When I lived there a green sand filter was standard with all new houses and well water. The water was green and smelled of sulfur. So what they called a green sand filter was just a tank filled with a chemical called potassium permanganate. Permanganate coates over the green sand every time it backwashes. It filtered particulates, sulfur and Iron out of the water and made it clear and less smelly. There are 2 types one for Sulfur approx $550 and one if you don't need sulfur removal $400 It did nothing for the softness of the water. And the water WAS hard. I had it tested by 2 companies before I got wise and purchased my own testing kit. $20 The iron in the water clogs up the softener so we used Iron out which is a treatment system that hangs on the outside and when added to the brine mix dissolves the iron in the chamber. You could get a whole house RO for $4k or so or you could just get a small one for drinking $150. or Buy a 2 stage whole house filter with a charcoal filter for taste and smell and a particulate filter from HD or Wall-mart for approx $50 and a water softer from HD or Sears for $450 and DIY. for under $500. I am almost finished my kitchen remodel and here we have city water and even though its not very hard is is WAY better with a softer. I also installed a charcoal filter because coffee tasted terrible made with unfiltered water. Especially on the days they chlorinate the water. You can also use those faucet mounted filters which contain a charcoal filter for drinking, and ice. I also have a RO system but I don't think I will use it unless, the water gets worse. This just scratches the surface in filtration systems. You can add many different types of filters depending on whats in your water. However as said RO gets 99% of everything. http://www.qualitywatertreatment.com/iron_filters.htm http://home.howstuffworks.com/question99.htm http://www.ampac1.com/?gclid=CI-jj67kjZQCFQgWiQodwHo4XA just 1 of hundreds.

Without a more detailed description or more detailed pictures the softener is either leaking at... 1. from the control valve assembly... an internal problem 2. from a connection at/to the control valve assembly... brine or drain line 3. from where the control valve screws onto the resin tan which is sealed with an O-ring. The threaded part of the resin tank has been known to crack if over tightened when installed. 4. from a structural failure of the resin tank... crack or separation or de-lamination of the material. Brand name resin tanks are warranted for 10 years if you can identify the brand and model and production date of the tank or have the receipt. By the time you buy a new resin tank and resin and gravel and do the work (or pay someone) it's smarter to replace the softener with an industry standard model that is correctly sized for your water conditions and water use. Look in the Yellow Pages for independent water treatment pros and get them out to give you a free quote. Post the details of what they recommend and we can give you our opinions.

Let's start with water analysis. Gather water reports and get your water tested. It matters not one whit what Ms. Brokovich says - analysis and facts matter. Fort Worth gets its water from the Tarrant Regional Water District, which does not treat water at all - all treatment is at the wholesale customer side (you water treatment facility). All a chlorine burn means is that the system is periodically, temporarily, switched from chloramines to chlorine as a method to kill bacteria which may be resistant to chloramines or in greater number due to excess runoff. This is fairly typical for surface water sources. Free chlorine levels are still required to fall within specific, safe guidelines, but you will notice a difference in taste and odor - the human nose can detect chlorine at very low levels. Odor doesn't make the water dangerous. So, post analysis and then we can help.

I know this is an older thread. however, I feel I could add some additional points to consider that I found on Qualitywaterlab when I was researching whole house water filters for my own home due to high PFAS concentrations in our water quality report. Here are some takeaways I've learned: Water test results: It's important to understand the quality of your water before selecting a whole house water filter and softener. A professional water test can provide you with information about the levels of contaminants in your home’s water supply, which will help you determine what type of filtration system is best for your needs. Type of filter: The type of filter you choose will depend on the size and complexity of your water system, as well as the types of contaminants that need to be removed from your water supply. Different filters are designed for different purposes, so it's important to understand what type best suits your needs. Capacity: It's also important to consider how much water you use in a day when selecting a whole house water filter and softener system. If you have a large family or use more than average amounts of water, then you may want to select one with higher capacity than normal systems offer. Maintenance requirements: Some whole house systems require regular maintenance such as changing out cartridges or cleaning sediment traps regularly while others are self-cleaning and require little upkeep over time. Consider which option works best for your lifestyle before making a purchase decision. Cost: Whole house filtration systems can range in price depending on their features and capabilities, so it’s important to compare prices between models before making a final decision about which one is right for you and your budget constraints.. Warranty/Guarantee: Many manufacturers offer warranties or guarantees on their products, so make sure that any product you buy has a good warranty or guarantee in case something goes wrong. This will help protect your investment and ensure that you get the most out of your purchase.