I too would get it out of the soil its currently in and into a new pot of gritty free draining mix and gradually move it towards more light as it appears to be searching for the sun. This would also show you if you have 2 plants there.... which I personally think you have as Adeniums are not naturally multi trunked below the ground like that. I would separate the squishy one and pot it up on its own so it does not affect the other one (assuming you have 2 plants that will come apart)afer you have cut it back down to clean wood as the others have suggested. Maybe you might even be brave enough to hard prune the other tall one as seen in other threads on here. It should then push out new branchesmuch lower down from the old leaf scars, given a little time to recover first. Yes, it will be a shock for the plant/s but far better than losing one or both from the problem you have now. Hope this helps :) Gill UK

We are in the midst of a remodel and the framers have already started!! We have an existing bathroom (approx. 5x8) for which we are opening a doorway for direct access to a bedroom. We want to retain access to this bathroom from the hallway, so we are installing a pocket door. It is an older home and I have a 32" x 68" door that matches the existing doors to use for the pocket door. It is heavy, solid wood. The contractor is going to use Johnson Hardware for the framing (am waiting on more detail for the hardware). It is being installed in 2"x 4" pocket (no room for anything larger). This is our forever home, so we would like for everything to last for 30 more years :-). Some questions: 1. As mentioned, the door is heavy. I read on a forum somewhere that a contractor had used the Johnson Hardware for the framing, but had used the glides on the bottom from Hafele. Has anyone else tried this or have any suggestions? 2. I'm not certain as to how smoothly/easily the door will glide once installed. We have two other pocket doors to the house, but they are over 50 years old and take a small amount of effort to pull closed. This will be my daughters bathroom and she is 8. Should I install soft close on either end of the pocket door (wondering about little fingers getting smushed or door closing into the pocket too quickly)? Has anyone used these? I've seen the videos and not sure it would be more frustrating for kids to have the soft close. 3. Instead of using the pulls on the 1 3/8" side of the door, has anyone ever installed a bar handle for a privacy/bathroom door on the "outside" of the door, or would this be too odd (our house is more traditional than modern)? I thought this would be easier for kids to operate...but I can't find any pics online except for exterior or non-privacy doors. I did find the picture below...not sure I've posted it correctly from Houzz. The door would also need a lock...see question 4 below. <div><a href='https://www.houzz.com/photos/gb-honed-range-projects-contemporary-bathroom-brisbane-phvw-vp~10854162' target='_blank'><img src='http://st.hzcdn.com/simgs/50112acb03431552_3-4391/contemporary-bathroom.jpg' alt='GB Honed Range Projects' border=0 width='214' height='320' nopin='nopin' /></a></div><div style='color:#444;'><small><a style="text-decoration:none;color:#444;" href="http://www.houzz.com/pro/australmasonry/austral-masonry" target="_blank">Photo by Austral Masonry</a> - <a style="text-decoration:none;color:#444;" href="https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2103" target="_blank">More contemporary bathroom ideas</a></small></div> 4. Because the door has been used as a swing door, there is a round hole where the knob would be. I understand that there are blanks that can be used to fill the hole and be sanded and painted. I anticipate that most of the time the door will be closed to the hallway - so very visible. Should I use a round privacy lock for the door (I was looking at the Linnea line) to use instead of trying to fill the hole? Would this look strange with a bar handle as mentioned above? 5. Other option could be to flip the door around so that the hole side is the side that recedes into the pocket wall (though plug would still be visible) and install a mortise kit like the Emtek and forgo the bar handle altogether. 5. Because this is a privacy door, I'm having the frame of the door jamb have a "lip" on both sides that the pocket door will slide into to lock so that there is no slight crack at the opening...no question but is there anything else we may not have thought of? Any advice would be MUCH appreciated!

Regarding a 4" or 3" or 3" etc. backsplash. If you're not planning on tiling, there's nothing wrong with them. Nor do they look stupid or dated when used alone. Just skip them if you're tiling. Does this kitchen look stupid or dated or "low rent"? What about this one? This one? This one? Maybe this one? How about one more try? Call me crazy but none of these kitchens looked stupid or dated to me. What's going to date faster one of the kitchens above or this one? Personally, compared to the ubiquitous white subway tile or worse, elaborate intricate busy "statement" back splashes glazed with unicorn tears that people feel compelled to install, I much prefer the simple, clean lines of a painted wall paired with the much maligned 4" or 3" or 2" back splash. Of course others may disagree. I'm perfectly fine with that.

Brettfelouzis, then the size of the light should be between 20” and 24” long. You could get away with 20” I think. Here’s what I did:: took some painter’s tape and marked out the lengths of the lights I considered by the door. Then I knew which way I was leaning. The “heaviness” of the light plays a role I think, as well. The more metal there is, the more presence it has and thus is visually heavier and in such a case, I would likely choose a 20” option. This is an example from my garage (my front door has a pendant, otherwise I would show it), these are 20” long. I would have gone longer but we couldn’t find any we liked. In the end, you just have to try the light out and if you don’t like it, return it.