skip to main content

Landscape Design Shrubs Trees

Advice Wanted Re: Removing Tree in Front of House

Michael Friedman

3 years ago

Hi - new member to the forum here. I've been intending to remove a medium size evergreen tree in the front center of my home. The reason is that it covers up and hides a large portion of the front elevation and makes the house look smaller IMO. See pics below. I added close ups of the space to the left and right of this tree. The shrub to the right is some sort of thorny crimson leafed bush which is attractive in the summer months but I'm not wed to keeping it.

I'm in planting zone 7a and the soil has a high clay content (not sure about acidity or other chemistry).

I have two questions I'd appreciate any suggestions for:

Do you agree the tree should come out?
What type of bush(es) or small tree would look good in this space once the tree is removed? I'm willing to spend a couple grand if necessary including the removal and preparation of the soil like installing a border and mulch bed.

Thanks in advance!!

Featured Answer

Michael Friedman
Original Author

2 years ago

last modified: 2 years ago

Hey There - hope you're all having a good summer so far. I figured I would come back and post a couple pics of how the front of the house is looking these days. I'm pretty happy overall. The two hydrangeas will need some time to fill out their intended footprints. The Heucheras seem to be happy in the shady spot under the Japanese Maple tree, Need to add some more mulch to the whole area. I'm thrilled to have that yellow Chamaecyparis tree out of there. I should have done it 20 years ago when I first bought the house. Thanks everyone for your help with this!

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (47)

Christopher CNC
3 years ago
Yes you can remove the yellow Chamaecyparis tree. You have a nice wall to show off. The weeping cedar and deciduous tree on the left are plenty. Fill in the space with that juniper looking groundcover if there is enough sun. The condition of the yellow chamaecyparis makes me think shade. Do a ground cover height plant that works in that space.

The rangy looking shrub on the right is a barberry. Root prune it. There is no reason to have sharp needles in the garden.
Michael Friedman thanked Christopher CNC
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
3 years ago
remove it immediately ... no reason it cant be a winter job ...

easy way... cut flush to the ground ... and apply a stump killer... just to be sure its dead .. though it probably isnt necessary ...

you can plant anywhere you wish within a few feet to the stump ... just not where the stump is if you leave it there ...

or dig it out ... or pay ... to have it done ...

after that.. snap some more pix.. if you want ideas of how to landscape it... it real hard to do such with it there blocking the view ...

add big city location ... zone alone is not good enough ... PNW is not atlanta GA.. if you get my drift ....

and plan on hiding the garbage cans ... after we are done.. you wont be wanting to look at those.. lol ...

ken
Michael Friedman thanked ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
Related Discussions
Need advice to either remove tree or trim it
Q
Comments (2)
You'll get a lot more input if you post in the Trees Forum rather than this fairly obscure sub-forum. Only a few of us ever come in here.
...See More
Front yard re-do! (Advice, please.)
Q
Comments (7)
Aw, I was just kinda teasing, I know that isn't really your thing, although I do believe you'd enjoy a small area dedicated to some rough and tumble succulents. The contrast alone might be especially delectable. As long as they completely dry between waterings, they'll do OK. Else not. The main issue with my scheme might be the patience required. It would be some long years (5-8) before the Yuccas reach a nice height along that wall. Take a look at the pics from GreekDesert at the link I've added. A massive succulent garden in Greece, absolutely dominated by Yuccas. Jaw-dropping. Here is a link that might be useful: Landscape shots
...See More
new homeowner/old home-- need advice re: vinyl replacements
Q
Comments (15)
I was going to write much the same type of reply that skydawggy already did, but his reply made that unnecessary. I went to replacement window link and I was amazed at how much misinformation was posted there, which is a shame, because I happen to agree that in the right circumstances restoration is the way to go. But, there is so much about the information on that link that is either way outdated or was simply never true at all. One example from the preservation article is comments on laminated glass ---- " ¼ ", laminated glass has better UV protection than all the low-e coatings. It also approaches similar thermal capabilities as insulated glass, is more soundproof, is safer and cost less than insulated glass". Safer? Yep, it is. More soundproof? Again, that is a yes versus either single pane or standrad dual pane windows. If someone is specifically interested in sound blocking ability, then that is another issue entirely. Less expensive than an IG? Not typically, but there are exceptions. More energy efficient? Nope. A laminated glass lite has pretty much identical thermal or energy characteristics as a monolithic lite of the same thickness. There is no energy advantage to using laminated glass in place of monolithic glass. Better at blocking UV? Yep. But while laminated glass does block over 99% of UV light from coming thru a window - which is more than any LowE coating will block and which I assume is specifically referencing fading protection - fading is also related to visible light as well as UV and while laminated glass will provide extensive UV protection, the correct LowE coating may be even better at fading protection. And, my take on restoration versus replacement, if anyone is interested............... First, when the "restoring versus replacing" argument comes around to the energy performance differences (if any) between the restoration window and the replacement window, they will eventually be lost in the rhetoric of the aesthetic reasons for restoring versus replacement. And these are often very valid reasons by themselves. Second, because no matter what the numbers show about individual unit performance, ultimately the individual window is still part of the overall structure of the home and its performance as part of that overall structure is what is important - not necessarily how well does it perform in the lab environment. As I mentioned previously, I happen to really like old windows when they are a significant part of the architecture of a home. I believe that they are so much a part of the charm of an older home that it is worth every possible effort to try to save them. I certainly understand the appeal of replacing older windows for the potential improvements that replacements will bring in energy consumption, comfort, and the potential ease of maintenance; but I also understand the desire of many people to try to do everything possible to save the original windows in a classic home. There are a lot of misconceptions about old windows versus new windows and many opinions often based on opinions and feelings and not on facts that come up in discussions like this one. I would offer a few for consideration: FACT if a homeowner was to opt for top-quality replacement windows, he or she could get them made in any style that they wanted in wood, fiberglass, aluminum, steel, and yep, even that old villain vinyl. There are available styles that would fit their home and that would be virtually indistinguishable from the original windows in the home and, these windows could last every bit as long as the home. But note that I said "top-quality" spelled $$$$$$$$. FACT a low end replacement window doesnt come close to meeting the same sort of standards as does a top-quality product from the materials used, to the glass used, to the hardware used it could be like comparing a Yugo to a Ferrari (and whatever happened to Yugo BTW?) and from a performance standpoint a good restoration will almost always be a much better investment of time, trouble, and money than changing to a junk replacement. The guy in the Sunday paper who promises to replace every window in a home at "$99.95" with his "sooper-dooper-highest-quality" vinyl or aluminum window likely has neither the highest quality window nor does he have the homeowners long term interest at heart. He needs to get in and to get out and what happens in five or 10 years? Thats no longer his problem. A very common comment from folks who favor restoration over replacement is that restoring a single-pane window and storm window combination will result in energy performance numbers that are comparable to any new window on the market regardless of any glass coatings or gas used with the new window. Fact the newest dual or triple pane windows made with LowE2 or LowE3 coated glass and argon or krypton fill are substantially more energy efficient than old windows single or double pane. A triple pane window with LowE2 coating on surfaces 2 and 5 combined with krypton gas infill and a low conductance spacer system can achieve energy performance numbers as much as 10 times better than an original single pane window and as much as six times better than a single pane with storm (or a low-end dual pane window as well). R-values aside, since they measure only conductive thermal transfer, and any discussion of windows has to include radiant performance (60% plus of total window performance), the primary advantage of multi-pane windows over dual panes is the ability of a multi-pane window to include LowE coatings. The coatings improve both conductive and radiant performance of the window over clear glass. If one wants to discuss R-values in window systems, then the current "highest" measured R-value glass currently on the market has an R-20. A good triple pane window with LowE2 coatings on glass surfaces 2 and 5 can achieve an R-10. A dual pane with a single LowE on surface 2 can theoretically achieve an R-5. But, again, that is ONLY a measure of conductive performance and it is far from the full story. Comment old windows may have lasted 50, 75, 100, or more years and new windows will always fail in short order only lasting 5 or 10 years. Fact quality products will outlast non-quality products no matter when produced. For all of the older windows that are on homes today and that deserve the chance to be around even longer, there are tens-of-millions of windows that were made in the last few centuries that didnt make it into todays world for a wide variety of reasons including simple window failure often as a result of poor or non-existent maintenance. The ones that have made it thru are often the best that were produced and they likely had a good bit of maintenance at some point. These are all very good things that make the idea of keeping them around even longer worth serious consideration. Ultimately, older windows have lasted as long as they have because they are of simple, uncomplicated construction that has had the distinct advantage of using a material (old growth lumber) that is no longer widely available. The pyramids will easily outlast a modern skyscraper that doesn't make a pyramid inherently superior than the skyscraper - it is simply different. Old growth lumber can be worth preserving if only for itself. And as an aside, when I am talking about "older" windows, I am not necessarily talking about much of the junk that popped up during the post WWII building boom. I am considering classic houses with architecturally classic windows. Obviously there is quality and there is junk from any era. Just because something is old, there is no reason to consider it "better". The better, newer, dual and triple pane window systems now on the market and installed all over Europe and North America should easily reach 50 years life expectancy - many will go well beyond that time. There are vinyl windows in Europe that were installed over 50 years ago that are performing flawlessly today. Comment restoring old windows is good for the environment and helps with energy performance. Fact while this is certainly true, it isnt the entire story. Despite comments from folks who love their old windows and there are a variety of very good reasons for that feeling those reasons are primarily aesthetic, not primarily efficiency. Replacing older windows with available higher-end energy-saving products will directly save energy over restoration. But, restoration and the addition of a good storm window can still be a huge improvement over windows that are stuck, painted-over, drafty, and without storms and it will keep those windows out of the landfill. Fact many old houses have their original windows and some of these windows (if they have had adequate maintenance for their lifetime) are in very good shape. And some are also in very poor shape, most are somewhere in between. But, they have all made it this far and if they are worth restoring, then by all means that should be considered as a very definite option. Again, most (but not all) older windows are made with old growth lumber which is inherently better than almost any lumber available today - which while being absolutely true and rather sad in some ways - in the end this is what our ancestors left us with. Makes me wonder sometimes what we will be leaving our descendents?. Fact older double hung windows with sash cords are inherently energy wasters because that open spot where the weights hide is an energy black-hole. There are alternatives to the sash-weight pocket that can improve this energy dump, but while replacing the sash cords and weights will improve energy performance, not everyone would consider that to be a viable option. And there are other options involved with keeping sash cords that will help as well. Fact many people like the look of wavy glass which was the norm in windows made long ago; yet the waves and bubbles in glass are technically a flaw in the manufacturing process. Glass producers did their best to avoid such embellishments, but it was the best that could be mass produced at the time using the sheet glass process. Actually, for higher-end (spelled $$$$) folks they could produce glass with much less waviness, even back at the turn-of-the-century, but it was expensive and few folks wanted to, or could afford to, spend the money for it, which of course doesnt mean that such ornamentation doesn't add the charm and character of the window and subsequently the home. Lots of "flawed" items have a certain charm and character of their own. And btw, I very much like "flawed" wavy glass and it is available today, made in the exact same process that was used 100 years ago, only today it is considered decorative and is therefore expensive. Finally at the end.
...See More
Taming the jungle - need advice re: tree and brush removal
Q
Comments (27)
re stumps - in the woodland area, I wouldn't be in a big hurry to get rid of them, other than to cut them down as low as possible. It can get very dry in woodland conditions. Rotting wood will hold a lot of moisture so planting new things next to a rotting stump or log can really help with survival when planting in an area where you might not be able to get to with a hose. We had a dead pine and a sick pussy willow taken down last fall. When we planted a new 'Wolf Eyes' dogwood to replace the one that died last winter, we planted it next to the pine stump to give the dogwood a source of moisture and nutrients. We put some logs from the dead pine on a dry bank at the back fence so the logs can hold moisture for the things we try to grow in that area. We moved our 'Empress Wu' hosta to beside the willow stump for the same reason. There are other logs, a dead apple tree trunk, and a few dead branches scattered through the woodland beds as moisture and nutrient sources for the plants. So I'd only grind out or otherwise remove stumps from areas where you want to grow lawn but definitely leave them in the woodland area - and maybe even in 'garden' areas too depending on what you want to grow there and whether it would be useful to have a natural moisture sponge and nutrient source for them. There used to be a big old white spruce where our big front bed is. When we had the tree taken down the stump was left, cut off at ground level. It's rotted away completely now and the soil in that area is better than in the rest of the bed!
...See More
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
3 years ago
and in the third pic.. whats the ground cover.. a juniper.. or a perennial ... a closer pic will get you the ID ...
Embothrium
3 years ago
Cut off what you don't like, think about the changed situation for awhile and then add what you think will produce an improvement later. When garden centers are stocked for the spring gardening rush.
Michael Friedman thanked Embothrium
KW PNW Z8
3 years ago
Oh my gosh, Yes!, Take it out! Great advice from Christopher, Ken Adrian & Embothrium. You won’t believe the difference in look of your home once it’s gone. You do have a multi phase project & I agree with Ken - come back with more pics & info when tree is laid to rest.
Michael Friedman thanked KW PNW Z8
emmarene9
3 years ago
You could try cutting off all the lower limbs and then reconsidering. Although it is tall, it is still young and the trunk is not thick. You maybe could remove it yourself. I would certainly not plant another tree in it's place. The stone is nice. You could leave it exposed for a season while you consider what you want. No need to hurry.
Michael Friedman thanked emmarene9
User
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
Yes, remove the overgrown plants.

I've heard that most landscaping, after 25-30 years, is past it's intended usefulness.

You may want to remove it all and replace with smaller or dwarf trees/shrubs. or leave one of the larger trees and some low shrubbery then add a few smaller specimens to the picture.

I'm not a design expert but do agree that something must be done. :-)
Michael Friedman thanked User
Michael Friedman
Original Author
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
Thanks everyone for your comments. Very much appreciated. Today, I removed the tree although I still need to cut the remainder of the stump flush to the ground. Lots of work tomorrow to bundle up the branches for the curbside collection :-(

Here are new pics so you can see how the space looks without the tree. I'd like to maybe get rid of the barberry bush and add a couple waist high evergreen shrubs or mini tree. A neighbor has some beautiful shrubs which I think are mugo pines. Wife likes color so another possibility is to create a flower bed for perennials?

Ken - I live in Southern New Jersey near Philadelphia. The front of the house faces east with partial shade coming from a couple trees near the sidewalk, but a decent amount of sun makes it through. Also, I can confirm the existing ground cover near the void is juniper.

As you can see, the tall shrubs to the right of the weeping cedar are overgrown. I plan to trim those down significantly (or remove them?) . Also there is a small rhododendron tucked behind those bushes that could come out or if I take out the big bushes then maybe plant more rhododendron?.
Christopher CNC
3 years ago
Yes get rid of the barberry. Is that more of them in front of the evergreens on the right? If so, kill them too. Can you take a closeup of the shrub between the rhododendron and cedar for ID? Some shrubs can take a hard pruning and some can't. The rhododendron may be worth keeping.

You need to free up the weeping cedar if you want to keep it so it is more of a focal point.

Most rhododendron will get too large for this space and perennial flowers will only give your wife color for 3 months of the year without a well planned seasonal progression of plants. Euonymus japonicus 'Aureo-marginatus' or another cultivar are colorful waist high shrubs that would work for this space.

When you replant, do it a minimum of 3' away from the house. Everything in that bed was planted too close to the wall.
Michael Friedman
Original Author
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
Christopher- it’s funny you should recommend the Aureo Marginatus. That is the same species that I already have on the right side that you asked me to ID. I have two of them approx 5 feet apart on center and 6-8 feet from the wall. I didn’t know they were called that until I googled what you posted lol. The problem I had with that shrub is that it grew much larger and faster than I anticipated. I guess it really likes the soil and shade conditions there? They grew really quickly to around 8-9 feet height even though i cut them back often. There’s only one barberry left I removed a scraggly one today and I agree the other one needs to come out also. I don’t have anything growing in front of the Aureo it just looks that way because I had pruned back the lower branches last Fall.
Christopher CNC
3 years ago
That is way tall for a Euonymus japonicus. It may not be one of the more dwarf cultivars and the cramped spacing and competition can force plants to grow up for light. There are a lot of newer dwarf shrub selections these days. A visit to a good nursery come spring may be in order.
Michael Friedman thanked Christopher CNC
KW PNW Z8
3 years ago
Michael, there is a house behind that tree! And, a pretty stone wall too! I like it when a decision is made and the project immediately goes full steam ahead. I agree with Christopher about the Rhododendron size being too big for the space. A nice alternative might be azalea - they are as popular & as easy to grow as rhodies are here in the PNW. They come in many flower colors, gorgeous in spring &most are evergreen - there is a deciduous variety but personally I would go for evergreens for a front entry. Thank you for sharing “after“ pics.
Michael Friedman thanked KW PNW Z8
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
3 years ago
call miss dig ... and have the mark the utilities ... either for when you dig.. or where you plant ... no use planting directly on top of such ...

pic of the ground cover????

keep in mind.. foundation planting are planted TO HIDE THE FOUNDATION.... NOT on the foundation ... that is the root problem of these old bushes ... they were not left much of any room to grow because they are too close to the house ...

understand that conifers are trees .. as such.. they never stop growing in your lifetime.. or the next owners lifetime.. the is the second problem when these old beasts were planted ...

mugo's are sold as dwarf ... that only means it takes them a few more years .. annual growth rate ... to get much to big for a spot .. trust me ion that .. dad planted a dozen of tiny babes in front of the house i grew up in... and fast forward.. he had some punk dig them all out because they were huge.. and all he paid me was room and board ... lol ...

size estimates are usually at 10 years ... see link below for annual growth rates ... it is usually 10x the annual rate to get the 10 year size .... as trees that never stop growing ... presume at 20 years ... they will be twice as big ...

https://conifersociety.org/conifers/learn/conifer-sizes-growth-rates/

if you really want to make an impact for the future ... stay away from bigbox ... unless you just want what everyone else has ... if you want to KNOW what the future holds.. then buy named plants.. with known growth potential ... it really is worth the minimal extra investment ... look around this joint for what is available ...

https://www.coniferkingdom.com/

you have to deal with your wife.. but if it were me... i would skip the mugos ... good luck with that .. lol ... maybe let her shop around CKingdom ...

in z7... you ought to be able to plant some sublime JMaples that i cant get away with ... in a multitude of small sizes ... im jealous ... and would be very upset if you settled for mugo ...

ken
Michael Friedman thanked ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
krnuttle
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
As for the stump. We live in east of Raleigh NC, Our lot was woods for several decades before it was cleared for the house. I find that the soil in the untouched areas of the lot are sufficiently active that the softwood rot away in a couple of years. You can speed the rot in a stump by drilling several 3/8 or larger holes in the stump. These collect water and lets a culture be establish that will speed the rot. Let time do the job instead of your back and dollars.

If you go the this route, do not put anything on the stump, you want to promote the growth of organism in the stump not kill them off
Michael Friedman thanked krnuttle
floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
3 years ago
I came up with E japonicus when I first saw the pictures. I believe that’s a correct id.
Michael Friedman thanked floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
Michael Friedman
Original Author
3 years ago
Thanks all!

More pics of the japonicus and weeping cedar as well as a side shot to show how far from the house they all are.

Ken - great anecdote about your Dad lol. I really love Japanese maples too. I will strongly consider that option. Maybe I take out one of the two Japonicus leaving the one further to the right and along with taking out the barberry that would give the weeping cedar some room to stand out properly? Take out the Rhodo? I do love the color, but it's in a bad location.
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
3 years ago
Maybe I take out one of the two Japonicus leaving the one further to the right and along with taking out the barberry ... blah.. blah.. blah ... lol ...

===>>>

the story wasnt about dad.. it was about the punk kid.. lol ...

listen to me ..I WILL YELL .... TAKE OUT EVERYTHING .... if budget and ability will allow ... OR ...or do it in stages... but long term.. get rid of it all ...

trust me on this... you will regret EVERYTHING you leave .. sooner or later ... and though it can all be removed later ... it might not be as easy ... but just make it part of the plan ...

i still cant ID that ground cover stuff ... sooo.. just get rid of it.. lol ...

ken

and dont forget a strategically placed plant to hide the garbage cans ... it was the punk kids job to pull those in every week also ... lol ... BTW.. you have any punk kids to do the work ...???.. tell them youll watch the grandkids while they toil ... age isnt indicative of punkness ....
Michael Friedman thanked ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
KW PNW Z8
3 years ago
About the Rhodie - you said you like it but agree the location is bad. In my location rhodies are pretty amenable to being transplanted. Do you have another spot around your home that would be the “right” place for it? If not, maybe a neighbor or friend would welcome adding to their yard. You’d still be able to enjoy seeing it that way.
Michael Friedman thanked KW PNW Z8
Michael Friedman
Original Author
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
The ground cover is Juniper.

when you say take all of it, I’m just wondering the logic. the weeping cedar? The Japanese maple on the left? I’m inclined to keep the weeping cedar and the maple tree and tear out the rest. Not sure on the Juniper.

the maple on the left is gorgeous in the Fall
Christopher CNC
3 years ago
I want to keep the Japanese maple, I thought that might be what it was, the weeping cedar and the rhododendron. The juniper is sparse looking because of the shade of the maple. It needs full sun to look best and won't be a good groundcover choice here. It can go too.
Michael Friedman thanked Christopher CNC
floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
3 years ago
Lose the Euonymus and keep the rhododendron imo.
Michael Friedman thanked floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
Michael Friedman
Original Author
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
Christopher and floral - I like this advice. I'm going to keep the maple and weeping cedar and probably keep the rhodo also and get rid of everything else including the juniper. I think the juniper is rather ugly and I hate the acratchy feel of it when cleaning up leaves etc. I prefer leafy shrubs to needly, prickly stuff lol and I despise any type of vine based plant like ivy because it behaves poorly and grows all over the place.

What is best groundcover that is a leafier variety that won't become invasive into the grass and unintended areas?

Here are a few pics I snapped on my morning walk. A couple leafy shrubs (I think the purple one is an evergreen azalea?) and a ground cover that I like. Help with ID appreciated.
KW PNW Z8
3 years ago
My guesses in order of pics, 1 azalea, 2, sarcococca ruscifolia (several kinds of this plant exist), and 3 pachysandra ground cover. All of these are shade plants or at least not hot sun plants. Did you ever say where you live?
Michael Friedman thanked KW PNW Z8
Michael Friedman
Original Author
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
Southern New Jersey - the front of the house faces east and gets partial shade from a couple larger trees in near the sidewalk.
Christopher CNC
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
The first may be a PJM rhododendron cultivar. Someone will quibble with that no doubt. The second pic is a Cherry Laurel, probably the smaller allegedly dwarf 'Otto Luyken'.

A good partial sun groundcover is hardy geranium. Many selections to choose from.
Michael Friedman
Original Author
3 years ago
Christopher - thanks for that! Would the geranium groundcover be replanted each year? It’s a perennial right?
Christopher CNC
3 years ago
Yes the hardy geraniums are low spreading, blooming perennials with greater and lesser abilities at being semi-evergreen. Weathers depending.
Michael Friedman thanked Christopher CNC
junco East Georgia zone 8a
3 years ago
I really like Veronica "Georgia Blue" as an evergreen groundcover. It is hardy to zone 4, likes full to partial sun, and has tiny blue flowers in the spring. You could plant 3 each of the geranium and veronica and see which one likes your garden the best. You could also add a few coleus in the spring to give contrasting color. Good luck. It looks better already!
Michael Friedman thanked junco East Georgia zone 8a
indianagardengirl
3 years ago
What about Huecheras for ground cover? Some of mine are very nearly evergreen in my zone 5, although they do look ratty at the end of winter. However, a quick snip of the foliage and they resprout quickly.
Michael Friedman thanked indianagardengirl
KW PNW Z8
3 years ago
Absolutely love Heuchera/ Coral Bells! That’s a great suggestion. I have them edging walkways and patio in both front entry and back yard & in sunny & shady spots. They come in so many colors so no need for flowers with them. But, their flower spikes sure do attract the hummingbirds!
Michael Friedman thanked KW PNW Z8
Michael Friedman
Original Author
3 years ago
UPDATE

So, as you can see I've got the area cleared of the barberry bush and the juniper ground cover and prepped with mulch. I ordered a Blue Hydrangea Macrophylla for the area in front of the windows and some Heucheras (a Blondie and two Wildberries) for the area to the left. Wife wanted to keep the two Japonicus bushes on the right. We'll see about keeping them later.

Comments/suggestions?
User
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
'Comments/suggestions?'

Yes, the mulch goes on last. ;-)
KW PNW Z8
3 years ago
Wow @Michael Friedman! Looks like a totally different house! Nice to see the rock borders & the one tree on left is now a focal point with the 2 big trees that blocked window gone. The blue flower hydrangea will be pretty against the blueish grey stone on house. Nice color combo on Coral Bells. For future reference- those are very easy to propagate when they get a year’s growth on them - just break off a woody stalk, stick in ground & keep watered til it roots. My preference on the Japonicas would be to remove at least the one in front of the weeping cedar. Both of them are pretty bare at base & look like they’d benefit from a top trim. Thanks for coming back with update! Always fun to see the “ rest of the story“!
Michael Friedman thanked KW PNW Z8
HU-682763252
3 years ago
Looks so good. Seeing the after pics literally lowered my blood pressure it’s so peaceful and clean to look at. Well done!
Michael Friedman thanked HU-682763252
emmarene9
3 years ago
Vast improvement.
Michael Friedman thanked emmarene9
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
3 years ago
super ... continue developing the new areas ... and eventually she should come to realize why the Js should go ...

look into rejuvenation pruning on the Js ... and maybe just massacre the one you dont want.. until she demands you screwed up and tells you to remove it.. lol ..

if you add the full proper name.. you can add it at the link and probably come up with some vids ... im too lazy to scroll thru all the above to do it for you ..

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=Japonicus+++pruning&t=ffcm&iax=videos&ia=videos

if possible .. cut one of them to near the ground.. and let a new plant come up ... it will either tickle you both.. or result in removal ... anything might be better than what you have there now ...

ken
Michael Friedman thanked ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
3 years ago
There is no plant called a 'japonicus' :-) Japonica or japonicus is the species name of dozens of plants, so without a more complete name (or a close up photo of the plant in question), we have no idea what kind of plant you are referring to.
Christopher CNC
3 years ago
Euonymus japonicus.
Michael Friedman
Original Author
3 years ago
Thanks everyone. As Christopher said, the two overgrown bushes are Euonymous variety of Japonicus.

Ken - I was literally 30 minutes from having the two J's removed. My wife (and son) got very irate and didn't buy into the plan so I relented. I'm still hearing about my kitchen backslpash choice 10 years after the fact and didn't want to "die on that hill" LOL. I am definitely going to trim the back significantly.

I'm also thinking of planting some pachysandra groundcover in the area near the japanese maple and to the left of that one I have the other plantings located. I really like the texture and lush appearance of the ones I see in the neighborhood.
User
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
Very nice indeed Michael!

The plants now compliment the nice looking house you have instead of hiding it.

On a scale of one to ten, the improvements you made are at least a 9.

Good job! :-)

eta: I agree, the Euonymus j. have to go.
Michael Friedman thanked User
Michael Friedman
Original Author
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
OK Ken - now you've done it! I took your advice and in a moment of courage and inspiration, I just reno/pruned down one of the two Eunonymus and trimmed back the other one a few feet on top. Wife is made at me already! I told her it would grow back! It will right :-) ???
KW PNW Z8
3 years ago
But look how much better the weeping tree looks! You can see it now! So pretty! And yes, the JP’s will charge right back so you might need to sneak out & trim that one on a regular basis to keep it at height you have it now. 😄
Michael Friedman thanked KW PNW Z8
Christopher CNC
3 years ago
The weeping cedar is not mad at you. Much better. Is that another rhododendron I see behind the remaining japonicus bush? Keep that. Time to tell the wife and son the internet has voted the japonicus bushes out of the flower bed. Root prune both of them.
Michael Friedman thanked Christopher CNC
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
2 years ago
youve always have a black splash redo if you screw it all up .... lol ...

and tell the boy ... if he doesnt like it.. he can take ALL responsibility for the yard work ... if he wants to continue eating for free in front of the new backsplash ... lol

ken
annztoo
2 years ago
Thanks for the update......looks great!

Some Fiddlehead ferns and Bergenia would also look great under that maple. 😉
Michael Friedman thanked annztoo
Marie Tulin
2 years ago
Just curious, does anyone take an interest in the garden except after the fact to criticize your work?

The house looks fabulous. It looks cared for, not abandoned. Congratulations on taking back control from the plants, which have no sense of design or proportion. Plants just want to survive and that means getting as much space as they can under and above the soil to maximize their growth. But you pay the property taxes and you are the boss.

Nice work
Michael Friedman thanked Marie Tulin

Related Stories

REMODELING GUIDES House Planning: When You Want to Open Up a Space

By Bud Dietrich, AIA

With a pro's help, you may be able remove a load-bearing wall to turn two small rooms into one bigger one

HOUZZ TOURS Houzz Tour: Tree House Living Inspires Southern Home

By Becky Harris

Embracing nature but with comforts like a hanging hot tub, this South Carolina house lets the homeowners enjoy the best of both worlds

TRAVEL BY DESIGN 11 Amazing Home-Away-From-Home Tree Houses Around the World

By Mitchell Parker

Go climb a tree — and spend the night. Tree house hotels and lodges are booming as exotic vacation alternatives

HOUZZ TOURS My Houzz: Wasting Not, Wanting Not in a New Portland House

By Whitney Lyons

Salvaged and secondhand elements make for a home that's earth conscious, thrifty and beautifully personal

HOUZZ TOURS My Houzz: A Reclaimed Wood House Rises From the Trees

By Sarah Natsumi Moore

Scorched siding, thoughtfully repurposed furnishings and a connection to both family and nature shine in this designer's new build

MOST POPULAR A Magical Tree House Lights Up for Christmas

By Sarah Greenman

From the Most Popular file: An incredible tree house takes things up a notch for the holidays. See how it came to be

DECORATING GUIDES 10 Easy Fixes for That Nearly Perfect House You Want to Buy

By Laura Gaskill

Find out the common flaws that shouldn’t be deal-breakers — and a few that should give you pause

LIFE Why We Want a House With a Great View

By Mitchell Parker

Research shows that just looking at nature has powerful mental benefits. Here's how to get a boost — with or without a million-dollar view

MOST POPULAR The Most Incredible Kids' Tree House You'll Ever See?

By Sarah Greenman

Duck your head to enter this unforgettable Dallas wonderwork, lovingly crafted with imaginative delights

EVENTS My Houzz: They’re Right at Home in Their Schindler House

By Carolyn Reyes

Chance brought a couple to their Inglewood home designed by the L.A. midcentury architect. It will be part of a June design tour

Sponsored

Peabody Landscape Group

8 Reviews

Franklin County's Reliable Landscape Design & Contracting

More Discussions

Help with plants for sitting wall near pool

7

Heat pump camouflage

11

help me please with this area of backyard

16

Advice on Cox Utility Box

12

Along my wkway I want a row of owers that are heat tolerant a d take a

0