Tomato products
5 years ago
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- 5 years ago
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comparing pruned and not pruned tomato production?
Comments (12)lonmower - Like you I'm in a cool summer climate. We're in a clearing in the woods in western WA, so a bit cooler yet. Once the sun lowers in mid August we get even more dappled shade for part of the day from the tall trees. I have pruned before thinking it was the right thing to do. It wasn't worth the time or lower harvest plus when there is a hot spell you get sunscald like was said. I have pretty good air circulation, so that's not been a problem even with an intensively planted row. You could try pruning one plant & see what you notice. I either pruned or not, so can't really compare one plant to another. I just prefer to let the tomatoes grow like crazy in June hopefully blossoming & setting fruit into July. My goal is 5 trusses of fruit per plant. If I pruned them I would be removing chances of fruit. In a long season climate you could prune and still get a good harvest. I know my 5 trusses is meager, but a reasonable goal for my short season. I plant more plants to try to make up the difference and count every vine ripened tomato a blessing. I encourage the tomatoes to ripen by stopping watering in August & only water if plants wilt. I have lots of organic matter in my soil + mulch + soakers to water. Around Labor Day if not right before I cut any blossoms & small fruits. Once temps are below 50 degrees again I bring in all fruits to ripen inside because when it's cold like that they lose flavor and just rot. Below 50 degrees the garden becomes a refrigerator, which is good for fall & winter harvesting of cool weather vegetables, but not warm weather ones. Others in my area can keep them producing until frost especially with some protection after that 1st early light frost in October....See Moretomato production
Comments (10)Part of the problem is that large-fruited tomatoes tend to stop setting fruit once daytime highs are hitting about 92 degrees or higher and nighttime lows are 72 or higher. In my part of OK, we had those temps beginning in the second half of May. If you want to plant large-fruited varieties here and get good fruit set, you need to transplant large, healthy transplants as early in the gardening year as possible....preferably around the date of your average last frost, or earlier than that with frost protection. Most of my large-fruited tomatoes had fruit on them by the first week in May and some had fruit by the first week in April (and I'm not including the purchased 'cheater' tomatoes in this discussion...they had flowers in Feb. and fruit the first week of March). Because my plants set fruit early, I've been picking tons of fruit, many in the 1 lb. and larger range. Since mid-May, though, fruit set on those same plants has been poor, but I expect for good fruitset to occur right now during this cool and mild week. If your plants don't set fruit before the temps get too high, then all you can hope for is a cool spell, like we have this week, or be prepared to wait until fall when temps fall back down into the right range. Tomato plants that produce bite-sized tomatoes are not affected by the heat nor are most paste types. Regular tomatoes that set smallish tomatoes, say those that are smaller than 8 or 10 oz., also tend to keep setting in heat. That's why a lot of the recommended varieties for Oklahoma and other hot areas are hybrids that produce fruit in the 6 to 8 to 10 oz. range....because they actually will produce. If you're in a very humid part of the state, high humidity worsens the problem. In a drought year with very low humidity, I still get fruit set on large-fruited plants at high temps, but in an average year with high humidity, I don't. The main problem with tomatoes this year is exactly the heat and humidity....we got too hot too early and many areas had heavy rainfall and correspondingly high humidities. Dawn...See Moretomato production how do you do the numbers.
Comments (3)My Yield goal is 20-25 Lbs of No.1 fruit per plant. Since this is my livelihood, I'm after perfect No. 1 fruit. Selling "Grade-outs" is more hassle than it is worth. I'm using 5-6 Sq ft per plant. If I opened it up the yield/plant will go up, if I crowd them together more the yield/plant will drop. Simple Physics. By crowding, there will be less air movement (disease issues) more plant material (labor and materials per sq ft) and smaller fruit. I use yield/plant because when we start picking, I pretty much know what 95% of my expenses are so it's easy to determine a sale price that will include profit. I've had times where there were 40 lbs+ No. 1 fruit! I've also had times where we struggle to come up with 12 Lbs....See MoreProgresso Tomato Products
Comments (20)Tomato growing and processing is a big business in California's Central Valley. Though the summer, large trucks with big open trailer bins of tomatoes, so numerous almost seeming like truck caravans, can often be seen on Hwys 5 and 99 taking tomatoes from the fields to the processing plants. Most commercial tomato products of the various brands have been produced from forms of processed tomatoes (diced, puree, paste, etc) produced under contract with a processor. Each brand can add its own seasonings to their final products but the tomatoes often come from a common source....See More- 5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
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