Mine is a Frigidaire range - assuming the products use the same code, I don't know, as I haven't had that happen. You should still be under warrantee. Fingers crossed for you, as I really like my range.

@artemis, Cooktop just installed last week, sigh, and husband is quite annoyed by useless new technology...

Here's a link to the wiring diagram. It has error codes

Fridigaire cooktop wiring diagram

Induction Cooktop owner support

This must be very frustrating. Good luck

A tech document I found says C016 is a fault of the/a potentiometer (presumably meaning an element heat control). Corrective action is 1) turn off power to the appliance [at the circuit breaker] for 30 seconds to reset the unit; 2) replace the user interface board if the problem continues.

@dadoes, unfortunately, turning off power didn’t work. Hopefully, they will replace the board.

"----A tech document I found says C016 is a fault of the/a potentiometer (presumably meaning an element heat control). Corrective action is 1) turn off power to the appliance [at the circuit breaker] for 30 seconds to reset the unit; 2) replace the user interface board if the problem continues.----"

Interesting tech advice which puzzles me.

A potentometer is a variable resistor (an adjustable resistor, a hardware). If it fails, it is broken and cannot be reset. Some software glitches can be reset by restart, but not hardware failure, as far as I know.

dcarch

"Stax

You don't reset the resistor/potentiometer, you reset the alarm code.-----"

Please read that again. Thank you.

dcarch

It says reset the faulty unit, not the alarm code.

Thank you for your advice just the same.

dcarch

Not really. I know I have poor reading comprehension skills. But It reads to me what it is saying is that if option #1) resetting the potentiometer fails, them go to repair option #2) replace the interface board.

dcarch

Enough! Call the manufacturer and find out what it is!

Can’t wait to see what the store and repair people say. I plan to call first thing in the morning. It was purchased last month, but just installed last week. So yes under warranty and I’ll definitely buy extended warranty. Stay tuned folks!

Whatever defective part(s) they find and replace, ask to buy an extra for future replacement.

Most of the time with digital electronics, the parts cannot be repaired. They are just simple plug-in replacements. Some of them you can do yourself.

Out -of-warranty repairs can be very expensive.

dcarch

Thanks for the tip, dcarch (:

Thank goodness nancyjane stepped in as a moderator.

Ah, there you are, Stax. I see you did the DD (dirty delete) on your comments.

I deleted my comments because nancyjane told me to... and no one seemed to agree with my thoughts. You and dcarch7 , etc, etc can help the OP understand what to do.

Stax FWIW, I read it as you read it. Reset the unit in case it set off a bad code, if the problem persists here’s what you need to replace. Pretty clear to me.

Some comments above suggest that the writer has never dived into an induction cooktop. No electrician without some specific training or a willingness to study the maintenance manual should do so. (Also true of electrical engineers.) Appliance techs will be the ones to pull the unit and replace boards. And in this case, with a new unit still under warranty, appliance techs will be who you will get. And if they find a different board to be the problem, or that a board failure has propagated to another board, then they can order the added parts. A DIY repair will turn out to be expensive.

Extending the topic to a point I've made before. For induction units, it may be cost effective to buy extended warranties and treat the combined costs over the total warranty period(s) as a rental rate. Frigidaire induction cooktops are about the lowest cost of the full power units (I have a Gallery) and the combined prices of the boards are greatly in excess of the cost of a new one. (True of automobile parts, also.)

The (Electrolux-Frigidaire) Gallery I have was a replacement for an Electrolux-Kenmore because the required replacement parts cost of the Kenmore was greater than the Gallery cost at discount. Note that all Electrolux/Kenmore/Frigidaire 36-inch cooktops of which I am aware use the same countertop cut-out. A few other brands may be adaptable.

[Writing as I am at this moment in the middle of some apparent deletion action above, I can't comment on @Stax accuracy. A potentiometer is a variable resistor. When properly built, they should last decades -- Ohmite and similar quality sealed units from the '50s still operate well.]

The touch controls have had the most development lifetime on Electrolux units, so I am not surprised that a pot might have failed as appliance manufacturers attempt to drive the very last penny from the production cost.

Frigidaire service will be coming on Friday...stay tuned!

I do my best! ;)

Update

Repair guy came this morning. The entire Board Assembly needs to be replaced. Of course it’s on backorder. He said, the problems could have existed right out of the box OR could be due to the dimpling on the induction pans I just bought and used! He said this dimpling creates a void, which forces the cooktop to draw excessive amounts of power = frying the board!

He said price of repair is $1500.

This cooktop was only used 2x. Next step, now on hold with Frigidaire, hoping they will agree to a new cooktop as opposed to waiting for repair component!

Pans used

I hope the company doesn't try to use the dimpling on your cookware as an excuse to not replace the board/new cooktop. However, if in fact this caused the problem, it would be cheaper to replace the cookware with a set having absolutely flat bottoms rather than risk a repeat occurance of this problem. Your situation is noteworthy to those contemplating the purchase of induction cooktops/cookware.

@ceisan, the repair guy was very nice. He said it was not my fault as the cookware is induction ready. He is simply noting what part is needEd and Frigidaire May replace the entire cooktop, especially if it is on backorder. His report will go in tomorrow. Now, I’m off to look for new pots, sheesh! The things they don’t tell you.

Oh wow, good to know. I'm trying to think of pans with dimpling. I use straight stainless and cast iron cookware.

Dimpling of the cookware?

I don't think so.

1. When you cook, lots of times the pan is not center to the cooking spot. Lots of void there.

2. All power electric system has built-in current limiting protection to limit power draw above specification.

If this happens again, one thing to check is the purity of your incoming power. (using a recording power meter) If you get power surges, that will fry your electronics in appliances.

Lightning storms can cause power surges.

"He said price of repair is $1500."

Typical control board for home appliance is a little more than $100, seldom higher than $200. Replacement is simple screwdriver work. youtube can show you how.

dcarch

There was no power surge. Amazing what they try to get away with, thank goodness it is under warranty. To be honest, the retailer should have just switched it out and deal With Frigidaire. After all, it was only used 2x and purchased end of august, and given the huge Amount of money our family spends in his store, commercial ventures).

I've seen numerous boards that are $200+, some $300+.

The board that incorporates the burner potentiometers is $265 at one source I checked. $289 at another. $225 at another. $298 at two others.

A system power board control board is $107 at one source.

The (2 zone) generator/power boards for the induction elements are $205 ea at one source.

I believe that the 'dimpling causes a void and hence excessive power draw' assertion is in conflict with basic electromagnetic theory. I have now cooked for about 5 years on my Gallery, and in every case the pan or pot has been supported on a triad of circular silicone pads.

This doesn't mean that the dimpling is not a factor, but if it is it is not due to creating a void. It could be that in combination with the particular metal being used that the pan is detected as sufficiently magnetically susceptible that the hob operates, but the actual resistance to induced current is too low or too high. Conceivably, a bad match between magnetic susceptibility and material resistance in the pan base might cause the hob coil drive circuit to see a particularly mis-matched load (voltage out of phase with current). Less power would be transmitted to the pan base, but perhaps the voltage-current relationship in the drive circuit would fall outside the intended design envelope.

Anyway, all that is speculation without some widely reported failure data involving the particular dimpled pan design. I see no value for induction heating purposes in the dimpling being present. Did the pan packaging labeling make any claims relevant to induction cooking? The base labeling doesn't mention induction ready, and the style and name suggest riding on the popularity of diamond hones. Has experience with this type of pan on induction suggested that it takes longer to heat a given quantity of water than a more conventional pan? And wouldn't one expect that pulling excessive power would cause a failure in a generator board and/or a filter board, and not a control board?

Outside electrical interference is a very common problem. Examples which I had come across in the past:

1. Hampton Roads Coliseum in Virginia was unable to operate after it was completed. Its sound system had unpredictable characteristics. After they replaced the entire system, the same problem remained. Much later, it was finally discovered that the naval battle ships not far away, whenever they scan their radar systems, interference to the sound system would happen. (RFI)

2. An insurance company in NYC suddenly had big problems with their computer system. The problem was traced to the building replaced new motors for the elevators. (Inductive interference).

3. Thunder storms are well known to cause problems. It happened to me. Had to buy a new computer system. (induced surge).

If the same problem happens again ( I hope not). Best to get an expert to check and see if you need to install a lightning arrester system.

Science: Lightning can strike the same place more than once.

Good luck to you.

dcarch

“Did the pan packaging labeling make any claims relevant to induction cooking” Yes, absolutely packaging clearly stated induction compatible. However, I am learning there are other cookware that states induction ‘safe’, (term used by the tech). Hence, these have now been purchased.

Update As of this AM, Cooktop now repaired, potentiometer replaced. There were visible burn marks on the old one. Replaced cookware, new ones are totally flat. Purchased extended warranty as well. Fingers crossed! Only took 1 month from beginning to end, talk about customer service, sheesh! Should have bought it at Costco.

Glad you got it up and going, hopefully you will get years of trouble free service. Unfortunately customer no service is quite common these days

Yay!!! Customer service is a thing of the past, but at least you're up and running. Now cook the heck out of it!!

"Yay!!! Customer service is a thing of the past---"

Nonsense! The lady I talked to in New Delhi was very nice.

dcarch :-)

I prefer my appliances to be as simple and computer free as possible.

We went range shopping recently and they introduced us to a floor model Frigidare gas range that they were trying to sell. I objected to it on some solid levels.

The most objectionable thing it has on it is a small digital screen that set the oven for you according to what you are putting in it., something like a microwave has. I object to this on all levels. Firstly, I don't cook standard kinds of things like that, and, if I did, I don't need anything as silly as that.

Secondly, that is just one more little darned computer screen to interact with and to go bad or become obsolete.

No way!!!!! No wonder that it remained unsold!!!!

What a silly thing to put on the front of a range! I want real controls. I don't; live a preprogrammed life.

I would never buy such a thing.

I just rescued my old range once again. It is just that it is so old and I was wanting a new one. Then the broiler ignitor went out so I thought that may be it was time to go shopping because I have been wanting a new range anyway.

Forget it. I just ordered a new ignitor for it and installed it a couple of days ago and we are good to go again. It was an easy repair

There were some articles in the media this past week about how the inventories of appliances are dwindling and also about how difficult it is to find someone to repair appliances in our current times. I am glad that I can do some things for myself. When it comes to circuit boards and electronics, I can't do anything about that. But, for more mechanical things, I can often manage with my skills.

I recently repaired my friends dryer and now I am eyeing my own washing machine that has a faulty water level.

It is only going to get worse. I like things to be simple. Sometimes things are made so unneccessarily complicated. Sure, it can do this and it can do that, but, who cares? I just want it simple and functional. I don't want to communicate with my appliances via the iPhone. I just want it to do a good job and to be repairable. If it does not meet those criteria, it is not a real durable goods item in my estimation.

Anyway , glad you got your range fixed.

"----Secondly, that is just one more little darned computer screen to interact with and to go bad or become obsolete.---"

And I want a range that I can still do my cooking when the power goes out.

dcarch

It seems that some gas appliances can no longer run without electricity. It used to be that you could light the oven with a match. As far as I can tell on my gas range, there is no gas coming out unless the electrical signal is there to regulate the gas and start the ignitor. So, I guess it is harder to stick your head in the oven and off yourself.

The stovetop can be lit with a match, but not the oven.

Don't get me started. My Bosch induction has been flako for months now. Bosch blames installation issues, tech ordered part (Bosch insists that he give the model and serial number and still sent the WRONG part). Supposedly coming with the correct one Thursday. Can't say I think much about BOSCH or their local service guys. Not reliable.

@Ron, good luck, it gets fixed. Nothing is reliable, Our service guy, repairs them all, Samsung, Bosch, Viking. He said there are issues with all of them.

Well, the ovens (temperature probe) haven't worked since day one. I just gave up.