This is a tough question because you will be making hundreds of trade off decisions before you are firm on what you want. By example, you may have the cabinetry picked out in your minds eye right now, but once you see options in the showroom or begin selecting appliances and fixtures the dimensions may all change. Assuming for the moment that you are starting from scratch, I would suggest you take a copy of your house print with you when you discuss your options with the respective sales ppl. While that print will not reflect the exact cabinet you will end up with, it will give a good indicator of how much space is alloted for each fixture and from that they should be able to offer you some options to choose from. I think you will find yourself going back and forth numerous times between the cabinets, fixture suppliers, appliance dealers, lighting experts and your framing contractor before you end up with a final workable plan. Just remember, that at this stage of the game you are only making a wish list, not signing a final contract.

I have used AS chalk paint on several pieces. At first it was to see what the excitement was all about, and I bought only sample jars when they were much less expensive than they are now. The sheen is VERY FLAT, and personally, I don't care for it without wax. I have not bought the AS waxes, but I have Butcher's Wax in clear, and Briwax in both light brown and dark brown. All of them protect and (to me) enhance the appearance of the chalk paint. This was a black and gold CL mirror that I did in blues and grays in AS chalk paint. I then used Briwax in dark brown to get into the carvings and add a bit of sheen to the mirror. BEFORE - AFTER - I experimented last year with a maple bureau that I bought from Craigslist. I put on patches of several colors (both chalk paint and regular latex in different brands). What I found was that the chalk paint stuck to the unsanded finish like glue. When I made my decision to go with a chalk paint color, I found that I could easily remove the latex paints by just running my fingernail over them. THAT is what I like about the chalk paints on furniture vs. the other types. This is the bureau that I mentioned above, still in progress. I used AS Paris Gray, and I am decoupaging fabric to the drawer fronts. In order to preserve the color match between paint and fabric here, I will use the butcher's wax in clear when I finish this one. I am replacing the knobs with chunky 'English style' knobs that I have painted in the AS Paris Gray. And before I started it, in the seller's garage -

I have just installed verde butterfly in my major kitchen remodel and everyone including all my subs has commented on how beautiful my kitchen turned out. I have KraftMaid cabinets in autumn blush which are in between a light and dark finish and this was the only granite that I fell in love with the moment I saw it. It just tied the whole room together while giving it some contrast. As far as keeping it clean, I have not noticed any finger prints whatsoever, but I do see water standing where I have splashed which is no different than any other counter material I have had in the past. The fabricator is giving you a snow job, get another one. There are alot of so called fabricators out there that do not know what they are doing. I suspect he wants you to buy a more costly piece of granite, as times are getting tougher for people. I love love love mine. I say go for it!

Defy the laws of physics? Wow, you really all that from my comments? I agree I wrongfully used the generic term 'Enamel' to describe 'a hard surfaced paint' (not in its chemical properties) as a layperson can generally identify with this term. Chipping/cracking, etc. In fact, even traditional oil based paint companies have adopted the term (go to Lowes and see the 'enamel' terminology on oil based and latex paints - they are not really enamels either, now are they?) simply to insinuate 'hardness'. I should have said 'Enamel-like' and I appreciate you calling me on it. I certainly need to be better about being clear on these forums and will try to bone up on the chemical properties of different finishes so I do not mislead anyone. You have obvious experience and I apologize if my comments offended you as those of a 'sales guy'. I will say, it is somewhat circular logic to expect someone who has years of experience working, selling and servicing a company and its product to weigh in with criticism. If I were critical of them or their product, I would not sell it and therefore could not comment with any certainty at all. I have personally had a terrific experience and I have seen their product resist cracking when many other cabinet companies I sold exhibited it to a MUCH higher degree. Call 'hype'. Call it whatever you want. Its my experience and logically, I can only offer opinion based on my experience. The fact that I have dropped every other line of cabinets we sell and have focused on only Conestoga in the past several years should speak to what I have found to be true. It is a great finish and seemed to hide or minimize the cracking so prevalent on painted doors. I therefore can spend far more time working with my customers versus replacing faulty product or doing the 'two step' to avoid their wrath when their doors crack and chip, but they 'singed a waiver'. Yes, its a really good product and I enjoy standing behind it because it is easy to do so. If you have found a process that is guaranteed not to crack, bully for you. That is truly awesome. That company should take the market by storm. For the rest of us who are clearly inferior in our understanding of the basics of wood, finish technology and the marketplace, I can only offer that I personally think Conestoga is a great alternative. Have a terrific Sunday, all!