jcalhun, The Anderson Security Door has only been correctly installed for a week, too soon to know for sure how I will like it. So far, it looks great. It is heavier than our previous storm door. Don't think that will be a problem. Need to paint the door facing, refinish the steel entry door, finish repair and paint the brick moulding. The Larson Security Door at Lowes and the Anderson Security Door look the same and have the same lock system (3 places locking). Most likely the same mfgr. made both doors. Lowes was more expensive total. The Security Door lock (part you turn) was too close to the door facing, however, the last installer reduced thickness of the facing board by 1/4th inch and now there is room for fingers to turn the lock.

First, sliders aren’t very secure, so almost any French door is going to be more secure. Years ago we replaced sliders w/ Anlin French doors in the DR. They use a multi-point locking system that is way more secure than the sliders. Ours are outswing, too, b/c if they were in-swing they’d be too close to chairs on that side w/ someone sitting on the chair. We got operating sidelights so we could have air flow w/ doors closed. I didn’t want a screen door for ease of entry/exit & looks w/ V-grooved glass. The sidelights are screened.

I just disassembled a doorway in my ~75 year old house and was amazed to find that only the hinge side had been shimmed and firmly fixed in place. The lock side jamb had been toenailed into the hardwood floor, and otherwise the whole thing was held in place (quite firmly) by nothing but the casings. Of course, that casing was 3/4" thick and 3 1/2" wide, which may be quite different, but the point is that not every part of everything has to be anchored as if it needs to resist a lot of stress, because many parts won't ever see much stress. Extra time and materials spent making things stronger than they need to be is money down the drain.

Actually, per Hardee's instructions, it may be done correctly: "Do not bridge floors with panel siding. A horizontal joint should always be used between floors." http://www.buildsite.com/pdf/jameshardie/HardiePanel-Vertical-Siding-Product-Data-1015262.pdf I have the board and batten-style siding on my house, too (except mine uses cedar) but I have much deeper eaves than you.... Anyway, I got confused for a sec. :p Anyway, see the dotted lines on your drawing showing the top plate and bottom plate? There has to be a joint there.