Old House and Awkward Spaces
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3 years ago
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freedomplace1
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Design ideas needed for awkward space in front of house (w/pic)
Comments (5)Thanks everyone! Let me try to answer all the questions... holleygarden: The house faces east, and the porch is in full sun for a good part of the day. The screened porch side of the house is mostly shade (to the side and back of the house) and pretty boggy...but that situation is a whole separate post! :-) And yes, I think the space under the porch could be accessed from either side. I'm not sure if my guy would be totally satisfied with that, but I think I could talk him into it. leafy02: We're in north/central MS, which I think is zone 7 (?). We also have really heavy clay soil in this area, unfortunately. missingtheobvious: I'm really hoping he will be OK with accessing through the side panels. I'm not 100% sure, but I think they can be removed fairly easily, and I think they just pop in and out (no screws, or not many). I believe 2-3 ft. of space would be an ample amount of room, but I'd have to check with him about the equipment... We do currently have grass planted right up to edge of the house (the picture was taken toward the end of our construction phase). And yeah, I'm sure dragging heavy pots out of the way would get old pretty fast, but I don't think it would be frequent...maybe only once or twice a year? There will eventually be a railing around the porch, but it will probably take a few years before we are able to get to that due to all the other projects we have going on. The box planters are a thought...I've just been using hanging baskets so far. We have a lot of oak trees on our property, but there is nothing right by the house, so it would be nice to have a little shade. It's also pretty windy where we live, so we've discussed planting some trees as a windbreak, too. Thanks again!...See Morevery tight space in old home need stackable
Comments (4)Asko also makes smaller-size stackables that hold as much as a typical large capacity TL. They also make, or used to, a condenser dryer, though they are not as efficient as direct exhaust dryers (they make those, too.) Condenser dryers, which because of their adaptability to non-standard spaces, seem to find themselves in laundry rooms made from closets. This is not always a good thing, because condenser dryers really work best with unfettered access to fresh room air to operate as efficiently as possible. My own (ASKO) condenser dryer is in a very large room, and on some days it performs even less efficiently than normal when it certain room air temperature and humidity parameters are reached. They'd be reached much more quickly in a smaller, less-ventilated space like a closet. OTOH, Asko, which has a unique type of suspension, seems to perform better than some other brands when installed on second floors of old houses. I have both Miele and Asko machines installed side by side and the ASKO has less case vibration than the Mieles. I don't want to leave you with the impression that I only recommend ASKO for second floor installations. Both Bosch and Miele make similar machines, but at least some people have had vibration problems (perhaps due to unresolved installation issues, as well) in second-story installations. My own machines have always been on concrete floors so I have no personal info on that, other than observing my machines, all correctly installed, side by side. One other advantage of ASKO machines is that they need only have a cold water plumbed in as they heat all their own water during the cycle. On older models of Miele machines (mine for instance) it is possible to jury-rig a satisfactory cold water only feed, but I am not sure about Bosch or the newer Mieles. Not having to run a new, long hot water line is some savings. It is offset by the need for a 220V service, but you were likely to have to have one anyway since most closet-installed dryers are electric, not gas, because of gas ventilation issues. And all of these brands/models (Asko, Miele, Bosch) require only one 220V service line as the washers and dryers are interconnected and fed from the same plug. As for sizes, I think ASKO now makes a stackable 220v model that handles 13 lbs of dry laundry. To assess this for your own use, try weighing a couple baskets of laundry the way you are now sorting it. If your typical loads are now 13 lbs, or less, you'd need no change in your regimen to adapt to a FL. (The machines look small, but hold a quite surprising amount.) HTH, Molly...See Morevapor barriers in crawl spaces of old houses
Comments (8)Yup, you should put a vapor barrier down on the dirt floor of the crawl space. You might even want to put one down on the floor of the full basement and pour a second layer of concrete there. Some people use poly sheets, but there are better more long-lasting, and less permeable products specifically for VB. The biggest deal about installing a VB is sealing the seams and then sealing it to the inside of the foundation. Since you have a poured foundation, the sealing shouldn't be too hard to. You asked about whether it was a good idea to add VB to an older house. The answer is yes, because nowadays we go to a lot of trouble (in the name of energy savings) to tighten up our houses so moisture vapor that rises from the soil has nowhere to go. That's when you see sticky doors, musty smells etc. It won't hurt the soil or damage the house to install the VB. It's one of those things that yields a good, pretty immediate, payback in improvement in the living atmosphere. You asked about plaster cracks in another post: simple answer, don't caulk (or spray foam) the ones in the walls or ceilings because they really won't stay invisible for long. If you haven't the time to fix them now with joint compound, or the taping/replastering technique you read about, just go ahead and paint over them if you're using latex paint. They will still show, and probably drive you nuts and you will have to repaint after you fix them later, but at least you'll feel as if something got done. Repair of plaster cracks can eat up a lot of time, but it is not hard to do. Some can simply be filled with joint compound and feathered out. Some need to be cleaned out and then refilled. Some will reappear, no matter what. The reappearing ones need to be marked with a straight-edge drawn line and watched as they may indicate some structural issues. It would be fine to use caulk (with backer rods if necessary, in wide cracks) in the cupboard. Another option is to cover the gaps with additonal trim pieces. But before you plan on storing linens figure out why it's smelling dirty and correct that! Spray foam is very hard to make look good it always looks like some bulbous, scary, fungus, even when painted. I have used it, though in desperation. If you search here for vapor barriers/ or vapor retarders you will find a link I posted awhile ago to a manufacturer of a good one. Molly...See MoreFixing an old house floor plan - cross post w/ The Old House
Comments (6)It was NOPSI when I lived in New Oreleans, and in rental shotgun houses...NOPSI claimed a large part of my paychecks! New Orleans has a lot of Energy Raters, the highest concentration in the state actually. Entergy has made use of some of these raters in their efficiency program Energy Smart. here are a couple of links for you to check out: http://www.energysmartnola.info/one-stop-shop/ http://www.energysmartnola.info/for-your-home/ not being in that area anymore, I don't know how this program works..but you can find out if you are interested. my only advice would be to involve yourself with an experienced rater there in N.O. someone with experience in old homes...the newer raters I met may have the training... but couldn't tell gas from electric heat systems, or know how to identify balloon framing. so look for someone who has 10+ years of experience. La. DNR also has list of energy raters state wide, their efficiency incentive program isn't still in effect...but last time I checked the list of active raters was still online. DNR(dept natural resources) provided the training for all of us back in 1999. so they have a good handle on who knows their stuff...and who doesn't. it is hard to see detail in your posted plans. so I'll keep my questions fairly general. my first two concerns are air sealing & hvac system. I know you have a partial ' basement' (LOL) are electrical & plumbing exposed? was there ever a central hvac system installed? if basement isn't full size of house...what access is there to the part of the house without basement? how much room is there between ground & house? 3'...4'....more? is house all electric or is natural gas provided? as to heating...do you have a prefrence? if all electric..then look research heat pumps...great wintertime savings in our area. (I'm south central La these days) have you looked at mini split units? condenser unit outside, individual air handler units that hang on walls in rooms. I can't tell if your layout would work for this or not. is there a space in your home you could make into heating system closet? have you had any hvac companies come out to look at the house yet? involving hvac company never starts too early. it may be that ductwork will need to be installed during the reno. if you can't give up the sq ft for system inside house...I've seen people put the heating system in the 'basement'. quite a few flooded after katrina, but its not an everyday occurrence, and depending upon what part of town your house is located in...flooding is something to consider. I know uptown floods in a hearbeat with heavy rains...but areas like bywater stay dry. the top floor...full attic or are there walls of the living space that are shared with attic space? is attic space large enough to house heating system? air sealing.. there are really two ways to air seal. caulk, backer rods & more caulk which can be diy..or foam insulation. one is inexpensive & time consuming...the other expensive & fast. foam insulating the roofline will be biggest bang for the buck. then putting heat system & ductwork in attic keeps it in a semi conditioned space, so that you don't have ducts to cool the house in a 140 degree attic. by moving air & thermal barriers to roofline, a lot of the air leakage sites in ceilings are depressurized, so that house isn't sucking hot dirty humid attic air into the house to clean, dehumidify & condition when central unit is running. as most of our heat gain/cooling loss is through the ceiling into the attic space creating a tight air barrier, and thermal barrier (insulation) is very important. we use open cell in the attic roofline, depth to equal R-value required ( R-25 for cathedral for example is 6- 6.5" deep) also if house is balloon framed, foam seal at eaves to attic floor will stop air movement in walls. we need to air seal our walls...but insulating walls here isn't high on our list of things to do. foam in walls...is a huge waste of money. the next place for foam is under the floors. here we use closed cell. to keep moisture from ground from being sucked into the house. 2-3" is sufficient. this will also seal bottom of balloon framed walls. I've had issue with some of the foam insulators in N.O., because I am one picky b!tch. unlike most energy raters I oversee install of foam and test for air leakage with foam co on site, so that they can catch any leakage sites then without an added trip. as these companies expand into my area...they don't stay long. over the years I've learned which companies will actually create air tight seals...and who doesn't. and fyi...it isn't always the big companies that do it right. owner/installer companies are more willing to learn how to do it right. and the install of foam, just like the install of the hvac system is the key to the whole thing. ok...there are your questions to answer & things to think about for today. I'll check back after you reply. and think about investing in a blower door test of the house at minimum. this will identify leakage sites that need to be sealed. if you have ductwork, spring for the duct test also. better to know what you have to start with..what you need to do... and have it tested when completed. this way you have a goal to work towards...and an idea of how to do it. best of luck...See MoreHU-187528210
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