I'm in the midst of gutting my bath, too, and had similar decisions to make about handling the end of each run. I had a hard time finding images of 3" bullnose (I'm not a fan of the 2x6 vertically), but finally did - see image #22. I had also considered using 1/4 rounds, but again, didn't really want the vertical end element. I don't have a window in mine, but I like the suggestions you've gotten. As for crown, I'm using DalTile 3x6, running bond, (not tiling the ceiling) and was going to use the crown molding from their Simple Elegance collection to finish off the top. Since that molding is pretty much flat, more like a door casing, and wood crowns are angled, and matching them up would not look so great, my GC suggested running a vinyl crown around the entire room, including the tile tub alcove. I understand that it can be treated just like wood. (I had a wood crown throughout before, but tile ended about 6' up the wall) Just another idea .... Here is a link that might be useful: image 22

Hey, I actually work for an upholstery company that also does blinds and window treatments. I highly recommend you take the measurements yourself to save any fees from having them come out to measure. The only thing left would be installation. Just measure the height, widthe and depth of the wood trim around the window, on it's inside points. For your glass doors, or taller windows, there is something called solar shades ( a company named graber offers them) They are a porus plastic that reduces glare and brightness but still lets you see out, and people from the outside have trouble seeing in because of the glare on the glass. You can hang the panels like curtains, but most people opt for a pull down roller shade..? The other peice of information I have to offer is that loew's and home depot offer a competitor discount. Get a quote from both places for the exact same product and service. Then, go to the most expensive place, and they'll match the competitor price AND reduce cost by 10%-20% if you explain at the service desk. so if loews is 100$ and home depot is 110$, go to home depot and pay 90$. Hope this helps.

Good morning Julie of Minnesota, I would suggest that in your situation a triple pane window with dual LowE coatings (glass surfaces 2 and 5) as well as an argon (if the unit you choose has a "wide" airspace between the lites) or krypton (if the unit has a "narrow" airspace between the lites) would best suit your needs. In addition, I would probably suggest that you consider either vinyl or fiberglass window frame/sash rather than wood because you will be generating a lot of moisture (obviously) and that may not be the ideal environment for a wood window - unless you want to do a good bit of maintenance - as you have already seen. Both U-value and wind resistance can be affected by whether you choose operable or fixed units. All operable windows have some air infiltration - some a good deal more than others - but fixed windows are generally pretty good at keeping outside air outside. A good fixed triple pane window (as described above) should get you a U-value in the .18 neighborhood - plus or minus a couple of hundredths. Depending on style, a good triple pane operator should get you a U-.23, again plus or minus a few hundreths. And we must never forget installation. A good install will help your window achieve what it was designed to achieve - whereas a bad install, well, we don't even want to go down that path.

I've done showers that had all kinds of windows. I'm not saying it can't be done. BUT. be aware there's a risk associated with it. <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Bill_Vincent/media/Flaherty033.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="" border="0" alt=" photo Flaherty033.jpg"/></a> <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Bill_Vincent/media/Allen120.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="" border="0" alt=" photo Allen120.jpg"/></a>