You take a smple with the least amount of UV exposure to a reputable paint store where the pros shop, like Sherwin Williams. The color sample has to be at least quarter sized, but they can match it, no problem.

Im from Pitt. area as well, used to be a paint contractor a few years back. I was always a fan of PPG and BM products. I never got into SW products, perhaps just a personal preference so dont let that sway your decision. If it were me, id definately suggest PPG's timeless. Only other thing I see that raises my brow is "5. Apply one coat of Exterior Solid Stain on all wood areas, Exterior Latex on Garage Doors and Tudor paneling and Exterior Oil on Front and rear doors" I do not believe in only 1 coat. You cant get the even coverage and durability with one heavy coat that you can with two lighter coats. Ive been out of the business for a while now but I believe two coats is even industry standard now. Other than that, looks good from what I can see.

If you are doing this work in place, then there is no question that refinishing wood is more time consuming than painting. To refinish properly, doors are all removed and sent out to be stripped. Frames are stripped in place, drawers are removed as well. Then sand, stain sand stain and finish coat which coule be an oil or a polyurethane. For brush painting, you can get away with sanding the painted finish and then painting, either once or twice. Painted cabinets aren't always made of cheaper woods: our newly finished kitchen, (today our first day of cooking!) is a green shop paint finish over maple. Good luck

The 'guy' just wants the work and has little understanding/willingness to do what needs to be done. ANY finish (regardless of what it is) that is failing (peeling, etc) can and will cause the next layer to fail. It is simply the way of the world. Whenever you go over top of something, you are relying on the bottom layer's adhesion. Your 'bottom' layer is letting go (poor adhesion to no adhesion). You would then rely on this 'poor' adhesion to hold ANOTHER layer in place for 10 years or more. And that is simply unrealistic. The world of physics doesn't work that way. Once the bottom layer lets go, it will cause every layer ABOVE that to let go as well. I would plan on using whomsoever suggests removal and then repainting/sealing. The 'guy' who says he'll go over top of old/failing product is not worth the return phone call. His plan/finish WILL FAIL. We can guarantee it. Because the world of physics tells us it will fail.