, water soluble fertilizer, such as MiracleGro, Peter's, or any other brand you like and keep it handy just in case you need it. A small package can be had for $12 or less, will keep for a long times as long as the contents don't get wet, and these fertilizers contain all the macro and micro nutrients that plants need. This would be almost impossible to duplicate on your own. You're off to a good start. You may not necessarily need fertilizer, at least not at first. Scratch in some compost as it becomes available. When you have the funds get a good soil test from professionals (lots of the kits you can buy at the garden center are notoriously inaccurate). If you can borrow one of those little Mantis tillers, electric or gas, they are great at busting up soil and loosening the rocks.

If it is the same formula from a year or so, the Clorox wipes actually have NO BLEACH in them at all if you are thinking if the bleach might harm the granite. I needed a bleach in a wipe at that time and I just assumed it did and was quite surprised when it did not. So it is probably safe since it (still?..check the ingredients to be sure) does not contain actual bleach. There was even small print on the label that says it did not contain bleach. Not sure what kind of 'disinfectant' it was or if it would have a reaction to your stone and/or sealer, so testing what you have is probably the best solution.