I made a header out of pvc pipe (it is so easy, even a cave man could do it) ":^) to go across the upper end of my garden with hose bibs (faucets) every 36 inches apart. The header connects to the main supply line along the garden fence with a quick connection and can be quickly and easily removed. I can hook seven, 75 foot hoses onto the header and water one or more rows at a time. Some things will depend upon your soil, temperatures, how much rainfall you get and whether or not you have some good mulch. But I usually deep soak the rows that need it about once per week or every ten days. More often in the hotter, dryer part of the summer. I also mulch heavily with shredded oak leaves if I have them, some coastal bermuda is my second choice. I have a better picture somewhere but without looking for some time for it, will give you an idea of what I am talking about. With my soil and mulch, normally I can open a faucet just over a quarter of a turn open and let it run for an hour to an hour and a half and it will soak deeply along the row. I made a probe out of a piece of 1/2" steel rod about 4 foot long with a cross piece welded on top like a T and the bottom end sharpened some. It does not take much experimenting to learn from the resistance encountered, when the soil down deep is getting too dry and hard and needing water. It is really a lot easier than it sounds, as you can see here in this first about how long the steel probe is. Then, you can see in this how deeply I was able to shove it down into the conditioned clay beneath the row without too much resistance. That tells me that there is ample and adequate moisture down to that depth so that those deep roots can take up moisture and nutrients. I could have dug holes to check the moisture but that would be more of a surface thing and might destroy some roots, or I could buy a moisture meter, but then again, It would only reflect the moisture near the surface. I like what I came up with here for several reasons, cheap, easy, efficient and tells me more than the other methods which I mentioned. I let the plants get up a little way then string the soak hose right next to the plants, hill a little dirt up over them (perhaps an inch or two) put my cages in place then add about three to four inches of mulch. You may notice in the pictures of the probe above, the soak hoses are not visible, but they are there, doing their fine job.":^) I hope this helps some. Bill P.

I agree with bluekitobsessed - unless you need it for privacy I like the uncovered windows. Otherwise, I agree with you on the bamboo - that would continue the lovely peaceful feel you have created without detracting too much from the simplicity that makes it feel so soothing. I love everything about your room - beautiful job.

Yep, a pre-midlife crisis project. Something I've wanted to do for 10 years now. My plans? Well, let's just say, I've obsessed....um, er...thought about the design for the last 5! So, yes, my design...LOL

Those windows are crying out for custom treatments!!! I love eyebrow arched windows and you can do fantastic coverings on them. But alot of those would require a professional. Are you planning on doing custom? If not - my suggestion would be to do stationary panels either hanging 1 rod across the very top above the arch, or 2 rods - one on each side above the window. I personally don't like hanging rods between the transom and the lower window. I think that cuts the window in half and shortens the ceiling height. Your windows look pretty tall and I'm not sure you'll find ready mades those lengths. If you can swing custom treatments - these would be the rooms to do them. It would make a bold statement. Here are a few ideas that I would suggest if I treated them: Hang point to point swags on medallions following the shape of the arch and stationary side panels tied back on the outsides. Or hang slouch panels from medallions and follow the arch. It would look really nice to accentuate the arch!