I finished yesterday, before reading your post. Although wet-sanding IS what I did at the edges. My mistake: I didn't sacrifice (i.e. mud/skim) far enough outside of the patch line. I tried to feather it about only 1-1.5" inches from the tape -- and that caused too much of a "raised border" look that became more visible once painted. The last two times I feathered it far out, it blended well, but my knockdown-from-a-bottle looked awful. So this time I was trying to limit the area I needed to apply it (i.e. not ruin any existing knockdown). However, I didn't go far enough out and caused the raised border: what do you know? My knockdown this time looked excellent inside the patched area -- just the improper feathering looked amateurish. Not easy to make it match.... Maybe the 4th repair will be perfect! And maybe someone else will find this helpful. Thanks for the reply.

Hi,If the pieces arn't broken you can use them to patch. Buy some cheap 1x2 cut 2 pieces about 3" longer than the hole then slip the inside the hole and secure them with a couple of sheetrock screws then secure the patch to the 1x2.Get some quick drying patching compound that dries in about 10 minutes ( it is dry and mixes with water)also get some paper joint tape. Cut the tape longer than the seams of the patch then put the four cut tapes in a bucket of water to soak. Mix the mud and apply to the joint then take the wet tape and remove excess water and apply to the joint use more compound if needed. Never put on more than you want to sand off. When dry scrape off the high edges with your tapping knife. apply second and third if needed when you are happy with the joint apply the texture. If you have a knock down texture mix up some joint compund and apply it to the patch with a plastic bag you dab it on. Let it set but not harden, take you tapping knife and gently drag it across the patch. If the results are not to you liking remove the texture with a wet sponge. The firt pach should be in a place where it won't be seen so you can get it down. Good luck Woodbutcher

I am not-repeat not-a professional or expert, just a homeowner like yourself. Jost some ideas.... The edges: If it were mine, I think I would just tape and mud the wall and ceiling as best I could, and then cover the wall-ceiling joint crack with a crown molding or maybe even just some quarter-round stock. Light fixtures: On This Old House, when they have to make this cut in drywall, they use a special power tool with a spiral cutting bit that look like a drill bit, that guides on the inside edge of the metal fixture mounting box in the wall or ceiiling. Looks like you did this by hand with a keyhole saw or something similar. From what little I know about it, I'm not sure you can fix this with tape and mud. Again, if it were mine, I think what I would do is go down to Lowe's and buy an inexpensive plastic ceiling medallion, just big enough to cover the ragged part, and install that above the light fixture. It may be a bit "grand" for what looks like a pretty small room, but it's a lot less trouble than tearing out the ceiling and trying again.

When you say no air born, is that just fear of overspray? Or thinking the job is too small? The reason I ask is for a small repair I used a small aerosol can of finish. When I looked for the product I used, this helpful website popped up; maybe something you can use? https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-repair-orange-peel-texture-4153933