edeevee, Are you having trouble with the manufacturers' web sites? Where have you tried, Mistubishi, Daikin, Panasonic, Fujitsi? There are a couple of ways of comparing mini splits to more familiar equipment. Compared to a more conventional, whole house, ducted system, the indoor heat exchangers are much smaller and most are installed with no ducts. It might be easier to compare mini splits to window units. Cut your window unit in half and put the noisy, outdoor part on a pad on the ground. Take the smaller, quieter, indoor part and mount it high up on the wall or in the ceiling and connect them with refrigerant pipes. (In between, make it a lot more efficient and comfortable with variable-speed blowers and compressor. Make the controls more sophisticated to increase efficiency and comfort as well. The ducted units can handle more than one room and are small so they might be hidden in the living space more easily, or boxed in in an attic to keep them within the living space. They cost more than the high-wall equipment as do the ceiling cassettes. There are also floor units, but I don't think they are used much. Normally, you have one high-wall unit in each room. Bathrooms are often not served this way. Alternatives for bathrooms are to keep the electrical resistance heat there, You can also use jump ducts in the walls to transfer conditioned air from room to room. As the number of (small) rooms increases in a house, the relative expense of installing mini-splits increases compared to a more conventional forced-air heat pump system. I have 7 indoor units. Due to my lifestyle and other reasons, I think it paid off for me to pay the extra money to get out of the ducted cooling mode.

Mini splits, as they are often called, are most often duct-free. Several types of indoor units are available in addition to the most common high wall mounted including ceiling cassettes, floor-mounted units, and minimally-ducted air handlers that can service more than one room. If "adjacent to the exterior heat pump" means ca. 80 linear feet, then, yes, that is limiting. In addition, there are elevation limitations. The installation elevation limitations for linear pipe length for a Mitsubishi MXZ-2B20NA (dual) are excerpted below. Piping length each indoor unit (a, b) 82 ft. MAX. Total piping length (a+b) 164 ft. MAX. Bending point for each unit 25 MAX. Total bending point 50 MAX.

Thanks again I found them (low stock) by searching for the item number off the old order form. JCP's "window Designer" is saying for window over 100" need two 216" long scarves, shows them overlapping over center window so tails hang down in between? Think I should order the same striped fabric and do scarves (I need to find/make medallions!) over all three "windows" in the room (bay, double window and slider), with the slider one hung at the same height as the others? Since this is FR (casual) should I look for old doorknobs (love that look), so should I just try to find plain medallions in satin nickel to match light fixture and my "cheap cleats" (drawer knob on a hanger bolt)? See the pic of the slider for finish on the knob. I also have 6 birdcage holdbacks that are kind of "U" shaped that I don't think I'll use in LR - so I can do the bay and the window with those, and slider with a matching (extra) rod if you think that will work. It would mean 1 big swag over the double window though - these have been discontinued too (at least I couldn't find them in the store again, and I never saw them online). Does anybody kno how you hang a swag from a "U" shaped holdback without the screws showing? Here is a link that might be useful: U shaped holdback

Hey There: Window Coverings and the design of the house must go together and furthermore you must keep the function in mind. In you case I do recommend to layer the window coverings... As I can see in your pictures, you might have a privacy problem if your don't close your coverings, but of course your don't want to sit all day in the dark. So as a first line of defense (literally spoken of course) you go with minimalistic pleated or honeycomb shades. They fit nicely into the window casing and operate bottom up and top down. This will give you privacy and light management and allow you to look outside and enjoy nature around your home. As the second layer you can opt for curtains to the side - either operable or just decorative. This combination is not to heavy to take over the rooms. Stay in lighter colors but don't match them...lighter for the blinds and a bit darker for the curtains. Good Luck with your project www.PleatedBlindsStore.com