Glass can change color in natural ways. Exposure to sunlight can change the color of glass as will exposure to soil. Jars buried in the soil can become iridescent. These are all natural chemical reactions and vary depending upon external conditions and the minerals in the glass. An example would be a kerosene lamp which turns purple as it ages due to a chemical reaction between sunlight and the manganese in the glass. I don't know how it's currently made, but I know Ball used to use a certain % of cullet in its glass jars and the chemical composition would vary depending upon the source of the purchase. Cullet is broken old glass (like windows or soda bottles, etc.) which is mixed with the fresh ingredients to make "new glass." The cullet is required to assure an even melt in the furnaces. So all canning jars have some slight variation in the chemical composition depending upon the composition of the broken glass being used and that influences the response of the glass to sunlight, minerals (like that in dishwasher detergent or water) or soil. It's not harmful and there's no reason not to use the jar but my inclination would be to use it in boiling water bath rather than pressure canner in case the iridescence is due to excessive heat, which might have weakened the glass. Carol

A fein multimaster with the flat/sharp blade could get between the glass and the wood (from the front) to cut the sealant. From the back a sharp utility knife would cut it. You will probably sustain some damage to the wood from the Fein. But there may be no perfect solution. Simply smashing the glass out (place the doors over a trash can) could still tear up the muntins, which are always very delicate in glass doors. If you don't have muntins in your doors, breaking the glass out is a faster cheaper alternative. The fein tools are very costly. Casey

Get a holder for single edged razor blades. Many auto parts stores have a type that has blade storage in the handle and a long shaft. I like that type better than the fold away metal holders. Use the scrapers as soon after removing the tape and when the finish has started to set. Material will have a tendency to stick to the blade of the razor. Getting it off safely can be done by having a rag handy. Lay the rag on a flat surface, hold the far end, and drag the blade away from the hand to clean.

Late to this thread but your BPantry shares a lot in common with what we're contemplating. Can you share dimensions of: 1. width of floor 2. width (i.e., depth) of each countertops 3. width (ie, depth) of cabinets? And do you recommend any changes to those for a de novo project? We're considering: 40-42" for the floor width - do not want it too wide or there is lost efficiency of movement; but of course do not want to be confined when a drawer is opened; 18" deep countertops - this is, after all not the kitchen, but is a clean-up and storage area. But if we do not place the d/w at the nether dead-end of this long room (we may or may not), then at least one counter will of course need be the requisite 24 for the d/w 15" & 18" deep cabinets. Thanks for your and any others' advice...perhaps we will begin a thread of its own.