Retrofit Farmhouse Sink
Mackenzie Stern
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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PROPatricia Colwell Consulting
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoMackenzie Stern
3 years agoRelated Discussions
apron front sink installation woes!
Comments (5)We recently got our Shaw's and measured it as we are trying to build the cabinet. The sink is supposed to be 10 inches deep but it is fractionally deeper in the center and tapers to the edges -- it is loaf shaped rather than cleanly rectangular and ever so slightly deeper on one side than the other. My husband had already made the enclosure thinking 10 inches and now he is taking it apart to shave off a bit to make adequate space for the deepest point in the sink. We were all warned to wait for the sink . . . ....See MoreDouble Basin 36" Apron Front sink (with lip?)
Comments (22)Before you go with copper, read some post about copper sinks - I think there are some on Houzz - do a search under "copper sinks" in the area of advice and even do some other internet searches on what people think of copper sinks. Copper takes on a patina that some people love, and others dislike. It will not look like it does new without a lot of upkeep - or be comfortable with copper patina. The two major materials for white farmhouse sinks are fireclay and cast iron. I had a cast iron sink previously and was very happy with it. It still looked good after 18 years so I put it in my basement kitchenette. No surprise I went with cast iron for my farmhouse sink. Also, I found I did not have to get a new sink base or do a major overhaul on my sink base with the "short apron" Whitehaven. I did consider the Ikea Domsjo but it does seem to get chipped as noted in the last post of this thread: http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2468250/ikea-farmhouse-sink-pics-and-opinions-please?n=50 I believe there are some acrylic farmhouse sinks - they are inexpensive but will scratch easily IMO - I really do not know much about them. If you are getting new cabinets and are getting a farmhouse sink base - you have a lot to choose from. The Whitehaven would be the easiest to install, but an experienced installer should be able to do a good job with any farmhouse sink. Rohl and Shaw make popular fireclay sinks but they are just as expensive or more so than the Whitehaven. Kohler does make other cast iron farmhouse sinks, but they are all more expensive than the Whitehaven. If you want to keep your original sink base, the Kohler is your best deal for durability and ease of installation. The Ikea Domsjo is a possibility, but even though much less $$, you could go through 2 or three in the lifespan of a Whitehaven - so in the end, not a savings. Here is a funny article which I found after I had decided on the Whitehaven and speaks to many of the same concerns I had. http://victoriaelizabethbarnes.com/apron-front-farmhouse-sink-options-decided-against-fireclay/...See MoreStuck on a SINK!
Comments (51)Hi again! Thanks for the feedback, everyone! We ended up going the safe route (what we consider safe anyway), and we chose an undermount stainless sink. It’ll be a single bowl, so I’ll still get the size I want, but I just couldn’t justify the farmhouse sink. I had way too many concerns ultimately — fireclay, enameled cast iron, and stainless — they all have their pros and cons. I was afraid of cracking, crazing, chipping, staining, scratching, you name it. Not to mention the Shaws classic just blended way too much with our cabinet choice. It was SO much white!! I felt the safest bet was to stick with what we already know and are used to!! I’ve never had an apron front, so I suppose I won’t know what I am missing :) That said, there was nothing like standing at that Shaws classic! Felt so much better than standing at an undermount!! Thanks for your feedback everyone!!...See MoreProper 2CM Apron Sink Built Up Edge Detail
Comments (0)I can't find the old thread that asked this question, so I'm posting it here. This is the proper edge detail when retrofitting an apron front sink into a 2cm top with a 2cm laminated front edge build-up. The rounded edge of the sink can't be adjacent to the stone or you get an ugly caulk gap; I had to shorten the overhang so the top died behind the rounded front edge: I prefer the look of a smaller positive sink ledge reveal, but I had to cut this one larger to eliminate bisecting the grinder cuts made by the original fabricator to install his dang clips. I still had to fill a few small ones in the back. I chipped the front of the first one of these I attempted to install. Set a thousand dollars on fire. Ouchie. Fortunately, I had another delivered several hours earlier. The repair is acceptable to a buyer looking for a 30% discount; this one wasn't....See More
PROJoseph Corlett, LLC
3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago
PRODebbi Washburn
3 years agoMackenzie Stern
3 years ago@Joseph Corlett, LLC @Debbi Washburn I should've said that the counters are being replaced as well. I was afraid of the gap for the whitehaven but everything else is too deep on the front where it would run into the doors
- PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
3 years agoI retrofit Whitehaven and other short apron sinks to framed and frameless cabinets regularly; it doesn't matter.
Remove the drawer above, set the K-5664 low on the Pete's Sink Mount Kit. Install the tops, silicone the sink flange, screw the Pesimoki until the sink is flush to the bottom of the stone, wipe away the excess silicone, cut the drawer ends and mount them flush with the lower doors.
- PRO
Debbi Washburn
3 years agoWhat is the dimension from the top of the cabinet to the top of your doors?
Make sure you are looking at the correct sink. There are 2 models 23 1/2 wide - one has the shorter apron. You should be able to fit this.
The apron is just under 7" on this model and you have partial overlay doors which gives you a little more!
Good luck!
@Joseph Corlett, LLC That drawer ends idea is great!! - PRO
PRODenny Shuty
3 years ago
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