If your hardwood floor's original finish/sealer is an oil based polyurethane. Polyurethane is used to seal gym floors. Heavy wax buildup can be easily removed using Trewax Concentrate Instant Wax Remover. It is not sold in stores and must be purchased online. It is not made for use on wood floors, but it was the only thing I could find that said, "wax remover". I only tried it because I was told by a professional that it would not damage my original polyurethane finish. I was told that it takes a much stronger stripper like lacquer thinner to effect the polyurethane. I mixed 1/2 remover with 1/2 water and let sit for 3 to 5 min. then rinsed with a wet cloth. The orange glo wax buildup was gone. Some areas required a light scrubbing. I have a very large kitchen and I thought to speed up the process, I could mix with a little less water, so I mixed it a little stronger and I was amazed at how well it removed several years of old wax. Not once did it do anything to my original finish. I highly recommend this product,. It is the only thing that has worked for me. I have used everything under the sun over the last 2 years trying to remove the orange glo wax. . Trewax Concentrate Instant Wax Remover comes in a gallon and is only $18.99.

I had my floors all totally refinished (they were awful) about 10 years ago, - before all other refurbishments were done, which sometimes abused the floor finish (I'm sure my dog helped some :). The poly is mostly worn off and I'm now about to screen them before putting a few new coats on, re-crowning the totally finished place! In two spots there appears to be an oily-like substance - or stain - that got under or into what finish is/not left. I've tried regular cleaning methods with no change. How can I be sure these are 'cleaned up/out' after screening (I'm not sure if I'll be able to tell after screening) or perhaps there is something else I should have available or plan to do...? (If this was a piece of furniture with 'maybe a food stain, I might use a dark stain to try to blend all better, but I want to keep all of these floors the natural golden color with just poly.) Thank you for any help, info/advice! D.

I found this on https://www.gsa.gov/portal/content/113602 Removing Linoleum Adhesive From FloorsProcedure code:965001SSource:Ohj - Shirley Maxwell & James C. Massey, 9/30/92Division:FinishesSection:Resilient FlooringLast Modified:08/02/2016 REMOVING LINOLEUM ADHESIVE FROM FLOORS PART 1---GENERAL 1.01 SUMMARY This procedure includes guidance on removing the mastic adhesive left behind when linoleum flooring has been removed. Linoleum flooring was very popular from 1863 to 1974. It was used historically as an original floor treatment in some GSA buildings. Linoleum's chief ingredient was linseed oil, pressed from flax seed, which became a tough, elastic material when exposed to air. The process essentially consisted of mixing linseed oil and gum with ground cork or wood flour, and pressing it onto burlap or canvas. It was then glued down to concrete or wood floors using a mastic cement. See "General Project Guidelines" for general project guidelines to be used along with this procedureThese guidelines cover the following sections: Historic Structures Precautions Submittals Quality Assurance Delivery, Storage and Handling Project/Site Conditions Sequencing and Scheduling General Protection (Surface and Surrounding) These guidelines should be reviewed prior to performing this procedure and should be followed along with recommendations from the Regional Historic Preservation Officer (RHPO). PART 2---PRODUCTS 2.01 MATERIALS Clean, potable water Vinegar Citrus degreasing solvent such as "Limo Sol", or approved equal. Dry ice Chemical solvent such as isopropyl alcohol, paint thinner, xylol, lacquer thinner, or paint stripper. 2.02 EQUIPMENT Heat lamp or hot-air gun Putty knife or scraper PART 3---EXECUTION 3.01 ERECTION, INSTALLATION, APPLICATION NOTE: A waterproof glue is usually applied at the edges and seams of the linoleum; the center of the felt layers is usually attached with a water soluble paste. Soak the mastic area in hot water for 20-60 minutes or until soft.\ If this is not effective, try adding vinegar or high-strength citrus degreasing solvent to the water and then soak for 20-60 minutes until soft. If mastic still will not soften, try applying heat to the surface using a lamp or hot-air gun. -OR- Try freezing the mastic with dry ice to break the bond with the substrate. If no other methods are effective in softening the mastic, test a chemical solvent on the area. NOTE: Be sure to test in an inconspicuous area to determine appropriate chemicals and strengths before proceeding with cleaning. Scrape away the softened mastic using a putty knife or garden edger. END OF SECTION interesting................

To get rid of warmth (ie. red) from a RED-brown floor = get rid of the floor. I'm sorry but that is the truth of the situation. Red-brown doesn't like to play nice with grays. You can see that with the colour clash in the fireplace (yes...there is a flooring/fireplace colour clash) and the gray in the walls. Sure the green belt is throwing green into the space....but that only occurs when the sun is up. I would say the flooring was chosen to match the cabinets. Now that you are changing the kitchen to gray/white/blue or black, you are going to have a heck of a time working around the red-brown. To fix the problem with the floor colour, you have to change the floor colour. This is where a whole home/space approach is wise to consider when looking at a kitchen renovation. Now that the "match" to the cabinets is going to change, you will probably need to look at new flooring to help you move towards your goal.