Without reading thru the comments I wanted to give my thoughts as a decorative finish artist for anyone who finds this thread (I apologize if someones already mentioned these things).. The OP has a great eye! She knew the green undertone would be required to offset her countertops (vs a cooler blue tone). This is very important on large scale installs (like cabinets) & her requested finish IS possible. Wood can be finished to almost any color/type finish with the right products and/or combination of such. Wood toner can be used as the base coat to set the tone & a grey pigmented stain or lacquer applied over top. Its similar to the way color correction is done with makeup; the correction color is applyed before concealer or foundation and virtually disappears but the undertone works to cancel problem areas...same principal applies here! The type of wood used is just as important as the undertone. Every wood has natural coloring that develops over time w/ exposure to air & UV rays. If popular or ash is used the green tone will become stronger as the cabinets age and darken, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing..depends on personal taste’s. If your cabinet maker doesn’t have a speciality finisher in house you can contract finishing to someone who works in the fine woodworking, finish carpentry, or decorativing painting industry. Basically- anyone who knows color theory AND various wood qualities.

So excited..ready to order my cabinets..I decided on Hearthstone perimeter cabinets and walnut Island clear stain sable glaze..the 2 square tiles are Caesarsone pebble and Bianco Drift long tile is a sample of the floor tile I will be using but in 12x24 size

I read Dan's question about the stiles as being rhetorical - you don't ever see stiles with the grain running sideways because the long pieces of cabinetry and furniture go with the grain, not against it (unless of course you're trying to use more material than necessary). To my eye, it would look strange and unsettling. I have mocked it up in my woodshop but have never wanted to build a door that way. True Shaker style shows vertical wood grain in both the door stiles and the face frame stiles. To insert a door panel with horizontal grain would make the cabinet surface look busy and interrupted. Horizontal grain on doors is a more contemporary look, and it does not fit with the more traditional Shaker profile. If slab doors don't go with the style of your home, then horizontal grain in cabinet doors will probably not fit with it either. All of that said, do what you love. If you're trying to make your kitchen integrate with the style of your home, consider that horizontal grain in Shaker cabinets will make quite a statement.

You can do a search on this forum for "Shower waterproofing" and read what the pros have to say when people are having trouble with their showers, and you will learn a lot. The search box is at the top of the page. You may not understand how water gets in back of the tiles that are installed and grouted unless you know that grout is not waterproof. That is why the surface behind the tile must be waterproofed. Water should evaporate again, once the shower is not i use, or the shower system should have weep holes in the drain that allow any drips behind the tile to go down the drain. If there is not waterproofing, then the cement board (or improperly used drywall) behind the tile gets wet. If there is direct contact with wood, then it soaks up the moisture and voila! you have mold and rot. If you have water proofing and Creative Tile Eastern CT is right and it is a glazing issue with your tile, it may be that you have good waterproofing behind it. The bad news is that removing the defective tile will likely ruin the waterproofing. So read up on waterproofing and understand how it is supposed to be done (there are several methods) so that you can discuss it with the person you hire to replace the shower. Many, many handymen and even bathroom contractors do not use approved methods. Reading those threads you search for here will help you with the education you are going to need to have this fixed right. I might start by contacting the tile manufacturer and sending them photos and asking if they are having issues with their tile glazing. Pros here often recommend that you hire someone who is a member of the Tile Council of North America (TCNA) to assess the problem. Go read some threads and you will catch on to how it all works.