.. Pictured: Eco Shredder 1600. $100 off of Craigslist. Electric. Another $10 for the improvised adapter (the silver part). I limit it to leaves (large avocado leaves) and twigs. I've found that my kitchen waste disappears just fine and I no longer entertain any ideas about chopping or grinding that stuff up. Same for the lemons and oranges that drop to the ground and are no good. Avocado skins just take forever though. I have gone over leaves with the mulching mower on the driveway where I have walls on either side. Then I'll let the mower bag them. Dirty job though. Dirt and dust everywhere. For the bin, I prefer leaves spread out over the lawn while I mow and it chops the leaves some and mixes them with the grass clippings. to sense ..

Diane Pertson came up with a cure for chlorosis that includes lime since a pH that is too low also causes chlorosis. Here is what she wrote: Diane Pertson, Otter Point, Vancouver Island, wrote: "I have found the following foolproof formula for chlorotic leaves or a rhododendron that isn't looking healthy: Purchase a bag of Epsom Salts crystals (magnesium sulfate) (available here in bulk at farm-and-feed outlets), about $4.00 for a 5 lb. bag - and a bottle of FULLY Chelated Iron & Zinc (this is a very concentrated liquid - the chelation means it is in a form that can be readily absorbed by the plant), about $7.00 for 1 quart; In a one gallon watering can, put in 2 Tbsp. of Epsom Salts crystals and 2 Tbsp. of Iron and Zinc liquid - fill with warm water and stir to dissolve; Sprinkle this over the rhododendron - by that I mean drench the leaves with the solution and pour the remainder around the drip line of the root ball. In 1-2 weeks, the leaves should be nice and green. You could repeat the process at this time if the leaves aren't fully green. This works even better if, a month before, you have sweetened the soil by sprinkling a little Dolomite Lime on the roots. Very acidic soil can prevent the roots from taking up nutrients. As many of my rhododendrons are planted in very acidic soil under a canopy of giant cedar trees, I find an application of Dolomite and a light topdressing of mushroom manure in late spring is all they need. If soil is too acid, the symptoms can be the same. Very acidic soil can prevent the roots from taking up nutrients. In the western USA where many rhododendrons are planted in very acidic forest soil, an application of Dolomite and a light topdressing of mushroom manure in late spring is all they need. Sprinkle the lime on in late winter, very early spring. Don't overdo it - just a light sprinkle. If it is mid-spring, get the lime on right away so the rhododendron roots will be able to take up the soil nutrients in time for new growth. If you don't have rain, water it in well."

Wow, it's a small world (or internet in this case). I don't keep up with the conifer forum as well as I do some of the other forums, so I didn't realize this thread was a spin off of another one, but it's still a good idea to have the link to the above article as a reference for any future searches. I agree with Ken, that frequent replanting would go a long way towards solving the issues relating to soil decomposition, except for four things. First, even if you change your soil every other year, most soils will still have some drainage deterioration towards the end of the two year period. Second, if you use your old soil and mix it back in as many people do, that has the potential to cause problems. Third, it's good for everyone to understand how drainage works so that they are better able to decide what ingredients are best for particular plants or circumstances. Different species have different moisture and drainage requirements, and different circumstances (climate, amount of supplemental watering available, etc) require adjustment. Fourth, and maybe most importantly, many people (we know who we are) won't replant frequently enough even though this would be best. As for drainage, as it applies to container culture, being vastly different from drainage, as it applies to in-ground plantings, I'm not so sure. The physics is the same! Only the variable, or circumstances, change. A true understanding of one is a true understanding of both.

Just three years ago, where my house and yard is now was just a field of weeds. On my half acre lot, I've mulched with between 500 and 600 bags of leaves from neighbors, ground up, and applied thickly to growing beds, spread regularly and thinly on the lawn. In some of the areas where I wasn't going to pay much attention to for a few years, I put down a thick layer of newspaper before piling on the leaf mulch. In areas where I am actively gardening, I just pile on the leaves each fall and winter(already started collecting leaves this year). I already have absolutely no weed "problem" in my garden areas. Yes, the mulch keeps down almost all of the weeds. Also, some weeds sprout and come through the mulch. The advantage of the mulch is that the soil underneath never is hard, dry, and impossible to remove weeds from. I walked through my garden often that first year in particular, to remove weeds when small and well BEFORE they can ever go to seed. Anything that can grow from any small piece of the subject weed or that included seeds(along borders, etc., I put in a trash can for removal from my property. More benign things go in the compost pile. But they are very easy to pull from well mulched soil, and there just aren't many of them. The casual way I deal with weeding is an indication that just the organic mulch is all I need. I have seen, heard, and experienced horrible things with landscape fabric, and I won't subject myself to that.