I've also painted old stained trim with no regrets. I did not strip it all (tried at first, but it was very aged and too difficult even with chemical strippers and heat guns!)- I simply sanded and used high quality Ben Moore primer and paint with excellent results. I personally much prefer white-painted trim to stained, UNLESS the house is of unusually high build quality. I come from a family of architects so am probably a bit overly-sensitive to proportion and design, so YMMV... but I feel like stained trim really calls attention to each element: doors, windows, baseboards, crown moldings are all brought into high contrast with stain and their placement and proportions become important design elements in a room. If they were well and thoughfully designed originally, that can be a beautiful thing. If not -I'd paint them. Our last house was a 1926 Foursquare. it was definitely much better built than most homes today, however, it was probably a Sears kit house originally, basically a builder-home from that era. i.e. not architect-designed like the previous Victorian I'd lived in. It had stained fir trim (with nice details) throughout, and DH and our friends thought I was crazy to paint it. Guess what? The house looked SOOO much better after I did. It actually became a much classier-looking house. The dark wood around doors and windows -which had been placed pragmatically rather than for aesthetics- made the house seem a bit akward. The white paint allowed the really GREAT elements in the house, like it's gorgeous birch floors, ample sunlight and great "flow", to really shine. Just my 2 cents!

The problem with doing touch ups or partially doing an area, is that it tends to make everything else dingy. From the standpoint of labor, it is also disproportionately labor intensive. You still have to protect the whole room, even if you decide not to do the ceilings, for example. Similarly, it is far easier and time efficient to do the woodwork before the walls, whether spraying or brushing the woodwork. Were I trying to save money, I would opt to do one or two rooms completely, rather than to do the whole house incompletely.

Would you mind sharing why you have a paint crush on the Break-through by PPG?? ProClassic satin (Extra White) is actually gorgeous and I love it. But BM Advance and SW ProClassic both take hours in between coats. My son, Jake, is doing the painting for me while he's home from college for the summer and he prefers to spray early morning and let it dry overnight. He's sanding between coats of primer and first coat of finish because the cabinets are old with rough spots. Sanding between coats helps a lot so it's totally worth the extra work. ProClassic takes a good 14 days to cure out so you can get a feel (literally) for the final finish and color; when it's fully "cooked" I like it a lot. But it's a slow process to get there with both brands (BM and SW) and the first day I didn't care for the chalky finish but that quickly changed as the paint cured. Break-Through is different you can sand/recoat in two hours and cures to final appearance within maybe 2-3 days or so. All of them sprayed, rolled, leveled nicely for us. We are not using a professional grade sprayer, just something we picked up at Lowe's. I have nothing bad to say about the paint BM or SW at all. Break-Through just dries and cures faster. ProClassic satin the is "prettiest" IMO but I'm super critical and it's not enough of a difference to sacrifice the chunk of time it requires to get to that pretty final finish - I just haven't had the extra time to spare with my recent projects so Break-Through has been a good solution. When I spec color for homeowners most painters around here spray lacquer with pro grade sprayers and it's a whole, huge production with masking and paper and tape.... and it stinks. We don't have the bandwidth or space to go that route. With Break-Through you have to wipe up any spills or splatter immediately because once it dries, it's not coming off - kind of wicked and unforgiving in that way.

Take one interior door off its hinges at a time and remove the door knobs and any locks as you paint each one so you can paint all the edges without painting the hardware. Consider stainless steel hinges and door knobs if they are to be replaced (especially for the bathroom and laundry where there will be moisture).. If you are painting the exterior doors and/or storm door frames, Rust O'leum 2x spray dries quickly and you can apply a couple of coats in one long sunny day but you will need really good ventilation for spray paint. As long as you are healthy, no vertigo or dizziness, you might want to pick up a sturdy ladder and try painting the house yourself, one room at a time. If you're painting the ceiling, you could use a roll brush on a long handle. Make sure the walls and kitchen cabinets are really clean if/when you paint them so the paint can go on smoothly. Paint (other than ceiling paint) will NOT hide any imperfections so fix any wall damage issues before beginning painting that wall. ... and wear comfortable clothes you don't mind tossing, including a headscarf. If you're going to try to remove paint from anything you didn't intend for it to be on, do so while the paint is still wet.