I think turning the theater so that the back seats use the space at the bottom of the stairs is an improvement. However, it doesn't make sense to have so much space wasted with the new halls. The new plan seems confining, while the old one was open and friendly. And why would you want the elliptical out in the family room when you have company?? Going back to your first plan, but with the theater changed as in the second plan, can the utilities be moved? If so, could you extend the theater wall straight across to the right all the way to the opposite wall at the angle, and have that long space be for your shuffleboard (although it does seem like a place for exercise equipment would take precedence over shuffleboard based on amount each would be used). Or instead perhaps, extend the wall behind the fireplace down to the opposite wall where the other angle is, and make that the shuffleboard area--it would be a wider area than the other area I just mentioned. And you could glass in the part of the wall that's not by the utilities, and separate them from the exercise room with a wall. It looks like your wife wants to be by the window with the exercise equipment, but wouldn't it be better to have a less than ideal exercise room than to not have one at all? Ours is about the same distance as yours would be from the windows, and I'm happy enough just having some daylight get to the room. The other reason I think the first plan is better is because with the theater changed, you could move the game table closer to the theater wall, since there could be times that more seating might be desired near the sofa in the rec room. In the second plan, that possibility doesn't exist with the game table so close. Also in the second plan, it's rather unwelcoming to come into the seating by the fireplace by having to first go around the back of the sofa. And the door outside is in a better place in the first plan. I'd still put a closet in the office by taking some space from some of the cabinets at the back of the bar. Anne

Hey, Karin- Cool to hear from one of the comrades from over there. I like your tile solution. It's something I might do in the large family room, which also has the old, not-to-code paneling and has seen some occasional water. The most troublesome seepage wall might be a good candidate for this treatement. Thankfully, we've had no water for 7 years and counting. Still, I expect something to happen some day. This year was the biggest test -- so much water, so little sun, the farmers are still harvesting. They were in the fields right up to the current snow storm. All that rain, second highest in record, and no moisture in basement. Still I expect human error or mechanical malfunction at some point! Hence our attempts to choose flooring and wall treatments wisely. When we dry-walled in this bedroom, we asked for extra moisture "protection". The dry wall is slightly higher off the concrete than normal and has some sort of water repellent? It doesn't sound like a perfect solution, so I keep my fingers crossed. I'm embarrassed to admit it, but we did the initial work on this room 2 years ago. It remains empty with the bare concrete floor...My motivation is that I need a guest room. My parents used to visit and stay in a hotel. Dad died last April, and it just seems totally wrong that I don't have a room suitable for my mom to stay in. And thanks for the wallpaper border idea. I like that. And, yes, it would help with the color chase. I think I'd like the irises on the wall or walls, but not the bed cover. Have the irises be irises on the wall, but only let them show elsewhere through color touches or very small details to be discovered here and there. So I think the bedspread should be something solid, maybe even a texture...crochet...not sure what I'm thinking of here, but I'll know it when I find it. And, Jant, I'm interested in your synthetic sisal suggestion. Would it give the warmth / comfort of carpet? I'll put it on my "consider" list... Thank you to everyone. Finally, I feel as though my ideas are connecting and coming together. I'll probably borrow some textures and colors from this room to help with the sm guest bath just across the hall. That just leaves the family room...The biggest questions there are the flooring and the fireplace, which is the room's main focal point. All of these responses are very helpful. Thanks again. Wellspring

The practical definition of a Juliet balcony is a deck that doesn't have a platform, only guard railings. The code interpretation issue is whether or not the exception to R311.3 that allows a landing less than 36" in the direction of travel is satisfied with a dimension of 0". The next question is what dimension would be allowed (2", 4", 6" etc.) I suspect you will find that your contractor knows what he is talking about. You won't be the first person to ask the building department for an interpretation of the exception to R311.3 and you may be successful but the only thing that is certain is that they cannot refuse the 4x6 deck the contractor proposed and they might accept brackets down to the existing foundation that would avoid foundation piers. They might also accept a 3x3 deck. The biggest waste of money would be the construction of two foundation piers that would later be abandoned. Ask your contractor if brackets to the foundation would reduce the cost of a 4x6 deck. If so, that might be the best solution. The contractor's offer to install the ledger board is a sign of good faith. Make sure it is through-bolted and properly flashed according to the new more strict code requirements added to the IRC after so many fatal deck failures. I recommend Grace Vycor Plus under the building wrap and over the top of the pressure treated ledger board and that should be protected with metal flashing (no unfinished aluminum). Metal flashings do not weather well when in constant contact with water on top of a ledger board so the vycor will prevent water intrusion when the metal flashing inevitably fails. the metal is essentially protecting the Vycor from UV rays. I stopped using ledger boards 40 years ago even for decks close to the ground. I always use Maine Deck Brackets.

Followup: It took 5 cubic yards of topsoil but we go the job done. We used two 2x10 nailed together to check level as we went. I used a splash block and my feet to compact the soil but some light rain helped as well. The hardest part was getting the ground level to work with the drain extension we took out to a pop-up. Next step is selecting a grass seed mix. We plan to re-seed this area and over-seed the rest of the front yard within September.