Haworthians! (Part 12, new 2021 remastered )
In honor of bikerdoc who drop-kicked me into growing haworthias seriously, I invite you to revive this show. We all know how these threads work, so I will start with this Tsurupika Green, one of Renny Wong's cultivars.
Comments (105)
Pagan
2 years agoHoward! I have missed you and your haworthias. There's one rosette there I would love to adopt lol
Anyway, by diameter, this one is my biggest. I have it labeled "nameless hybrid, Renny #2". This one really is 10 cm across.
And emerging as one of my prettiest, H. emelyae var campotiana (GM266)
I wish I had a H. mirabilis. Last one on my wish list, I think; although I haven't updated that list in a while.
bikerdoc5968 Z6 SE MI
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Haworthians Page 7
Comments (304)In_awe - My 2xT5HO were 4" away from my plants. They did very well with 10000 lumens at that height. I do agree that lumens aren't a very good measure, lux/fc are better, and PAR is the best. One problem I find with a single number for measuring output is that light distribution with T5HO and LED lights is not uniform. Light distribution end to end and from center to sides is quite important to me because I have a limited grow area. My target light level is 24 PAR DLI for my high light succulents and 10 PAR DLI for my Haworthia. Roughly that's 1200-3000 fc, depending on the plant. Some of my Haworthia only need 250-500 fc. Required light levels differs significantly. In general, I've found truncata/emelyae/hard-leaved species to be quite resilient and take a lot of light. Obtusa/retusa are middlish. Picta and springbok don't like it too bright and marxii pretty much stay in the shade. I'm curious to hear other's experience with this! If you're looking to increase your light levels to get more colourful Haworthia, the two easiest ways are decreasing fixture height slightly or increasing the duration the are on. Pagan - Good luck with your experiment! If you don't already have a fc/lux meter, $10 on ebay is well worth it for purely relative light measurements. Nil - I already have a PAR meter and two lux meters (one is owned by my work), but for curiosity's sake I've contacted my local Apogee dealer to see how much they are charging for the SQ-520. Hopefully will hear back from them tomorrow. Think I need to do some more overtime to pay for all these toys!...See MoreHaworthians! (Page 11)
Comments (116)Seems it's been awhile since someone posted but I think it's time to knock a bit of the rust off. H. mirabilis var. mirabilis (Bayer) or H. joleneae (Hayashi) on 04.14.22 The same plant on 01.28.23 And here's my H. truncata x maughanii on 01.10.22 shortly after i got it from a friend who was moving. And here it is on 01/08/2023 Once it grows out of those more stretched out, yellow-ish leaves it'll be looking pretty good. Not bad for a years worth of growth, at least for me....See More2021 New Year New Beginnings Seed Swap
Comments (181)Mountain Lake Corner have you received your seeds??? I pm’d your tracking Number. Let me know please. Glad you all are enjoying your seeds. I am going thru postage and will be contacting those with left over postage this week. I will be having another swap in August. Here is my email if you wanna contact me mcc371@ and gmail.com Hope you all have a blessed year. Happy Gardening, Tammy...See MoreThe Current 2021 Lawn and Garden Tractor Market-My Observations
Comments (0)This post got started when a member responded to a previous post of mine and she told me of her frustrations with her tractor and how her son has had to keep it running on the small farm they own, with much doctoring. She has a 2013 Husqvarna YT46LS with a Kawasaki 600 and Tuff Torq K46, 1,300 hrs on it. No complaints with the motor or transaxle. Her complaints were in how flimsy the construction has always been, the parts that are superseded that are supposed to fit but don’t, and very little confidence in the manufacturer in general. To top the cake in troubles and fixes, she described in detail how after the 5th starter that didn't work, how it would get stuck in the down position was finally remedied by a piece of metal from a coke can, needless to say, they are both done with the little tractor. I was eventually asked for an opinion on what tractor she should be looking at because she was done with this one and didn’t want all the constant little problems. She just wanted a little tractor that would work reliably and operate as if someone had cared about what they built. This is the eternal quest for the holy grail of lawn tractors that the forums are full of. I started to look at the current market and realized how bad it was and seems to be getting worse. Her goal was to keep around a 46" mowing deck size so that is what I based my search and observations on, and I thought others here might be able to benefit also. So the question, I'm in the market for a lawn tractor, what should I buy? This is my response to her, The 2013 YT46LS has the Tuff Torq K46 Transaxle and the Kawasaki FR600V series engine. The Kawasaki FR600V did have a pull start option or conversion. The Tuff Torq K46 is in the residential class and not rated for much more than mowing grass on relatively flat ground, yet it still works with all the things you have described to me that you use your tractor for. You really did get your moneys worth out of it from my point of view. The Kawasaki engine is the best part of that tractor in my opinion and I would give weight in that direction on your next tractor. The question of recommend is difficult without knowing what goes into the answer because a lot comes down to expectations, but I'll give it a try. My answer is at the bottom if you want to skip the details. In the lawn and Garden category according to OPEI (Outdoor Power Equipment Institute) there are only two official categories of residential tractors. Lawn Tractor or LT: "Rear-Engine Riding Mowers and Front-Engine Lawn Tractors are self-propelled riding vehicles generally designed for mowing lawns. Nearly 50% of rear-engine riding mowers are used for lawns 1/2 to 1 acre in size, while lawn tractors are generally used for areas larger than one acre. Although both may offer options such as sweeper or snow thrower attachments, they are not powerful enough to pull a plow." Garden Tractor or GT: "Garden Tractors are designed to supply sufficient power for home lawn, garden and yard attachments: moldboard plows, tillers, cultivators, snow throwers, sweepers, leaf mulchers, etc. Fifty percent of garden tractors are used for areas larger than two acres" Every other category are produced by the manufacturer as sales aids and brand garnish, but not an actual class of tractor and all that applies. One of my favorite examples are the LGT or "Light Garden Tractor". This would seem like you are getting a Garden Tractor and what that implies. You are not. They will lack something in one of the three categories for "ground engagement work" such as a sufficient Engine (lots of HP), a sufficient chassis (possibly a "C" channel or welded chassis) but give the Tuff Torq K46 transaxle (the K46 is not designed for ground engagement work). It's clever but all advertising. The other one that is common is the YT or Yard Tractor. This is to up-sell a lawn tractor as more rugged than just mowing lawns but not quite capable of GT work. If we look at your current tractor (YT46LS) you got an upgrade in the motor with a very durable Kawasaki motor and a "C" channel chassis that is proven strong, but you have a Tuff Torq K46 transaxle. It's clever of the manufacturers and they like to confuse the purchase with things that don't really matter. This is why I keep things grounded with the fact that there are only 2 classes of tractors according to the industry standard in North America, the Lawn Tractor and the Garden Tractor, and what is reasonable to expect from them and why. The current market has become worse than when you last purchased with fewer real choices and sales around building disposable flimsy machines. I will start at our typical box store, because they offer the cheapest prices and most availability usually, with 5 actual brands of lawn tractors, and regardless of advertising, I haven't found one box store that offers an actual, qualified Garden Tractor (they may claim it, but only Dealers offer true GT's). This means when you go to the box store, you should know it's a lawn tractor you are looking at. Knowing this should simplify your purchase to things like deck size and premium motors such as a Kawasaki versus Briggs and Stratton or Kohler, or your favorite color. I can only give MSRP, but here we go, 1) Craftsman T140 MSRP $1,699.00. 18.5hp Briggs and Stratton motor, MTD's standard "C" channel chassis, 46" mowing deck, Tuff Torq K46 Transaxle. 2) Husqvarna YTH22V46 MSRP $1,899.99. 22HP Briggs and Stratton motor, Has the same "C" channel chassis you have right now, 46" mowing deck, Tuff Torq K46 transaxle. (In 8 years, nothing has really changed) 3) John Deere E150 MSRP $1,379. 22HP John Deere Branded motor (possible Briggs?) "C" channel chassis, 48" mowing deck (they are not offering 46" anymore), Tuff Torq K46 transaxle. (Box store Deere is a real Deere just fewer selections than at a Dealer). 4) Cub Cadet XT1 Enduro LT MSRP $2,099. 22 HP Kohler 7000 motor, standard MTD "C" channel chassis, 46" mowing deck, Tuff Torq K58 transaxle- this is a sizable upgrade at the top of the residential class, but "ground engagement' qualified starts at K62, K66, K72, or K92 according to Tuff Torq. 5) Troy Built Super Bronco XP 46 MSRP $2,099. 22HP Kohler 7000 motor, standard MTD "C" channel chassis, 46" mowing deck, Tuff Torq TL-200 transaxle (less than your current K46! a lessor transaxle than the K46). The residential class of Tuff Torq starts at TL-200, K46, K57, K58 and in that order. 6) Poulan Pro seems to only sell 42" decks for 2021. (they are Husqvarna anyway, not a contender in this class) Now for the brands with actual Dealers and service for tractors verses zero turns. 1) Husqvarna, they have models only available at the Dealer, the brand code will be a "D" as in GT48DXLS verses GT48XLS. 2) Cub Cadet/Yanmar Dealers. 3) Simplicity Tractors. (Snapper is the Simplicity Regent?) 4) John Deere (if it's at the box store you can buy direct from the Dealer). 5) Kubota lawn and Garden tractors. Husqvarna quickly, I don't trust them and I'm willing to show through there own words and adverts to include vendor deception and warranty deception with the now close to 30GB of data on them I have, but when requested for specific purposes. I would only recommend them to the project builder that wants to build a great GT out of a cheap package like I did, knowing they won't have a warranty up front, but that's the only way. Cub Cadet, is an MTD brand like Craftsman, troy Built, and some store brands, but Cub Cadet is the premium line. They offer one model of actual Garden Tractor with the Hydro Gear BDU-10 transaxle that is very good, and very maintainable, the XT3 is only available from a Dealer. If you have a Dealer in your area I recommend looking at the difference between the XT2 and XT3 for your needs. My question with them will be in how long parts are supported. I believe (not fact) that parts are supported longer than any brand at a box store but not as long as the top 3 brands of lawn and garden tractors. XT3 GSX MSRP$5,599. 25HP Kohler Command series (the command series has a very good reputation like Kawasaki), 54" mowing deck? Fully welded chassis, a real bargain in the Garden Tractor class. The BDU-10 has a rear axle that rivals the Tuff Torq K72 at 30MM or 1 and 1/4" in diameter axles and differential lock for traction under a load- drive shaft driven with belts. That brings me to the top of the chain in every way. These Dealers give the specs to safely use ground engagement implements on their GT's, and only these three brands, that's a big deal, and honest in my opinion. John Deere. I can get parts manuals and parts for tractors that are 30 years old +. They are more expensive, but there is peace of mind in owning a Deere when they expect you to maintain them for decades in some models and not just throw them away. John Deere customers are usually very satisfied with there product. John Deere is the only one I know that has a special Tuff Torq K46 HD? that is maintainable, just for them ordered specific from Tuff Torq with drain bolts. Since you have a farm and want actual reliable service from your tractor, in John Deere I recommend their X series, at minimum the X300 but the X500 is just truly a well built tractor that your son will only have to change the oil in for years, a solid machine. The X330 MSRP $3,599. 22HP Deere brand motor, shares the same fully welded chassis that the X500 GT has (very strong), 48" mowing deck, Tuff Torq K46 (I think this is the weak point) but so much more. The X570 MSRP$ 6,399. 24HP water cooled? Kawasaki FS730V (I have the air cooled version of this, great motor), fully welded chassis, 48" mowing deck, Tuff Torq K72 transaxle with hydraulic accessory ports for ground engagement implements (light). The X570 is a true Garden Tractor. If Snapper comes up, it's revived by Simplicity see Simplicity. Simplicity Regent Lawn Tractor MSRP$2,949. 48" mowing deck, Hybrid "C" channel Pan chassis (same as the Snapper), 25HP Briggs Pro Series motor, Tuff Torq K46 transaxle. Simplicity Broadmore Lawn Tractor with perks MSRP$5,249. 48" mowing deck, Heavy welded hybrid channel chassis, 25HP Briggs, Tuff Torq K62 transaxle (Tuff Torq commercial series ground engagement qualified). Simplicity customers are also like Deere customers very satisfied and some are fanatical. Well built machines/service/parts are supported for decades. Kubota. I'm told that Kubota builds there lawn tractors for their farm/ heavy equipment customers. Kubota T2290KWT-48 MSRP $5,249. or the GR2020G Garden Tractor MSRP$8,856. People have put thousands of hours on these over decades. Very nice, comfortable, well built machines. The support provided to the customers of Simplicity, John Deere, and Kubota are first class in every way. If the sticker is high, look used. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a GT from Kubota, Deere, or Simplicity that was 10 years old, I would hesitate to buy new from the non premium brands knowing the product is sold in different colors but is the same product across brands and without much actual warranty backing, especially Husqvarna. All this to get to my advice, You need your tractor more than the average person like myself. I would start at the top. Make appointments with your local John Deere Dealer and try the X5 first, then the X3. Make an appointment with your local Kubota Dealer and try the GR2020G with diesel without diesel, then the T2290KWT. Make an appointment with your local Simplicity Dealer and try the Conquest GT, then the Broadmore, then the Regent. If you have a local Cub Cadet Yanmar Dealer try the XT3 GSX then an XT2. These premium Dealers will have models you can actually operate on their grounds, get a feel for how sturdy and confident they are. How easy or difficult they actually are. They will most likely be all too happy and with pride show you there service and parts departments just like a quality car Dealer. After you experience quality and get a feel for it, then go to the box store and at least sit on one, open the hood, if they allow you to push it, do this too. I'm willing to bet if you do this, actually do this, the sticker on the premium brands won't hurt so much and it will be very clear what you want by aligning your expectation outside of advertisements and cheap prices. I believe that whatever you choose after all this and a fine dinner (remember to treat yourself) you will be happy with it. Feel free to ask me for some proof if you need it in this process, you aren't buying a tractor for three years then throwing it away, but the stores are more than willing to sell you a tractor that needs a Coke can to keep running. GT...See Morebikerdoc5968 Z6 SE MI
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoThis one? No clue cuz I received all of them SANS names Looking at the leaf markings, I’d say a comptoniana or hybrid thereof
niksouthafrica
2 years ago
gdinieontarioz5
2 years agoPagan
2 years agoYour being in Ontario is such a bummer, Dinie. You and Rina lol
That particular reticulata clump is approaching break-up time. It is much, much slower than H. cooperi but it has roots coming out of the bottom. At the very least, I will have to move it to a deeper pot when the temp starts dropping.
Anyway, I was cleaning up my last remaining haworthia community pot. I think I can now conclude that the tesselata and the mutica on the right really can not compete with the water-hungry haworthiopsis on the left. I haven't succeeded plumping up the right side and increased watering only explodes growth on the left.
niksouthafrica
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoViscosa grows very well for you, Pagan. That's a bit of a default state for tesselatas and muticas here
Mutica nigra from gariep still not sure whether it likes living at my houseI got these yesterday, this has long been on my wish list: Mirabilis mundula from Mierkraal
A cooperi picturata
A fairly ordinary cooperi but it is a rooted offset, so it just is this colour
And, my bad: my sickly venusta. I have already killed 2 of these so I wasn't very proactive about discovering why this one was unhappy. When I finally looked, I discovered bugs. Not only in the roots but around the leaf bases too. Lots of banned everywhere else but here insecticides later, it is at least making new roots so I shouldn't have just written this off as "venusta finickiness". Meh, I love these but can't seem to grow them
Brett Osborn
2 years agoA place to share my Haworthia collection!? Yay! ^_^
The fam, in no particular order:
(My Haworthia Bayeri, who since this was taken has sadly has become much less sun-stressed and colorful.)
♡niksouthafrica
2 years agoniksouthafrica
2 years agobikerdoc5968 Z6 SE MI
2 years ago
bob_15
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoPagan
2 years agoWelcome to the lair, Brett. That H. bayeri looks great. It is my favorite haworthia.
I spotted the same one from @bikerdoc5968 Z6 SE MI's post, Nik. I agree, the splendens is strong in that one. It could be Yuki-keshiki.
And, so. Today:
Haworthia maughani cv "Shikou"
and my H. mutica var nigra. Can't remember why I separated them but they're in two pots. Hm.
They do not even resemble H. mutica. This photo was taken at dusk so it doesn't show up well, but the nigra looks kind of more glassy. Yours looks like that, too, Nik?
niksouthafrica
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoniksouthafrica
2 years agoPagan
2 years agoThat series always makes me want to pull all my hair out, Nik. I'm an avid watcher of on-going phylogenetic surveys but that only means I print out labels while thinking things like "H. emelyae, sure, for now *eyeroll*" Between Bayer, Breuer and Hayashi, I've blown a few gaskets in my brain trying to keep track.
On the other hand, it has saved me a lot of money; is that weird? I'm actually succeeding at limiting my acquisitions to species with reliable (ish) provenances. That's what I'm telling me, anyway lol (sure, whatever. *eyeroll*)
H. turgida var suberecta (Goritz) AL
H. turgida var pallidifolia AL
H. springbokvlakensis "Crystal Ball", STC
niksouthafrica
2 years agobob_15
2 years agoBrett Osborn
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoJohn (Zone 5b/6a, IN)
2 years agoCould you all help me narrow down some IDs?
On mobile so photos are at the end.
Photos 1 and 2 is the one I haven't narrowed down. Rather pointy leaf tips and not striking me as H. cooperi of any kind
Photos 3 and 4 are H. cooperi var. pilifera I think. Would welcome any help or corrections
Photo 5 is a side by side of the two types I'm comparing. These are some plants I got awhile ago and have been rehabilitating. I'm just getting impatient and want to figure out what they are.
niksouthafrica
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoJohn (Zone 5b/6a, IN)
2 years ago
ewwmayo
2 years ago@niksouthafrica Venusta are some of my favourites, but I have killed so many. They do great but then can become very finicky and wither away. It's frustrating!
It's a mix of plants for me this morning but no labels because I'm stuck working. This one I love the leaf pattern but the growth habit is a bit odd. I hope it will eventually fix itself.
A more subtle yellow-green colour:
A more chunky look:
niksouthafrica
2 years ago
bob_15
2 years agoPagan
2 years agoPagan
2 years agoTiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
2 years agobob_15
2 years agoJohn (Zone 5b/6a, IN)
2 years agoSnapped a good photo the other day and wanted to share. It feels really good to see most of the haworthias really perk up as we've gotten more into fall here in the midwest. Secobd photo is a gift from a coworker that I've received recently.
Btw, how much direct sun (or equivalent if you grow under lights) would everyone say they give their windowed haworthias? I know it's a spectrum and they can take a lot of sun, but with the seasons changing I no longer get any direct sun where the haworthias have been fir most of the year. Moved them from a north facing area to an east facing area and want to get some opinions on if that's a prudent move or not.
ewwmayo
2 years agoewwmayo
2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago@Pagan Took some sleuthing to figure it out... I had made the mistake of using sharpie on name tags years ago so the ink totally faded away. I have new blank tags from window blinds and pencil, but haven't gotten around to re-tagging everything again. That's a huge project which would probably go in tandem with updating my plant journal/list which is several years out of date.
The first chunky one is Haworthia Boris CCO 578. As time passes, figuring out things like this gets harder and harder! Here is what it looked like in 2016, just arrived from STC (reflecting back, it was pretty poor condition).
The second one is Haworthia Agnes アマゾナイト. It has some springbok in it and is a pretty slow grower. Here is what it looked like in 2017:
Pagan
2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago
Manda (zone 5b)
2 years agoManda (zone 5b)
2 years agorina_Ontario,Canada 5a
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoI still don't have any 'fancy' haws; but got Cymbiformis gold (not sure if that is correct name). Just a 2 small offset, that are still alive (got them in May):
MandaMany use lots of inorganics in the mix to make it well draining (pumice or perlite & the gravel). Many also use topdressing of gravel - I use it for all potted succulentts. Topdressing (for me) slows down squirrels from digging, and also prevent soil splashing if it rains (even if there is little of it). It also help to keep perlite down (in the pot above, perlite is on top since there is lots of it in the mix, maybe 60% & I didn't have gravel left...) And, IMO, it looks better. Hope others will post their reasons.
John (Zone 5b/6a, IN)
2 years agoManda,
As far as I know, topdressing can be used for a variety of reasons, both utilitarian and decorative. On the utilitarian side, much like Rina said, it helps prevent soil splash back when it rains or when the plants are top-watered. I think the use of a mainly inorganic mix kind of nullifies this point, but many growers do still have a significant amount if organic material in their mixes. If you use a mix that has a good amount of organic material in it, I believe the use woukd be to cover most of the roots with the soio mix, then use the top dressing to cover up maybe the last 2-3 cm where the roots come out of the base of the plant.
Another benefit (and I'm basing this off of others experiences I've read about, not my own - still a fairly new grower myself so... take what I say with a grain of salt) is that water won't be retained by the top dressing which means you don't have to worry about damp conditions around the base of the plant - cuts down on the number of fungal concerns. I think Gerhard Marx has a good breakdown of why top-dressing is a good thing to do on his website. Unfortunately I don't have it bookmarked, otherwise I'd link it. Maybe someone else does. I think he mentions that it also can function to keep the roots cooler which makes growing in a container less stressful on the plant. Although I've seen some conflicting issues with this, for example some growers using black or darker colored top dressings that get super hot in full sun and cause burns/damage around the base of the plant. Not sure if this is accurate and again, this is second-hand info so take it as you will.
I've used top dressing for preventing all the perlite from floating up to the top, but who knows, maybe there's a layer of ure perlite just below the top dressing in those pots. I've also used it (I use poultry grit as top-dressing mainly) in plastic pots that have a much lighter soil mix in them. It just helps keep the pot/plant from flying off the ledge or edge of the porch when strong winds come through.
It also looks nice honestly. A lot of growers have some really cool, old plants that are in these bomb hand-made pots with a top dressing that makes the plant stand out and look brilliant. I also saw some pics from a cactus+succ expo earlier this year where you the grower staged a massive pseudolithus (I think) in a pot that almost perfectly matched the color of the plant with a similarly colored topdressing. The effect was that you couldn't really tell where the pot ended and the plant began. It was kind of a trip, but the effect was amazing.
Couple pics to add: just a little shelf shot and a visitor.
Manda (zone 5b)
2 years agoJohn (Zone 5b/6a, IN)
2 years agoIt's quiet...
Too quiet.
Some shots from today - I'm lucky and have a nice south-facing window in the back room of our rental. Terribly insulated, but still connected enough to the rest of the house to not get too cold. Running a dehumidifer keeps the temps in the perfect zone for the haworthias and they're looking their best (so far, only had them for a year-ish)
John (Zone 5b/6a, IN)
2 years agoBeen downsizing lately, but maybe curating is a better way to look at it. Either way, it's been an opportunity to inspect the roots of these plants I've had for a minute now before I pass them along.
Look. At. Those. Roots! Unbelievably pleased.
John (Zone 5b/6a, IN)
2 years agoIn the process of moving, just some final shots from the old place. Finap pic is the venosa in the condition I received it. They're nothing if not hardy.
Pagan
last yearlast modified: last yearewwmayo
last year
John (Zone 5b/6a, IN)