Hey everyone! Wanted to provide a quick update in case anyone was curious. We hired a drywall guy and he took It all down, put new up, and cut out for the lights. But, small headache/freak out, and now our ceiling is beautiful. Also, to whoever wrote that the lights might be too close to the wall/uppers, thanks for the heart attack. This renovation is going to be the death of me! Lol. They are 24 inches out from the wall. Now I’ve quadruple checked that everywhere and that is correct lol. Must’ve just been the angle of the photo. Thanks for all the input! We paid him 800$. What do ya’ll think - and be honest? Good value, did we get scammed?

@PebblesAnn F: "I am similarly left on my own for choosing sloped ceiling lights..." You must first determine or decide: The slope of the ceiling Whether you want 6" or 4" fixtures The color temperature you want (only if using a 4" fixture because the light source is integrated; no separate bulb) Six inch housings, trims, and bulbs: IC926 Series 6" Standard Slope Incandescent Housing (scroll down for trims) IC928 Series 6" Super Slope Incandescent Housing (scroll down for trims) Four inch housings with light source, trims 4" Internally Adjustable LED Fixtures You would choose one of the IC4AL housings, specifying the brightness (lumens), color temperature, and beam angle You would choose a slope, trim type (adjustable round, fixed round, square); cone color, and trim color If you didn't want to make such decisions at purchase time, you could just go with the canless, white HaloRLS4099FS1EWHDMR 4" and new-construction mounting frame (also 6") adjustable-slope, multi-color-temp fixture (Amazon).

I have found I prefer the mix of trims. I don’t like very evenly lit recessed lighting, and I think it’s become more popular. It doesn’t feel natural to me, even with dimmers. I’ve been starting from a wall where I want gimbals and working out from there, but I’ll admit it really makes my brain hurt, which is why I’m searching the lighting posts tonight! I really like the Juno deep 4” trim wdccruise mentioned. I think it’s Haze or something but I’ve been looking at trim for hours now so I’m probably mixing them up. I used one in a single location and almost regret it since I’m about to buy 9 housings, trims, and bulbs and now I want them all to look like that, and they’re much more expensive than what I’ve used before. Halo has something similar. I think they’d especially look nice mixed with other lights, like surface mounts or period ceiling lights, because they don’t show as much and don’t look as stark as more shallow fixtures, like the led retrofit kits.

The final recessed fixture count is 219 ranging from 2" to a few 6". The design was based on modeling each room with specific lux level goals. I think in retail stores you can get away with using very large, very high lumen fixtures so you get high output with fewer fixtures. I wanted fixtures as small as possible, but it means I need more of them to get the output and uniformity I'm after. But maybe I'm missing some other obvious solution. If I can get mouting plates for $2 each, then I'm definitely willing to use these. It seemed like lighting manufacturers were insisting I had to use their specific mounting plates, and the ones I was seeing were $20-30, which in some cases increased the cost of the fixtures by 50%. For example, I'm looking at these Keystone 4" lights for $40 where the mouting plate is listed at $24: https://www.prolighting.com/brands/keystone-technologies/downlights2/kt-rdled16ps-4b-9csf-vdim.html For spray foam, I should have been more clear. I came across an IC-rated housing that said it was specifically rated for spray foam so I started doing some digging because I had assumed all IC rated housings (and fixtures) were rated for spray foam. I'm finding that "IC" rated may not necessarily be enough for spray foam insulation. The housing needs to specify that it's IC rated *for* spray foam. I don't know if this is true or not and I'm not sure what's required by code. Maybe it's just a marketing ploy. https://www.houzz.com/discussions/4816984/recessed-cans-rated-for-direct-contact-with-closed-cell-spray-foam https://www.cooperlighting.com/global/brands/halo/683469/h995icatcp-4-icat-cp-rated-new-construction-housing This is the most authoritative document I can find on this topic and it does explain it well: https://www.nema.org/standards/view/polyurethane-foam-application-lighting-equipment