A couple more thoughts.. If you use cap type moldings, would ou use it for all four sides of the window? That would make sense but I am not sure if fireclay makes capped corner pieces. Have you thought about using a smaller section of your countertop material for the windowsill? You mentioned a new cabinetry enclosure for the new fridge. Will it have crown molding on the side and front. The side molding on the window side will have to line and match the molding on top of your existing cabinetry to the left of the window. The gap between your window and the molding will have to be the same on both sides I think. I like the contrast between the painted wall and the moldings and the window trim. Ne thought is to just do a 4 or 5 in baseboard type short backsplash that will die into the window trim and use a window sill of the same material as the countertop. On the right, the short backsplash would die into the fridge cabinet and the top of the fridge cabinet with with similar molding will tipoff the area nicely. I am not sure if you are following what I said :) This post was edited by GWlolo on Fri, Jan 25, 13 at 15:54

We skipped the bumpout to keep costs down. You're right, it looks nice, but since it wasn't needed, we skipped it to splurge on other things in the kitchen.

Stumbled onto forum searching web for advice. Want to frame out a kitchen sink window bump out. Window size is 4' x 3 1/2'. Bump out will be 6 inches. Header is already there from the six foot slider I removed. Framing question: Do I frame the inside of the rough window opening(cripples on up) with double 2x10's(flush with inside 2 x 4's ,protruding 6" outside) to my rough size, or is it ok to pancake and facenail 3 or 4 2 x 6's on to the perimeter of the window opening even with sill and jack studs on the exterior of the house? I have two foot soffits over hangs so water is not an issue. Just want to make sure I am framing it correctly. Pics would help Thanks

Ellie, I am in CA so I believe it is 2" for every outlet too. Here is what I read online: (1) Wall Counter Space. A receptacle outlet must be installed for every kitchen and dining area counter wall space 12 inches or wider. Receptacles must be installed so that no point along the counter wall space is more than 24inches (2 feet), measured horizontally, from a receptacle outlet. Receptacle outlets are not required on a wall directly behind a range, counter-mounted cooking unit or sink. (2) Island Countertop Space. This Section mandates only one receptacle outlet to be installed at each island countertop that has a long dimension of 24 inches or greater, and a short dimension of 12 inches or greater. (3) Peninsular Countertop Space. This Section mandates only one receptacle outlet to be installed at each peninsular countertop that has a long dimension of 24 inches or greater, and a short dimension of 12 inches or greater. (4) Separate Spaces. When breaks occur in countertop spaces (ranges, refrigerators, sinks, etc.), each countertop surface is considered a separate counter for determining receptacle placement. If a range, counter-mounted cooking unit, or sink is installed in an island or a peninsular countertop and the depth of the countertop behind the range, counter-mounted cooking unit, or sink is less than 12 inches, the range, counter-mounted cooking unit, or sink shall be considered to divide the countertop space into two separate countertop spaces. Each separate countertop space shall comply with the applicable requirements in 210.52(C).