More sun would be appreciated. You can pot them on - a five inch pot and the sort of potting mix that is free-draining yet doesn't dry out. Need to have the bulb about an inch under. Not deep. Place them somewhere the temperature doesn't get beyond 55F/13C. They are winter-rain growers by nature. You can feed weekly with dilute liquid fertiliser (tomato would probably do) and keep it going until the leaves are starting to get that 'I've finished' look. Be moderate about watering, though - and allow for excellent drainage. Pot feet or stand on pebbles in the water saucer. Definitely provide stem support - either individual or one of those hoop thingies that slide onto a pot from the bottom. And make sure the air can circulate - to prevent moulds and other nasties. When the weather warms up - pop them outside to finish off. Avoid frosts, though. The doubles can be tender. Repot in midsummer. You may want to separate the spawn from the larger bulbs for growing on, provided none of them showed any signs of virus in this growing year. PS - they might not be scented; simply pretty.

so, what's the answer? cause i bought my spider plant, already growing, about 3 years ago (give or take) and ive never seen a baby . h**l ive never even had a full bushy plant despite; the south facing window, soaking and drying completely for water (twice a month ill say), i feed liquid fish fertilizer (2-3-0) and replace the potassium with bimonthly banana peels (i prefer organics for plants) . its hanging in a basket .. i changed the soil this summer so i know the tube roots are thriving (actually wasnt prepared for them and scared the begeebys out myself hahaha) . my only thought upon reading above posts ; could i have repotted too soon and didn't let the roots get hugged? cause i assumed like most other plants if you give more space for roots, the more intricate the roots become, the stronger the plant .. is that wrong? helpp !! i want plant babies !

Could be any chewing bug, or slugs or snails. They just love eating baby plants of any kind! Sprinkle some bran or sawdust around your babies to prevent the creepy chompers, and make a little tent with some mosquito fabric (the kind you cover your baby's cot or pram with) to keep away the flying chompers. You could try cutting the top and bottom off a plastic soft-drink bottle, or a cardboard milk container and put it over your babies. Makes the plants harder to find and get at. You could also try spraying your plants with some garlic spray. So you can't wait for a week? Use it straight away! It won't affect the flavour of the plants, but yours aren't ready for harvesting yet anyway. Keep up the spray about once a week or so if you've still got thieves - just wash the leaves as you would normally before using them if you don't want the garlic taste. GARLIC SPRAY: Soak 1/2 cup crushed garlic cloves in 1/2 cup vegetable oil for one week. Add a little liquid soap and dilute the mixture - 1 part mixture to 10 parts water. Garlic spay will kill and repel aphids, woolly aphids, bean fly, stink bugs, crickets, grasshoppers, red spider mite, sawfly larvae, scale, snails, slugs, thrips and caterpillars, mosquitoes and ticks, the adult moths of leaf-miners and mealy bugs. It is an effective fungicide when used 3-4 times a week against potato blight and damping off.

Hibiscus Seed Capsules Seed saving is a lot of fun and it's easy to do! This is how I do it....and these are general and universal instructions. Mother Nature is pretty easy to figure out if we keep with the idea that SHE needs to keep it simple too. Take a good look at a flower. When the flower fades leave it where it is, do not remove it. Eventually at the base of the flower there will be some swelling. This is where the seeds are forming. Do keep the petals where they are and let them fall naturally...I don't touch it or bother it, I just leave it be. The base of the flower will swell even more and soon you'll notice that the flower stem and the swollen base are turning a papery-brown. This is a very good indication that the seeds are almost fully ripe....in effect the plant has achieved it's goal of reproduction for that flower...it has produced viable seeds and no longer needs to expend energy to keep it alive, so it doesn't sends it's sugars and water up to the stem anymore. That's why it's turning papery-brown. It's no longer being supplied with nutrients and so it's dying back. The drying action will continue and as the swollen pod continues to dry you will see it start to open....some pods will open in a starry design, plants like poppies create a ridge of tiny little circles near the top of the pod....they make themselves into something like a little "salt-shaker" (sorta...but you could imagine it.) All flower pods will open in some manner when the seeds are ripe....it's so they can disperse their seeds. When you see that the pods and stems are both brownish in color, AND you notice that the pods are starting to open you can then collect the pods. I place the pods on an open plate or in open bowls in a safe place where they won't be disturbed and let them continue to dry naturally for another week or two. Then I remove the seeds from them. To assure that the seeds are thoroughly dry I let them dry on an open plate for a few more days...I even will stir them every now and then to make sure the bottom layers will get a chance to dry too. Storing the dried seeds is easy. I use paper envelopes. I make my own with my printer, but you could use coin envelopes or even mailing envelopes will do fine too. Label them so you know what's inside. Store them where they'll be away from heat or direct sunlight. I use cardboard file boxes to keep my seeds in and those do just fine. Another good place to keep them is in your dining room drawers. Those are dark places and your dining room is sure to be safe from extreme fluctuations in temperature. Good luck with your seed saving! Trudi