Sooooo glad to run across this, used bar keepers friend on a dry toothbrush and just a few rubs and it came out, perfectly!! My stains were like train tracks across both legs from throwing the jeans over a the rail on my stairs to dry. have done this 100 times, no idea why it stained this time, but the bar keeper's friend got all of it out.

Orange inside three dressers and a book case...very strange. Dressers being damaged by something destructive...eaten up with holes and splitting wood. It is also on kitchen cabinets. Orange spots on garage floor and circles o white wooden shelving with splitting. Pest man said orange circles on wood a definite kind of mold. Orange streaks on wooden fences. Black holes and split on fences. Stuff in my cars...finally tried ozone generator...orange circles on the OUTSIDE of the car! Orange spot on new shirt...a white shirt being eaten up and also socks. My house is clean and cars too. Just found strange blob of sticky white stuff on top of pulled out drawer...I seldom get in it. Beside tiny blob a spot that has dried and has super tiny black bugs? Now in my car a a super tiny black bog or ? Left sticky or smudge mark. Also have larger smudge that will not come clean...very near tiny bug.Dark black markings on some wood in kitchen and den...weird and pest control says no termites. Feel like I am totally going crazy.

If you use a solid color stain, you could put a sealer just over the nail heads or screws, whichever it is, so it wouldnt bleed through. A different type of nail or screw should have been used, so it wouldnt rust, and look like that. It will look very nice, once you stain it.

OK. This is not a water chemistry issue, Sounds like your diligent in the chemistry management. You're one of the few!! When we set our plumbing either in the spa or the pool, we have to support the pipe by tying it to a piece of rebar. The pipes are stubbed out beyond the shotcrete. After the shot, the crew will carve out around the pipes to allow for access to the pipe to cut them back prior to plastering. I'll post a pic of a recent build during construction to see the stubbed pipes. Most times we have to chip a bit more to allow the wall fitting to sit back far enough to finish flush with the plaster. Sometimes the supporting piece of rebar interferes and we will cut it out. The pipe is cut back and the wall fitting is set. Everything is pre-measured to ensure the fitting when glued is fully seated and ends flush for plaster. Setting the wall fittings should be the PB's responsibility. Not the plaster contractor. Perhaps in your case the rebar was exposed, the pipes were cut back too far, not extended and the plaster contractor set the wall fittings flush as they were plastering. So now the wall fitting is not glued to the stub and the space in between has the rebar exposed resulting in rust. It will never stop. Chipping out the wall would be a great undertaking and any plaster patching would be noticeable. I don't have eyes on these wall fittings, but perhaps cleaning up the affected areas, allow to dry, reach into the fittings and rough the plastic surface with some emery cloth. A long, narrow wire brush attachment may work well. Wipe it clean and apply some GE Silicone where there is a gap. This may be tricky if it's in deep. A long flat applicator of some sort will help. Apply enough to fill the gap but not too much interfere with the jet function. Allow 24 hrs to set. This won't be a permanent fix, but it should stop the rusting issues.