When we used unglazed Italian porcelain tile in our shower walls, we used the 18 inch squares (or was it 16 inch)....but I opted for the same kind of tile, unglazed porcelain, in the 1/2 inch mosaic form mounted on 12 x 12 sheets for the floor of the shower. I figured that it would be no problem to slope toward the drain, nor would it cause any slippery footing issues. The other day as I stepped out of the shower with no mat on the larger tile there, my foot slipped. I caught myself, so no harm done. But I know it was a good choice for the shower. I like the 1/2 inch size of the small mosaics. There are a lot of other choices you could make too, like the pebbles, or even glass mosaic. Lots of pretty baths pictured on this forum with different material on floors in the shower, than chosen for the rest of the bath. Some photos showing the shower tiles. LARGE tiles are also on floor of this bath, and on the walls of the shower. The 1/2 inch mosaic unglazed porcelain sheets are only on the shower floor. A decorative border insert I did not use the flash here and the color is off. And here is the marine grade light in the shower. It has a gasket to make it water tight for use in wet environments, but it is not what I'd call "waterproof." It is over the entry to the shower and does not show except when you stand inside the shower.

What matter most is if your vent is small or large, long or short, flat-wall or corrugated . It's the tube that carries exhaust air outside. Also important is the available air (e.g. door gaps) to allow incoming air to replace the air that gets "exhausted". There is nothing significant between 110 and 80 cfm, for all intents and purposes. Quiet operation is your main goal. The noise one might hear if the fan were turned on prior to installation is not the noise made after installation. All the vent "tube" factors listed above make a difference in terms of whether or not the fan has to push very hard against a lot of air resistance or if it only pushes reasonably hard. Some fans make a lot more noise when conditions are sub-optimal, some don't make a lot more noise. Manufacturers don't compare their products against competitors and publish results, but they could do this if a hundred people asked for it. Real world installations are the thing to compare, not showroom installations where the vent tube only runs a few feet and then blows air back into the same room.

When I read the subject I was thinking about the same:while floor-to-tile is great for a minimalistic look it eats an extra couple inches in the process. I've got a very similar bath that I did few months back. We did not do floor-to-ceiling tiles but making the space look wider was certainly on our mind. I'm guessing that your vanity will be along the long wall (there's not much scope to have it anywhere else). A large mirror (not a framed one; because framed ones tend to run small and do not cover wall-to-wall expanse) covering a considerable expanse of the wall would open up the space. As an example, our mirror runs across the vanity and stretches all the way over the toilet; and ends where shower tiles begin. Height-wise, it starts just above the vanity and extends upto a light fixture. Also, Choose bath rugs etc that could be laid in a linear pattern across the floor -- they will streth the eye sideways. Don't worry; you will be fine after the mirror. A mirror does open up the space. Do post pix for us all to see! Here is a link that might be useful: My finished bath thread

We are in the midst of a remodel and the framers have already started!! We have an existing bathroom (approx. 5x8) for which we are opening a doorway for direct access to a bedroom. We want to retain access to this bathroom from the hallway, so we are installing a pocket door. It is an older home and I have a 32" x 68" door that matches the existing doors to use for the pocket door. It is heavy, solid wood. The contractor is going to use Johnson Hardware for the framing (am waiting on more detail for the hardware). It is being installed in 2"x 4" pocket (no room for anything larger). This is our forever home, so we would like for everything to last for 30 more years :-). Some questions: 1. As mentioned, the door is heavy. I read on a forum somewhere that a contractor had used the Johnson Hardware for the framing, but had used the glides on the bottom from Hafele. Has anyone else tried this or have any suggestions? 2. I'm not certain as to how smoothly/easily the door will glide once installed. We have two other pocket doors to the house, but they are over 50 years old and take a small amount of effort to pull closed. This will be my daughters bathroom and she is 8. Should I install soft close on either end of the pocket door (wondering about little fingers getting smushed or door closing into the pocket too quickly)? Has anyone used these? I've seen the videos and not sure it would be more frustrating for kids to have the soft close. 3. Instead of using the pulls on the 1 3/8" side of the door, has anyone ever installed a bar handle for a privacy/bathroom door on the "outside" of the door, or would this be too odd (our house is more traditional than modern)? I thought this would be easier for kids to operate...but I can't find any pics online except for exterior or non-privacy doors. I did find the picture below...not sure I've posted it correctly from Houzz. The door would also need a lock...see question 4 below. <div><a href='https://www.houzz.com/photos/gb-honed-range-projects-contemporary-bathroom-brisbane-phvw-vp~10854162' target='_blank'><img src='http://st.hzcdn.com/simgs/50112acb03431552_3-4391/contemporary-bathroom.jpg' alt='GB Honed Range Projects' border=0 width='214' height='320' nopin='nopin' /></a></div><div style='color:#444;'><small><a style="text-decoration:none;color:#444;" href="http://www.houzz.com/pro/australmasonry/austral-masonry" target="_blank">Photo by Austral Masonry</a> - <a style="text-decoration:none;color:#444;" href="https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2103" target="_blank">More contemporary bathroom ideas</a></small></div> 4. Because the door has been used as a swing door, there is a round hole where the knob would be. I understand that there are blanks that can be used to fill the hole and be sanded and painted. I anticipate that most of the time the door will be closed to the hallway - so very visible. Should I use a round privacy lock for the door (I was looking at the Linnea line) to use instead of trying to fill the hole? Would this look strange with a bar handle as mentioned above? 5. Other option could be to flip the door around so that the hole side is the side that recedes into the pocket wall (though plug would still be visible) and install a mortise kit like the Emtek and forgo the bar handle altogether. 5. Because this is a privacy door, I'm having the frame of the door jamb have a "lip" on both sides that the pocket door will slide into to lock so that there is no slight crack at the opening...no question but is there anything else we may not have thought of? Any advice would be MUCH appreciated!