Currently working for a sewer district we dont even allow slip lining in our district due to some poor experiences. There has been a few pipe bursted laterals done and will only be allowed if they have sufficient grade otherwise it will follow existing dips and belly's. We will allow it also if it's an unusual circumstance such as a building over the lateral or a well manicured yard. Although we prefer open cut replacement if your local Sewer District will let you pipe burst I would go for it. I would certainly speak with them first and ask for their preference and once its done make sure the line replacement history goes in your file. You might also check your home owners insurance because there was a few out there that was paying for replacements.

Excavate around the pipe, cut an ABS coupling in 1/2, apply adhesive liberally to both the pipe and coupling halfs, install and clamp with a 5" hose clamp. Backfill, water consolidate and tamp the filled area. The emphasis should be on the integrity of the driveway, not the pipe.

IF you are not equipped to chip away sidewalk concrete, and IF you need a patch that will be good for only a few years, you can sleeve the break INSIDE with a piece of PVC with a wide enough slit in it to allow it to close/compress down just enough to slip inside. Glue it to death. Keep in mind this is a ridiculous patch but it's one that will work, especially outdoors away from your house. Secondly, if I read this right and can assume that a 4" drain is huge for your pump, you could dig into the lawn just a little bit, reduce the outer lengths of the sump line to a 3" pipe, shove a 3" pipe into the broken sidewalk tube, and Bob's your uncle!

We have been crazy busy this last week removing all the steel studs, furnace and two 50 gal water heaters from the basement to make ready for the new concrete floor so sorry I am just now getting back to here. We just finished late yesterday and we are both really sore from all that manual labor getting everything out. The company that will be putting in the concrete started at 7 a.m. this morning welding the iron that will hold the corrugated steel sheets that will hold the 4" concrete floor. When they are done with that, we will spend the next three days laying in the vapor barrier to cover the dirt and we also have to put extensions on the two sump pits. Prior to this, we had to have the OSB flooring removed and about 1 foot X 2,200 square feet of expansive soil removed, new helical piers drilled, the second sump pit installed and new perimeter trenches dug and new french drains and rock put in so this has been a horrific costly project. We have done any and all work we can do ourselves to defray costs. Thank you all for so much helpful advice...I appreciate all of it!! We did check into having tubes put into the concrete to carry heated water to heat the floors but about 80% of the floor will be carpeted and we have been told that heated floors would not be efficient with carpet. There may be some great pad to use under the carpet that provides more insulation too. There will be a tiled bath and a work/hobby room that we will put the heated mats under the tile. We may put in a high efficiency stove/fireplace in the future. I have been reading about all kinds of concrete sealers, one has tea tree oil in it which protects against mold and it seals against radon too so I think we will seal the concrete floors for an extra layer of security! We will also have this super heavy duty vapor barrier down on the soil. We live in Colorado so it can get very cold here and we also have radon issues. Back to the stair issue...I have received about 50 responses to the ad I put on Craig's List. One guy said he was experienced with stairs and it was probably a half day job and would be about $100 labor plus materials. That sounds really low but I plan to call each one back and screen them - or at least the ones who answered my ad in the way I asked them to - and the ones that look good I will have come look at the stairs and give me a bid. I realized that it doesn't make much sense to have them look at it until the concrete floor is in which will now be the second week of June.