try to jack up the tractor so the rear wheels are off the ground. start it up and put it in drive/foward and see if whats left of the axle spins as it should. if ok, then try in reverse as well. if still ok, then try to grab the opposite wheel that is spinning and attempt to put a load on it as it spins slowly, this might take two people. if still ok. then do what the previous poster said and get it welded at a welding shop. there is a possibility that something is floating around inside the hydro unit causing this thing to jam up, like a broken gear tooth or maybe just a lot of ground up metal or dirt. rtu sealant can cause this problem as well, if the hydraulic pump has no screen to prevent things like this from getting into it. so I would flush and change the hydro fluid and filter as well. If the axle does not spin as it should while in gear, then you will need to open the trans case up and inspect it very closely, and try to find what is broken. if nothing, then I would suspect the pump itself. if something broken, try to find a replacement at sears service center. if this is not possible, swap it for a new transmission. you can try www.surpluscenter.com for a new, bolt in lawn tractor transmission. try to see if they can cross reference your part number or model number to one of theirs. hope this helps. altbob

I've owned a GR2100 for a little of 2 years now -- bye-bye warrantee. 1. Dropping the mow deck is fairly easy without special setups. Even though the deck weighs 200 lbs it easily slides out sideways from under the machine. Before removing the shaft push the otherwise disconnected deck forward. Reach behind the left rear wheel and pull back the collar on the shart -- comes apart easy, and remove the rear piece from the spline. You will then have to twist and turn the deck out from under the tractor -- the biggest problem is clearing the part of the shaft that doesn't come apart. The deck is relatively easy to work on -- I just recently installed the mulch kit myself. 2. I made a crude measurement of the incline on the hill in front of my house. It is just shy of 40 degrees. I can get up and down this hill without brakes just by using the toe-heel control. I do, however, periodically run into a hydrostatic-lock condition climbing the hill. I back down and get a running start and usually make it the 2nd time. If not, I will go up a less steep section and come down the more steep section. As I indicated, I rarely use the break and frankly don't feel comfortable with the brake because it is easy to lock the wheels suddenly with it. I slow down and sometimes stop going down the hill just by putting a little back pressure on my toe-heel control. 3. With that said, I now come to the main reason I'm posting at this time. I referred a friend to a local Kubota dealer to purchase a GR2000. He was told it was discontinued because of transmission problems. My understanding is the GR2100 has the same transmission and I have always wondered whether hydrostatic lock was normal. Now I'm not so sure and even concerned because I am a couple of months outside of my warrantee. Any thoughts out there?

I love my zero turn very much. (see attached photo) I bought a 2100 a while back for my wife because she doesnt like zero turns. me personally i dont like the steering on it its kind of like a 4-wheel differential on a truck. This tractor traveling in a straight direction is in All Wheel Drive. When starting a turn, the Glide Steer is engaged. The inside rear wheel begins to track freely, thus enabling a tight turn while preventing damage to the turf. The front wheels turn 70 degrees, much more than other garden tractors in the marketplace. I havent had any problems out of the transmission yet. (KNOCK ON WOOD) I say if it goes for the right price go for it say around the $2500-$3500 price range i paid $6000 for mine brand new and it came with a bagger. And on a 2nd note i would ask the seller if you can drive it before buying to see if you like the way it steers. Thats the main complaint i've seen about this mower. Here is a link that might be useful: glide steer demostration

i had the same issue on my kawasaki engine in a 2003 JD 235 a couple of months ago. the engine had to be removed to replace the sump gasket, certainly something i am not capable of doing. the fix is not inexpensive but given the quality and condition of the machine, it was worth it (they don't put k7x transmissions in entry level GT's anymore). about $500 in the balto/wash area plus the ridiculous pick up and delivery fee dealerships are now charging.