You are going to have to sand the deck down. I would stay away from stripping and neutralizing as everyone always recommends on this forum. I would rent a floor buffer from home depot for $40/day and buy a few white buffing pads and some circular screens. 80 grit should work well. Attach the white pads to the drive block on the buffer, which acts as a shock absorber for the screen to contour over the boards. I would screen the entire surface of the deck, sort of abrade the old finish off. You won't have to worry about squaring off the edges screening, even if you used a hard disc, it would still take a lot of sanding to knock those edges off. Then I would use an orbital palm sander and blast each board. The screening process will take a lot of labor off your project, but ultimately, you have a pain in the butt job. The real problem is the benches, posts, railings and pergola, but if you want it to look good, might as well do it right. You're going to have to sand everything, period. All in all, everyone has their own recommendations for sealers and whatnot, I only use one product for Ipe, which is called Rubio Monocoat. It's expensive, and just as much as a pain to apply as sanding down your deck. But trust me it's worth it. I have no idea how to post pictures on here but every deck I've done looks like furniture. In fact, after you're done, you'll have to upgrade your house. Check the stuff out. You have to apply a water based sunprimer (pigmented, uv inhibitor) first, by hand, wipe on, immediately wipe off, application process, each individual board. Allow to dry, then you buff on a 2-component decking oil. Then you have to buff it off. Here's the tricky part, you have to work in sections with the oil, because you have a 3-15 minute window to apply the oil and then remove the excess. If someone could please explain to me how to upload pictures on this thing, I would be happy to show you the difference between a regular deck, a good professional deck and then my decks. Again, there is no miracle end all, maintenance free Ipe deck. You will still need to maintain this deck. Just like you do a pool or landscape vegetation. Dependent upon the sun you get, you'll need to apply a refresh coat (aerosol spray for vertical surfaces and buff on horizontally) every 3-6 months. This requires work, and money. I won't tell you what I charge to do the work per square foot, but I will tell you that it is expensive and does require recurring maintenance. But besides looking amazing, the great thing about this is it is completely repairable. Dogs, furniture, any sort of scratch or gouge can be fixed.

leep, that's awesome they're willing to do that to make you a happy customer. They'll get referrals from you for this...it's the name of the game in this economy. Make the customer happy enough to pass your name along with no reservations. A little jackhammering, concrete and plumbing will go a long way. Since they're going to do that...go for it!! You did some research and found out in time to fix it, and I'm thrilled you're gonna get better jet height... I was so afraid they'd balk...good for you both. Really great company you hired! Can't wait to see pics of the new jet placement. Thumbs all the way up!! Another 2 weeks or so will make no difference at all in the long run, AND they're getting some nice free positive advertising here on the Forum. Never hurts. ;-)

GOT IT! A tiny piece of dense foam. I connected a pump (1hp) to the blocked jet. Capped the 3 other jets and the air venturi pipe at the pool equipment. Lots of volume. To be sure, I then capped the return line and blew out through the venturi pipe. It worked so well I think I'm going to plumb a T in the return line when I redo the equipment plumbing. My jets are not removable. A couple of them are more than 12 inches back in the 1 inch pipe. And there's LOTS of gunite all over the pipes outside of the spa wall. It took about an hour to do the job. Thanks for the suggestions.

How do these spa jets differ from the rest? All I see is that you mention they are under the spillway. Normally a spillway is a damwall and is usually built (by default) thinner than the other walls of the spa (unfortunately). With plumbing in that dam wall as well, it has less concrete density to it, and can have weak points of coverage over plumbing and....you guessed it, rebar. It could even be as simple as tie wire holding the rebar that is out of the shotcrete and in the plaster. I've seen steel guys use tie wire to hold a spa jet in place as they steel a pool/spa. It's one of the reasons my preshotcrete inspection by my guys includes tamping down all tie wire and measureing for all shotcrete coverage over steel. Did you use a pool builder or did you go OB?