$2000 Stimulus Check Question
5 years ago
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Craftsman LT 2000 won't run
Comments (2)Bill, thanks for the one and only reply. Just to let you know, I didn't check the ignition switch as you offered, but I was confident that was the problem so I went ahead and ordered a new one for $12 + shipping. It fired right up and runs like new after all the other work I did on it! I also had to replace the mower clutch cable so I sharpened the blades while the deck was off. Also, anyone who is having trouble with the carb. solenoid: you don't need it. Just cut off the plunger and disconnect the electrical connection. Install a fuel-shut-off valve in the fuel line and just remember to turn it off after each use. The engine will shut down just fine without the solenoid and there won't be any "dieseling". Happy mowing!...See MoreQuestions regarding 2000 Buick Park Avenue
Comments (4)Thanks Bucky. So far so good. I loved the Rivieras, it's unfortunate that GM pulled the plug on such a beautiful car... but business is business I guess. His car doesn't have the supercharged engine, just the standard 205 hp version... but it pulls the car pretty good! Another quwstion that perhaos you can answer: When turning on the air conditioner, is there a more convenient way of getting the air to blow through the vents than having to push the air flow button several times to get it off of the floor to the 'mid' setting? Everyime I turn the AC on, the setting is always on the floor (regardless of where it was the last time I shut the car off) I'm sure the memory feature would take care of this, but I'm still learning that one too!...See MoreProblem with Stimulus Check/Tax Refund
Comments (19)Hi Jock Ewing, Being a furriner - I have no useful advice to offer regarding your Incentive funds, tax refund, etc. ... sorry about that. However - I'm with dadoes ... wouldn't it be a good idea for you to plan to reduce your tax refund to close to $0.00? Over the years that I've worked as a personal financial advisor, one of my major suggestions to clients and others was that they reduce their income tax refund to $0.00. Even at low rates of interest ... money in your bank account does develop a small amount of interest, during the year and a quarter to a half or so that some of it would be there. I'd like to suggest that, during the year while your extra large withholding is being held back and sent to the IRS as an interest-free loan, you check with your bank as to the amount of interest that the extra amount withheld would have earned. Then when you receive your tax refund, suppose you take an equal amount and, in the presence of your family, throw it into the street. Do you figure that they would, on the strength of that act, judge you to be a wise manager of money? Not only are you losing the small amount of interest (let's call it a "pittance") that that amount of money would earn if you'd taken it and put it into a separate and inviolable bank account ... it would have been available in case of need to deal with a major emergency expense. The IRS wouldn't have been too sympathetic had you, facing such a need, asked them to pay you a portion of that potential refund during that year. Which relates to another major suggestion that I made to my clients ... that they try to have at least 3 months' income available in easily accessible asset in case of an emergency. With six months', nine months' or a year's amount being built up in case of substantial unexpected need - including, in recent years, a possible extended period of unemployment. I shared with a number of them the information that I often did not have that on hand myself during my years of recent employment, as I held a "credit" (really "debt") card with, usually, zero or almost zero owing, with full amount paid off monthly prior to due date, plus a line of credit at the bank, usually sitting unused (with no set-up or maintenance fee if unused) which I could draw on to pay off the credit card balance due after use to cover an emergency. Actually, I recently signed up for another card, with 1.9% interest rate for 9 mos. on transferred balances, to use to purchase stock, should I so choose, as I would have to pay 5.00% currently on my line of credit but can buy the stock using the first card, then transfer the balance. But - the first card will charge interest at regular rate (about 18%) from the date that I draw on it till the date that it moves to the second card. By the way - I'm 80 and live on less than the income from my three pensions (one governmental with residence requirement, so housewives qualify, a second contributory related to my former income, and a third private contributory one) plus a small annual required amount of withdrawal from a tax-deferred retirement account. That income is much more secure that most employment income, as all that I need do to qualify is ... ... stay topside the grass! Which makes my pension income almost a guaranteed income (as long as the private carrier and the government stay solvent - and ours is a lot closer to that than yours). Do yourself a favour, Jock, please - set up a bank acocunt that you promise to leave alone except in case of extreme emergency ... and deposit the amount of withholding overcharge from every paycheque. With a name such as yours - you may have a drop or two of Scottish blood in your veins ... and you know their reputation for being careful with the use of money. Good wishes for what's left of winter, the spring - and the rest of the year. ole joyful...See MoreWhich is Best: Lockinvar of Energy kinetics 2000?
Comments (13)Quote from jimcolonial - "I think the sytem 2000 is by far your best bet, oil or gas you will reduce your fuel costs, the knight is a condensing boiler which gets most of its efficiency if it actually condenses but with cast iron radiators you wont have a condensing boiler at all so your savings are greatly reduced, how much fuel does the knight claim it will save you?" This is quite wrong. Most houses with cast iron radiators were sized with much higher heat loads in mind than are currently experienced. Various weather sealing upgrades - new windows, additional insulation, sealing other sources of infiltration - have reduced the heat required. This means that high water temperatures are rarely required. And even if the house does require a high water temperature at design conditions, this is only a very short period of time of the heating season. The vast majority of winter the system will run at much lower water temperatures. For example, my house has baseboard heating - a system that some people will say won't operate at anything short of 180 degrees. However, at 0 degrees outside, my water temperature is barely pushing 150. On a typical 30 degree day, it's running around 115. There is a study that Brookhaven National Laboratory did about this topic (can't find a link to it right now) but they found that there is considerable "shoulder season" time that will allow condensing so you will definitely save money with a condensing boiler. Michael...See More- 5 years ago
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