What the heck? Penstemon not fazed by -5 F cold nights.
Jeff Smith
3 years ago
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Winter protection/night
Comments (14)After having a horrific nightmare last night where my 2 windmill's had spear pull(my dream actually tortured me and I physically pulled them out), I went out and checked on them today. We have had a couple nights here in the mid single digits and much to my relief they were both still warm and dry with not so much as the slightest tip burn. All I did was mulch heavily,tie the fronds up, wrap rope light around the base up to the spear and then wrap the whole plant in several layers of burlap and mulch some more around that, when it is extremely cold/windy or a chance of precip I throw a tarp over them. For you nut's out there in the mid-west, let's all hope that winter is over quickly this year...unlike last....See MoreWinter/ Cold Hardiness
Comments (11)Yeah, I know the OP was confusing. Let me try to re-word it. For Hydra planted outdoors, those with buds that have emerged (green) or new growth from base (green), they are still green and are fine even in this cold weather. Hell, even the Noreaster with snow did not seem to faze the new growth at base level. The Hydra I grabbed from cold frame last week - lotsa leaves if not small, but set blossom on each end (counted at least 10 flower blossoms) - was removed from cold frame and placed indoors on a bay window. The ambient indoor temp is 70-72F. It's warm when there is sun during the day, but when either overcast or just@night, the ambient temp by the window is much colder - can't say how much, but it's definately colder by the windows. Maybe it's just environmental/thermal stress, but a majority of the leaves have gone from upright and ridgid, to soft and wilted. So the ? is are they leaves wilting due to not experiencing cold like we speak. --- GG We were typing at the same type. Hopefully these leaves unsoften themselves and perk back up. Or less continuation of leaves wilting......See MoreDo plants die from being too cold (although not frozen)?
Comments (7)Your plants are genetically programmed to tolerate a range of chilling temperatures. It's a 'range' because cultural influences are a part of the equation. Chilling can cause a breakdown of chloroplasts, which contains the green pigment chlorophyll. Absent chlorophyll, plants will express other pigments that were formerly masked by chlorophyll, such as anthocyanin and xanthophyll which tend toward the red/purple/maroon coloration. A frequent cause of purple leaves (very common at this time of year) is a deficiency of phosphorus (P) because P is required to make ATP and ATP is needed to turn sugars to starch and to load sugar into phloem for transport throughout the plant. No P = no ATP = no move sugars/starches = anthocyanin (purple pigment) builds up = plant turns purple. The most frequent cause of a P deficiency is cold soils, which is why so many plants planted out too early turn purple. A P(hosphorous) deficiency is not the only suspect cause of purple leaves. Nearly any environmental condition that puts the brakes on growth and the accompanying use of sugars, but does not limit sugar production (photosynthesis) can cause anthocyanin buildup and purple leaves. If your plants are programmed to tolerate sub-freezing temperatures, there is probably a "killing low temp" associated with the species. Being exposed to lows capable of freezing the soil solution is not a problem for this group of plants. If they're woody, they can even tolerate the intercellular water between living cells being frozen solid. What they can't tolerate is bound (intracellular) water freezing, which kills the cell. You can moderate temperatures outdoors by over-wintering plants in window wells or against the north side of a building (in the N Hemisphere) and mulching with leaves. Keep an eye out for rodent damage if you follow that path. ..... and don't forget to water plants wintering outdoors if they are not getting rained or snowed on. A shovel full of snow every 2-3 weeks should be about right for most situations. I water plants in the garage about every 3 weeks. Al...See MoreOverwintering in cold dark means exactly what
Comments (9)Yes, full dormancy for a temperate deciduous plant is typically a period of time below 45F. Temperatures can rise higher than that but should not remain at a higher level indefinitely as you risk the plant emerging from dormancy while still subject to cold damage. Having said all that, edible figs are commonly grown - and are reasonably sized trees - in parts of the country that seldom fall consistently below 45F for an extended period......like coastal California. But they also have minimal chance of cold damage in those climates. If too cold to remain outside through winter in your climate, even with protection, then I'd put in the coolest room you have but still provide light. It may not be a strong requirement as it would for an evergreen but it sure won't hurt and will not cause an early emergence from dormancy. Fig trees grown outdoors are exposed to plenty of daylight during the winter months....See Moregardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoJeff Smith thanked gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)Jeff Smith
3 years agosah67 (zone 5b - NY)
3 years agoJeff Smith
3 years agoJeff Smith
3 years agosah67 (zone 5b - NY)
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoJeff Smith
3 years agoSkybird - z5, Denver, Colorado
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoJeff Smith thanked Skybird - z5, Denver, ColoradoJeff Smith
3 years agoJeff Smith
2 years ago
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