Phase 1: On-site Removal

· We observe all lead-safe work practices.

· The window sashes are removed from the opening and wrapped for transport.

· Any necessary paint removal within the window frame is addressed at this time.

· Our work starts at the interior stop molding and it ends at the interior face of the blind stop.

· Sashes and stop moldings are now removed from the building and loaded for transport.

Phase 2: At the Shop

· Paint is removed from all surfaces to the bare wood.

· All glass is removed from the sashes (See "Glass" below).

· With the sashes stripped to the bare wood, we then address any areas of damage or rot.

· Most damage areas will be repaired using epoxy, however, some areas may be replaced or repaired with wood as determined by the contractor.

· The sashes are then sanded and prepped for finishing.

· A sealer consisting of a 50/50 mixture of alkyd resin and mineral spirits is applied to the exterior and any weathered sections of each sash to solidify the wood fibers and ensure proper adhesion of the following finish coats.

· Next, a slow-drying alkyd primer is applied to all surfaces (except the sides of double-hung sashes).

· Once the primer dries, 2 coats of a high quality latex paint is applied to exterior surfaces (Default: Sherwin Williams Duration) and high quality oil paint is applied to the interior surfaces (BM Impervo).

· Then, the glass is reinstalled by bedding it in a linseed oil glazing, secured with glazier's points.

· The exterior glazing is then applied and the sashes are set aside to set for roughly 2 weeks.

· Final coats of paint are now applied, hardware is installed (See "Hardware" below), and weather stripping (See "Weather-stripping") is installed on each sash.

· Glass:

o In-tact glass is cleaned and catalogued and broken glass is replaced.

o The in-tact glass may have blemishes but the reuse is assumed in this bid. Replacement of intact glass would be an additional charge (typically $4 per sq. ft.).

o In some cases, code may require the replacement of the original glass with safety glass. We do our best to replace broken glass (including glass broken in restoration process, about 5%) with old glass to match. However, larger panes will likely be replaced with new glass.

· Hardware:

o This bid assumes the reuse of the existing hardware.

o Hardware will be restored by removing paint and build-up.

o Moving parts will be lubricated and surface will be buffed.

o If new parts are needed they will be ordered or fabricated at an additional cost.

· Weather-stripping:

o We utilize a variety of different weather-stripping methods depending on the style and function of the window.

o Most often, a brush-seal is attached to a groove made in the sides of the sash and a silicone bulb seal is applied to a groove in the bottom of the lower sash and top of the upper sash.

o Other times, we use spring bronze, but brush and silicone is the default.

· Suspension System:

o For all double-hung windows, the price of addressing the suspension system is included unless otherwise noted.

o This involves replacing and reattaching existing chains or ropes with new copper-dipped steel chain.

o Chains attached to the upper sash that are in good repair may not be replaced but all chains on the lower sash will be replaced. All ropes will be replaced.

o The owner may also choose to use sash rope instead of chain at no additional cost.

o This bid assumes the existence of properly sized sash weights. If it is discovered weights are missing or poorly sized, there may be an additional charge.

Phase 3: On-site Reinstallation

· At this point, the sashes and doors are returned to the job-site.

· The sashes are reinstalled in their original openings.

· Any final painting, weather-stripping, or hardware installation is completed at this time.

· Proper operation and weather-seal is tested.

Definitely keep the original windows if you can swing it. I have a family member who went to a great deal of trouble to preserve (and reinstate, where need be) period details in the circa 1900 family house (stripping 100 years of paint layer upon paint layer—by hand—from the original American chestnut doors and oak trim; having a new front door custom made to exactly match the original, while reusing the original hardware; adding RIFT-SAWN OAK board and batten wainscoting with plate ledge and cornice with hundreds of corbels (?), all custom-milled, to match the original rift-sawn oak staircase; installing custom-made William Morris wallpaper) only to replace ALL the windows, which were ALL ORIGINAL (and in great shape, to boot), with VINYL windows. 😖🤬🤮

I forgot to answer the question! Yes, that quote looks good (to me, at least.) Have you seen examples of this shop’s restoration work?

Thank you Sammy, and yes I have. They are pretty much the primary window restoration shop in the region and have worked on several fairly notable buildings in the area. The wood looks excellent to me, but I also don't entirely know what I am looking at beyond the outward appearance.

It doesn’t say anything in there about repairing the window opening (if necessary) or preparing it (sill pan and flashing, head flashing, insulation, etc., all if necessary) for the reinstallation of the windows. Is that done by someone else?

This is the only part I really see any mention of the frames themselves:

"The window sashes are now removed from the opening and wrapped for transport. Any necessary paint removal within the window frame is addressed at this time. Our focus is on all friction points that could contain lead paint. So our work starts at the interior stop molding and it ends at the interior face of the blind stop."

And this part about weather-stripping:

"We utilize a variety of different weather-stripping methods depending on the style and function of the window. Most often, a brush-seal is attached to a groove made in the sides of the sash and a silicone bulb seal is applied to a groove in the bottom of the lower sash and top of the upper sash. Other times, we use spring bronze. Brush and silicone is the default."

I will ask specifics about flashing and insulation, so thank you for that. This is the only contractor for the work so anything necessary should be covered by their work scope.

A few years ago I had my windows and entry door restored in my 1100 sq. ft. 1928 house. My goal was to make all of the windows easily operable, to repair dry rot (one window sill), to restore the original divided light door and hardware, and to maintain the architectural integrity of the house. I don't recall the cost but I think it was under $10k.

Consider, though, that I had fewer windows than you and the scope of work was different. Most of my windows are easily accessible from the outside, and there are no screens. All work was done onsite rather than in a shop. The only weather stripping was for the front door. New latches were installed where needed. The work did not include any painting. I was home to observe the work and I was impressed with how labor intensive it was. It took many days of focused work to complete.

This is specialty work so not cheap. But replacing my old-growth windows with new wood windows would have cost much more than restoration. And I couldn't bring myself to install white vinyl windows in my little English cottage. That said, I live in a relatively mild climate (Pacific Northwest) that only occasionally experiences extreme weather, which might not be your situation. Most of my neighbors have chosen to replace rather than restore their windows, so I'm definitely the odd one on the block. Good luck with your project.

Thank you einportlandor, great to hear about your experience.

I live in the US northeast so experience big temperature and weather swings throughout the year, so yes new growth wood windows might not react so well to the changes in climate which I also did not consider. If I got new windows it might have to be some kind of hybrid or clad construction which I also don't know anything about.

What condition are the windows in now? The cost to accomplish what is listed may be reasonable but I question the need. There are companies that will make new custom sash for your existing window frames, complete with insulated glass. Then you can trash the triple tracks.

The frames themselves are not in bad shape. The outsides have paint peeling and chipping in places which is really hard to access due to the storm windows, and the decades of layers of paint makes some not close all the way.

The glazing is bad, however. Some panes have visible gaps between the glass and frame which seem to let in significant street noise and drafts.

Good things to ask, thank you toddindm.

Yes I am not sure how worth it would be at that price to save the windows, it seems like there is nothing particularly special about them other than their age, and if I can replace with newer wood or wood hybrid models of roughly equal quality for about the same price that seems like the better way to go.

The age, grid work and profiles make them special. Nothing quite like a well maintained vintage window , I love the look, the rattle of the weights, the sound of the pulleys And the wavy glass. I remember changing out the screens panels to the glass panels and cleaning the glass as a youth ( kind of a bad memory) . I think the price seems a bit high, and. I would expect it to be higher since it is difficult to remove that many panes of glass without breakage. To sum up my opinion I would rather have a 68 Camaro vs a 2020 Camaro if I was just going to look at it And drive a few weekends a month in idea conditions , but if I want an every day driver that is faster , handles better, get better mileage, more comfortable, ease of ownership I’m going 2020. The only difference in the car comparison is the 68 Camaro will hold its value better but if you throw in the cost of a full restoration it may not. Some window purist will say a home with restored windows will increase the value of a home but in most cases I would disagree if you are using a quality window , a lot of times even a cheap window will improve resale value since there are not many out there that would appreciate a restored old window.

Dave H--I'm in the same boat with respect to your debate. My windows are 1927 about what to do with our windows. Also in the NE. Hubby had a few replaced already -- wood interiors with alum clad and they were not cheap either. These windows had been covered up with drywall, the frames missing etc. We uncovered the walls, found the windows and they were too far gone I am a fan of restoring and would rather but now we would be left with a mix. The replacement windows have been on our house for 7 years and look very much like the original. All the wood work inside I have stripped and redone--being a tudor--we are talking a lot of wood. So, I good solid wood window can be decent too.