Construction grade plastic (used to cover your windows?) is not designed for prolonged use outdoors under strong UV light. It will break down very quickly and need replacing very quickly whether you inflate or not. Greenhouse grade poly has UV protection in it to prevent it from breaking down so quickly. My poly is 6 mil which is plenty thick and sturdy. Farmtek sells a greenhouse film, with UV inhibitors that is comparable to what I use. The 5.2 oz sample you tried is not appropriate for greenhouse covering. It is for roll up curtains. Do yourself a favor and use poly designed for greenhouses and for growing plants, no matter what other techniques or methods you eventually decide to go with. There are other advantages, in addition to those already mentioned -They diffuse the light which gets it to the bottom leaves of plants more effectively and filters out UV which reduces the chance of scorching leaves inside the gh. Also, greenhouse poly doesn't tear as easily as construction grade plastics. It can be easily repaired if it happens to get punctured for whatever reason with patching tape made specifically for gh poly. Patching is also easier when the sheet is nice and taught, as it would be if inflated. The method you are describing, hanging one layer below the rafters was addressed and commented on in a post about a year ago. To do this requires a lot more labor than the traditional method of inflating two layers. In the inflation method, both layers of poly are laid on top of the structure and only fastened around the edges. Then air is pumped in between, creating a pillow of air with all the advantages described above-with no need for mesh. Every time you puncture the plastic, you create a weak point. Nailing though lath, which is how I understand you plant to attach the poly, will create lots of weak points along the rafters underneath. The lath will also be tricky to remove and reuse in subsequent reskins. BTW- When securing the poly with lath along the edges, roll the poly around the lath twice. This will help transfer the holding power from the nails to the entire edge of the lath and make it much more secure. It will also help create a more air tight seal for inflating : ). For a future upgrade from lath, I recommend the "wiggle" or "zig zag" wire system. Once the base extrusion is installed, it is very easy to attach and remove the poly. You can easily retrofit this system anytime you reskin. For small jobs and for quick installation, I still use 1/2" staples and batten tape to fasten poly to wood. Considering that you may even be able to get 5 to 10 years of life out of good poly, you may not even need to change to glass or plexi. Both of those have considerable disadvantages to inflated poly IMHO. The upgrade to make would be to polycarbonate as mentioned by tsmith earlier. I did some quick math: at 18" spacing a 2x 4 on edge (1.5 inches) will create up to 9% shade if you include the end rafters in the calculation. That is significant shade right off the bat! The effect would only be amplified during the winter when shadows might be wider/longer and the sun is not nearly as strong nor the days nearly as long as the summer. The movement of the sun will not have much if any effect on the overall shadow/shade effect. Nearly every plant will experience close to 100% shade for a short period of time, several times a day (for each rafter shadow). Also the wire mesh: I calculated that 14 gauge welded wire mesh with 2 inch openings would add another 5% or so shade. F. DeBaggio

What I see after 35 years of interior remodeling is what works and what doesn't. Often the product was fine but the installation was not and conversely the product was bad and install good. Usually its a combination of the two. There are slcs' that may have the compressive strength and polymers to work in your situation and they have very specific instuctions as to priming and mesh. You will not find them at HD or Lowes. Those are generally for over concrete or as an underlayment for carpet. My objective is to give you my opinion on what works, is accessible and diy. Others may disagree with this technique but I have never had a disatified client and my business is 100% repeat and referred customers. Use a quality subfloor adhesive and 100% glue down of 1/4" hardi board. Screws every 4". Lay the mat as instructed and pour thin layer of thinset over entire floor making sure it stays flat, which will require some defferent size screed boards.Another way to keep it level and smooth would be to apply with a 1/4" notched trowel to maintain height, let dry then fill in the grooves. Let it dry overnight and then set your tile. Don't mean to sound obtuse here but if you feel totally qualified in using the proper slc and all it entails you will probably be fine.

first off, remove the countertop backsplash that is already there. If you knew you were doing a splash, why was that installed? you should be able to remove it without issue. you can remove hood, tile all the way up to crown molding, and reinstall hood. you can also tile along the tops depending on how long the wall is I would have been better if they made you a larger crown to go all the way to the ceiling,,like this If you stop short, it will look like this

Kevin: You don't necessarily have to change your cutout to change that sink. Disconnect the plumbing, remove any mechanical clips, drive a stiff scraper between the sink flange and the stone bottom and drop the sink. Take the sink out the front of the cabinet. Install a couple Sink Straps from Regent Stone Products, then undermount a Kohler 3821-1-NA. Here's your job with the cutout change and a low divide Kohler: