Time for me to get serious about my kitchen plan, help me sort it out!
Here are the listing photos from when we bought the house, all is essentially unchanged. This is our reality in terms of natural light, overall footprint, and flooring. We will either refinish the existing hardwood or replace it with new hardwood (along with the tile you can see that's in the front of the house), either way, the stain will remain a medium brown.
I have elevations.
We intend to go with Shiloh cabinets, in a flush inset door, likely a modified Shaker type. We have been considering a green stained finish called Moss. This is the sample that I ordered.
Questions:
1. Should we use this green all over the kitchen? Should we restrict it to the island? Do the island in something different? If we do another finish, what do you all suggest? We had been thinking of another stain, but will that just look like too much wood? In another thread, a lighter stain on Alder was suggested - something like the Shiloh stains Dusty Road or White Sands. Worried about how it would look with our red oak floors.
2. We want to replace the patio door, and re-think the trim and wood paneling that is currently there. What would look good?
3. Lighting needs to be totally updated - new fixture in eat-in area, new fixture over island, over sink, and what else? Bulkhead is being eliminated. Should we stick with recessed or do something else? What type of under-cabinet lighting?
4. What metal tones should we go for? We have been considering pewter.
5. Countertops - especially if doing green, I am thinking it should be simple. I love natural stone, but I think we need to let the cabinets be the star. I have been thinking of a neutral, creamy/warm white quartz, even though I am not a quartz super-fan. I don't think this kitchen supports clean white or cool gray tones, so I'm trying to steer toward warmth.
Here are my current guesses as to what might work:
Top: Eternia Summerside
Middle: Caesarstone Taj Royale
Bottom: Caesarstone Buttermilk
What would look good in this space?
Thanks!!!
Comments (14)
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Overlay/Inset Cabs: Help me Sort these pics out PLEASE!
Comments (7)Your old cabs are full overlay-the corner base cab has a partial lip it appears...apparently just on that cab. J has reveal, but not a standard reveal-maybe half inch reveal. Not seeing that too much anymore...in standard reveal cabs[not full overlay] the reveal is bigger.Pic A is standard reveal,which looks good and will save in your budget.[the dark monochrome color makes it work].K and L are full overlay. Is E a sample of what the man is describing with filler strip? G is very nice-the question is on the base-do you want framed or frameless-that's where storage space difference comes into play. Reveals are on the face frame and a function of the door dimensions....framed/frameless is the construction of the carcass. Frameless will always have full overlay.Framed can have a door with reveal or full overlay door.On pic G, I would do the uppers to match the lowers....the inset appearance on the tops is not that significant due to size of doors/darker color/smooth grain. Inset is nice where glass is introduced/lots of crown molding/latch hardware/etc. Can't go wrong with frameless lowers/full overlay and you could get standard framed for uppers with full overlay and save over the cost of doing it as the pic shows and still look beautiful. Pic A will cost someone much less and it is more than nice, but not high end as pic G is. One's budget drives how to get a desired look if time is taken and the Cabinet Company has some wood species/stain options/maybe an edge profile, even if inset or frameless/full overlay cannot possibly work due to budget. You're studying the looks/options of cabinet choices: frameless was traditionally a European thing-has caught on here-a bit more precision in construction is needed because the frame was used as part of really stabilizing cabinets in this country. Frameless I think is pricier, and is by no means the only choice. Framed with full overlay doors is quite standard fare-nothing at all wrong with that. Are you tired of your doors or need a new floor plan entirely??...See MoreTime to get serious on the world's worst kitchen
Comments (41)Thanks for posting that photo. Here's my idea: I moved the fridge to the inner wall, recessing it enough so that its case (not the doors, just the body of the fridge) extends 16.5" into the room. I made the lower cabs next to it 15", with the counter at 16.5" deep so that they dead-end into the side of the fridge cab. That few extra inches of depth will make it easier to make coffee, toast, etc in this area. There are upper cabs above this shallow counter for more storage, something like what you see in the left side of this photo: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-kitchen-contemporary-kitchen-toronto-phvw-vp~100348) [Contemporary Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2103) by Thornhill Interior Designers & Decorators Avalon Interiors Moving the fridge and recessing it into the laundry/utility room gives you the wider aisle you want plus it moves the fridge out of view from the front door. I moved the range to the opposite end of the counter run and sited it next to the window. The hood will run up against the window molding like this: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/kitchen-traditional-kitchen-detroit-phvw-vp~1872661) [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Ann Arbor Interior Designers & Decorators Laura Zender Design, Allied ASID Judging by your plan posted above, you should have 12-15" of counter to the left of the range. I moved the sink down the wall, nearly to the opening with just enough room for an 18" DW. 18" European DW hold as much as US 24" DWs so you're not giving up function but you are gaining more space in your small kitchen. Panel the DW to make it disappear. Check the selection of panel ready 18" DW at AJ Madison (see link). You will need to do some trenching in your slab to make this work but you gain a large amount of prep counter between sink and range with a window above. IMO, that is worth the expense. To the right of the DW is a china hutch that looks like a piece of furniture but is built in, something like this: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/monteverde-residence-traditional-kitchen-los-angeles-phvw-vp~57288) [Eclectic Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/eclectic-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2104) by Pasadena Design-Build Firms HartmanBaldwin Design/Build That gives guests a nice view when they come in the door. You could opt to put shelves above the sink and DW like this: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/flea-market-trixie-shabby-chic-style-kitchen-phvw-vp~134754) [Eclectic Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/eclectic-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2104) You could also hang artwork, decorative plates, wine rack etc on the wall above the sink and DW: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/charmean-neithart-interiors-llc-traditional-kitchen-los-angeles-phvw-vp~886242) [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by San Marino Interior Designers & Decorators Charmean Neithart Interiors, LLC. Wrapped around the corner on the wall facing the front of the house is a tall shallow pantry that looks like furniture, something like this: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/showroom-display-traditional-kitchen-boston-phvw-vp~96086) [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Boston Kitchen & Bath Designers Venegas and Company Perhaps you can re-purpose the armoire cabinet that's in the front room already. I put the bench/couch that is in your front room to use, making it a bench for a rectangular table. The two chairs can be placed against the wall next to the china hutch cab when not needed. My goal was to give you a better functioning kitchen while maintaining the charm of your home. In other words, I tried to reduce the utilitarian nature of a kitchen extended into the front room. Here is a link that might be useful: Panel ready 18...See MoreHelp me decide on my open Great Room floor plan! (kitchen included)
Comments (16)Benjesbride, what you say regarding dining/island makes sense, but unfortunately I have ~11'x16' space to fit in the kitchen. If I decide to rotate the kitchen the way you say it, then my kitchen island will be quite small. I too started out thinking of a longer island and thus came up with option 2, and am not able to find pictures to tell me if that would look ok or not. Secondly, currently the plan is that the Great Room will be mainly conversation area. TV will be in a separate room, so no need to consider TV-watchability. Mama Rachel, your idea of spice kitchen is great! That's the kitchen I started out "wanting". I had to abandon it halfway, however, because of space constraints. My whole house is ~2200 sqft, therefore allocating disproportionately large amount of space to the kitchen would have meant I gave up on some other priorities. Mama Rachel : regarding powder: we decided to ditch the powder because of the availability of full bath on that floor, which otherwise will be guest bath. We also wanted as much storage as possible, therefore decided on having a storage rather than powder. Anyway, here's the original plan. Note that we added ~5ft towards the courtyard and some square footage along top wall (which is facing backyard). I am working on sizing of the entry right now, because I think it's a bit too big for the house, but that space will NOT become available to the kitchen again due to the building rules....See MorePlease help me finalize my kitchen plans! :)
Comments (24)If you don't want to change windows, I still like the layout I posted earlier. You could do deeper cabinets on either side of the fridge and maybe move the fridge a couple inches closer to the slider. In my last kitchen I had a very small island (39X42) with the fridge directly opposite the stove and the island in between. I never once considered the island a barrier (maybe because the island was small). I usually removed items from the fridge to the sink area. Moving your stove down on the wall would give you a nice prep space and more storage near the stove. I believe you have 5 feet between the edge of your island as I drew it and your dining room table. That should work in your space. Use small tuck under counter stools. If you still think the walkway would be too small, you could do a nice lighted display case facing the dining room. Or just dining room storage. A peninsula could work, but I still like the fridge across the isle. I'm not sure seating works and I moved your stove down a bit to give you more room at the sink. Baking sheets to the left of the stove and pots to the right. Access to the corner from the dining room....See MoreRelated Professionals
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4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoEven though the island is not technically a barrier between the appliances, it does seem to be just floating in the space. I agree that a peninsula the same depth (one cabinet deep?) would be better, between the DW and patio door. Make sure the patio door opens on the left (from inside) and you might be able to include a seating overhang. Other than that I don't see glaring issues with the layout--DW is not in prep space; fridge, range and sink make a nice triangle; range is not in traffic aisle. I like the existing fridge wall with landing space and MW in upper cab--maybe flipped so fridge is not in doorway--with MW left of fridge. If fridge is on the end, you could consider a side-loading pantry as part of the fridge enclosure.
Edited to change the width of the cabinets.
kjb84 thanked mama goose_gw zn6OH- 4 years ago
- 4 years ago
If you prefer a drawer MW in the peninsula, I think that's fine (but more expensive initially and more expensive to replace). Just keep it on the end of the peninsula, near the fridge, or even have it open toward the fridge, so anyone prepping at the peninsula counter doesn't need to move for an open MW.
Another thing to consider is that the open DW door will block the cabinets in the peninsula, except those which are beyond the open door. You might want to keep dishes in the drawers on the end, for ease of unloading the DW, so in that case the MW would be better on the fridge wall (upper or drawer).
This is not exactly to scale, but illustrates the idea of dish storage:
kjb84 thanked mama goose_gw zn6OH 
PRO4 years agoI carry Shiloh so you can see a lot of my finished kitchen on my profile. Are you keeping the door trim the same color as is? It looks like a reddish poplar maybe? Shiloh's white sands has a gray/pinky edge to it. I would not put that in your home.
Below is a kitchen I did with their Durango Green (now discontinued :-(
Shiloh Cabinetry - Alder Caramel w/ Van Dyke Glz - Maple w/ Durango Olde World · More Info
Shiloh Cabinetry - Alder Caramel w/ Van Dyke Glz - Maple w/ Durango Olde World · More Infokjb84 thanked The Kitchen Place- 4 years ago
- 4 years ago
PRO4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
4 years ago- 4 years ago
- 4 years ago
kjb84Original Author