personally I would switch the kitchen and the little hall area all to LED waffer lights you can get 6 packs pretty well priced. for the nook, I would pull from the stair railings and go black maybe with some gold. I think you need working light and buying pendants now for a kitchen you will gut seems like a waste, plus it will open the space up and make the island less of a focal point. I am going to be doing that in my similar kitchen.

If you ever do another post just add pics to the original BTW this is what happens when a cabinet sales person designs your kitchne the lighting needed to be addressed beofore cabinet install so now you need a lighting designer a safe way is to add pot lights out from the upper cabinets far enough so the light lights the work area and does not make shadows on that work area. This will take about one hour of a lighting designer time and IMO well spent.

The kitchens pictured below are larger than yours, but I included these pictures because they show the recessed lighting. Sometimes recessed lights are photoshopped out of professional photos. The pendants shown would also provide better quality light than a lantern type fixture so if you decide to look at different fixtures you'll have an idea of what might work better. In a small kitchen sometimes it's better to just have recessed lighting and skip the pendants. I don't have pendants and I wouldn't call my kitchen small, but it's not large, either. I don't miss them, and I won't add them when it comes time to remodel. I am just going to have a small chandelier over my kitchen table. The placement of recessed lights is such that the lights illuminate the counters. The best time to have them installed would be now when everything is already torn up.

- Sink: It looks like there is an upper cabinet with an UCL. The UCL's are drawn as hardwired units. If so realize you will see the underside of the cabinet there (as it should be higher to give space for your forehead) and it's UCL. If continuing with a cabinet+UCL there, I'd still have a can light there. - Probably need a can over the exterior door area. - With the can by the door ^, then the cabinet section near it (2-30" cabs?) only needs 1 can. - You should have a can(s) for the ref and flanking Pantry/oven (?) which will also help light the entry openings. - If the exterior door is a back door entry then should probably have some 3-way switches. - Before you finalize lighting, and green light the cabinetmaker, it might be wise to evaluate your Kitchen layout. There is a pinch point and what looks like a 24" entry opening. Custom cabinets seems an unnecessary expense. - If this drawing is dictating electrical placement (as opposed to just for fun) then it needs to be reviewed.