Brute strength and awkwardness pal,sorry.Your deck weighs around 200lbs.Be careful,it can hurt you.

Now,having said that,the first thing you do is remove the rear cover above the hitch so you can reach the rear driveshaft coupler from the rear.With one hand grip the outer ring and push it towards the front to release the shaft(its spring-loaded).Goes back the same way,but a little tougher because the splines have to line up.If you could use two hands this would be easy,but I couldn't.

Make sure the mowing height adjuster is at lowest position(deck raised-don't forget).

Release front pin.Remove front hitch assy(two pieces).

Pull and lock rear pins on each side.You may have to lift up on the deck to get these to release.Turn wheel to the right and work it out from under the tractor.I propped my 48" up against a wall,but be careful as it will try to slide down.Block it or have help to hold it.

These decks are made with 1/8"steel with a full inner baffle of 1/8" steel.Like two heavy decks in one.

If you're going to remove the blades for sharpening,it takes a 30mm socket.Electric/air impact gun comes in handy.

With the deck removed it's a good time to clean the underside,grease the three grease fittings,and check/or change the oil in the gearbox(50hrs).

I don't think it matters at what point you remove the driveshaft.

One more point.Pull down hard on the lift arm to make sure its all the way down before reinstalling the rear pins.You won't have to lift as much to get them to line up.I'm going to remove those pins on mine and grind them down to a point so they'll be easier to get back in the holes next time.

locknut

Hi Jswan101,

I also do what Locknut said, except I never have had to remove the rear cover above the hitch. I just lower the deck fully, lay down and reach back and pull the sleeve release on the driveshaft from between the wheels on the left side of the tractor (side with the PTO & hydraulic lift controls). When replacing, I also lube the spindles check the gearbox oil level and also put a little grease on the drive shaft splines before I re-attach.

When I have the deck out, I usually check everything underneath the tractor as well. The first time I did this I found a wire harness assembly that was starting to rub on the deck lift linkages (no real damage done yet). I had to secure them out of the way. This was a problem of another GR owner who posted here last year that the wires were cut right through and the tractor died.

Pete.

locknut: Thanks a million for the help. I think I would have struggle for quite awhile before I ever thought of removing the rear cover to get access to the drive shaft. The operators manual is worthless as far as giving you any help in removing and reinstalling the deck.

When you say to make sure the mowing height adjuster is at the lowest position(deck raised-don't forget)are you referring to having the deck raised when turning the knob to make the adjustment from normal mowing height to the lowest position or do you have to have the deck raised to get the driveshaft out?

Do you have to set the anti-scalping wheels to their highest position before trying to remove the deck?

Regarding the operators manual maybe you can help clarify a couple of items I notice. 1)To check the transmission fluid level the instructions say to park the machine on a flat service, lower the implement to the ground and remove the key. Then the note at the bottom of the page says "check the oil level of the transmission case with the mower lifted up. I guess my question is do you check it with the mower up or down? 2)When reinstalling the blades the manual says to tighten the outer blades from 103 to 118 N-m of torque but nothing about the center blade. Am I missing something here?

Thanks again for all of your help. Hopefully once I do some of these things I won't be so up tight. ( I do check the transmission fluid level but I have been doing it with the deck up)

jswan101

Jswan101,

I wondered the same thing when I first checked the Transaxle fluid. Speaking with a Kubota tech last year, you should check the fluid with the deck fully raised. This allows the max amount of fluid to be put into the hydraulic cylinder that lifts the deck. Checking the fluid level at this point will ensure you are not too low to operate the transmission.

Pete.

hayabusa:

Thanks for you help. I think I will try to see which way works best for me to remove the driveshaft. If my son helps me I think he will try to do it without removing the rear cover but I think I may have to use Locknut's method.

Thanks for sharing all of the other things you do when you have the deck off. I surely want to do everything I can if I do in fact get that beast of a deck off. I'll be sure to check any wires to see if there are any problems. Also I appreciate the answer on correct way to check the transmission fluid.

Thanks again and have a great day.

jswan101 (Jim)

On my G2160 the anti-scalp wheels can be turned 90 degrees so once the deck is off it just rolls out from under. Good thing too - the 54 inch deck is over 200 pounds

Removing and replacing the shaft is simple, once you've done it a time or two

Don

Hi don21:

Yeah I saw that on some of the units at the Kubota dealers but unfortunately the anti-scalp wheels on the GR2100 are fixed so I guess it will require a little effort to push the deck out. With such a heavy deck I don't know why they didn't use the same system that is on your G2160.

Thanks for your response and your statement about replacing the shaft is encouraging.

jswan101(Jim)

If I had a chain hoist I'd be tempted to raise the front end high enough to get my impact on those blade bolts and eliminate removing the deck.Anyone ever try this stunt?

It's still a good idea to remove the deck at least once a year, to clean and grease things that are very hard to get to with the deck still on the tractor

Don

Is there any difference in cut quality or bagging quality between the 2160 and 2100. i am having trouble deciding.

It seems there is more versatility with the 2160? You can run an attahcemnt off of the back right?

Hi morris07034,

I can't comment on the cut quality of the G2160 but as far as the GR2100 I am not real happy with the quality of the cut I am getting. I have just cut the grass with it four or five times and am now trying to make sure the deck is level and will sharpen the blades to see if I can improve the cut.

Part of my problem might be that the GR2100 is replacing a Simplicity Regent which seemed to give a perfect cut every time and that is what I was expecting from the GR2100.

I would say the cut from the G2160 should be fine and it certainly would be more versatile than the GR2100.

Good luck in your research.

Jim S.

Hi, I'm new to this forum, so I'm not exactly sure how it works, or if anybody is still reading this thread, but here goes....
I'm considering purchasing a GR2000, I'm looking for any advice/ thoughts. But 2 big questions.
Will it be able to push the snowblower up a long steep driveway? and how topheavy is it as a mower in sideway cutting. I don't plan on cutting anything that I haven't been able to cut with my old Sears Craftsman GT3000 (sitting on the fenders of course)
I plowed the snow off the driveway with the Sears with chains and wheel weights. Looking at the AWD and rear weights and chains on the GR2000.
Thoughts?

I have ridden my GR2100 in the snow and it did real well. I have weights and AG tires. I imagine weights and chains would be impressive. I do not have a blower yet but it is in the plans. My driveway is very steep and I am convinced their will be no problem.
Regarding top heavy question. When I test drove the GR, the dealer had a very steep drainage ditch to traverse. I was not comfortable testing the stability. However the salesman was proud to show how stable the tractor can be on slopes. I know the tractor is stable but I still don't like the feeling of cutting horizontally. I choose the recommended vertical approach which is outstanding.

My 2160 has a good cut quality-but it took awhile to get setup on the deck right. The optional high-lift blades made a huge difference vs the original standard blades. The G2160 has a cast-iron hydrostatic transaxle vs an aluminum unit on the GR2000/2100,and the 2160 has a rear hitch option where the GR series does not.Both have the 21hp liquid cooled diesel available. I never thought I'd like a little diesel so much-it's a powerhouse that seems to make fuel compard to the old gas powered units I've used for years. 1/2 gallon per hour of FULLY LOADED use-I am still amazed after I use the machine and check the fuel level-I'll save enough in fuel alone over the next 3-4 years to pay for the diesel(or very close to it). I almost got the GR2100, and it's a good machine,the G2160 is obviously more favored by me..I'm a bit biased though.
JL

I'd try it first without weights or chains.If more traction is needed fill all four tires with windshield washer antifreeze.

Here's some pics of the GR2000 hoisted in the air for blade changing.Don't see a good way to block it up from underneath,so I'll design something to support it from the topside tomorrow and have some more pics.

Here is a link that might be useful: Lifting project

Deck removal project completed.I found it easier to roll the deck out the front and prop it up to change the blades,rather than lying on my back underneath the deck.Also made a lift bracket that gives a great deal of leverage which makes the deck a lot easier to move around.A lot like my old Simplicity deck.With the tractor raised up it's much more open to reach in with my right arm to re-attach the deck driveshaft coupler.Don't have to reach in from the rear now.More pics in the link.

Here is a link that might be useful: deck removal project

Good job there locknut. No offense intended so don't take any. I can't tell (the picture just doesn't have enough resolution on my screen) if you "softened" or blunted the edges of the bracket you use to secure your deck while it is standing on it's edge. I know if I attached something like that on a wall or a door jamb "I" would hit it at least 3 times a day before "learning my lesson". May I suggest you modify the bracket by changing the shape of the mounting holes from "round" to "key hole". Then you could just leave the heads of the mtg screws raised from the surface of the door jamb to slip the bracket over the heads and then slide the slot portion of the "key hole" into place. Your bracket would be instantly mountable and removable as needed. Just a thought and certainly I'm not being critical. I have learned that I must try to anticipate problems in the contrivances I make to protect me from harm, sometimes I'm my own worst enemy. I like the "top notch" fabrication and machine work. Keep on!

I'm looking over my GR2100 to find the grease fittings so I'll be able to do the required maintenance and can't locate the two zerks that are referred to as used to grease the "center Pin". There is a picture on page 48 of the operators manual but there is nothing to reference it to a location on the tractor.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Jim S.

Well,I thought about that and decided it was too much trouble to make keyholes in that heavy gauge steel.And,I'm the only person that would get close enough to bump into it.I'll take it down at the end of the mowing season so you can have some piece of mind..... :-)

locknut

The front axle pivots on a pin at tractor centerline.The rear zerk is just to the right of the front input shaft u-joint.The front one is directly in front on the other end of the pivot pin.

locknut

Locknut, Thanks for the information on the location of the grease zerks for the center pin. You are the man!!

Jim S.

locknut and other members: Since I mentioned the "keyhole" feature, I thought I'd come back and post a short (by my standards) "How to DIY) on creating "keyhole hangers" in metal brackets etc. without using an end mill. On the posted sketch I use holes of 3/8" and 1/4" dia. as examples. The holes can be sized to match any type or size of bolt or screw. The "rule of thumb" is that the large hole needs to slightly larger than the head of the bolt or screw and large enough to insert a metal cutting jigsaw into it. The small hole needs to be slightly larger than the diameter of the shank of bolt or screw. The slot connecting the 2 holes should be the same width as the small hole diameter. How long you make the slots (distance from large hole to small hole) is up to the fabricator, but should be at least "the diameter of the screw head", from the EDGE OF LARGE HOLE to the CENTER OF SMALL HOLE in length. To set up the mounting screws in the surface where you want to hang the bracket or object, you simply place the bracket in the desired location and mark the position of the small hole end of keyhole. Thread the screws or bolts in at the marks leaving the head raised above the surface a distance slightly greater than the thickness of the bracket or object (measured at the keyhole slot). I know this isn't the "Metalcraft Forum or "Fabricating Forum", but as locknut and some others have clearly demonstrated, occasionally (or often), some members "get outside the box" and fabricate some things in their own shop, garage, shed, or basement. So I am sharing this little technique for adding a "Keyhole hanger" feature to brackets or other such things you might make. Keyhole hangers make the item instantly mountable and removable which can mean quick and convenient. Keyhole hangers also offer a way to hang something on a vertical surface without the mounting screws showing (compare to hanging a picture or other object where the actual hanger is hidden behind the object. I'll post the sketch separately.

sketch

Here is a link that might be useful: Link to sketch

Something is not working right with posting the sketch. I've tried a dozen times to get it posted and nothing is working this AM.

The link is to photobucket.com and not the specific url of your jpg.

OK....it was an 1D10T error. Got it straightened out. Sketch{{gwi:327123}}

mownie,
Thanks for the detailed tutorial on the fine art of keyhole slotting....:-)

Now,on to another tip on removing the decks on these mowers.I just now put the deck back under the tractor today and had one helluva time getting that damn driveshaft coupler hooked up.Screw Kubota and their poor engineering.I'll do it my way.Remove the bolt from the shaft on the deck end and slide the coupler off the shaft.Make sure the bolt lines up with the groove on the shaft and re-tighten the bolt.This process is way easier.I thought afterwards that maybe the driveshaft could be installed backwards and still work.I'll check that next time I have the deck off.

Sometimes the "final stage" in the engineering process takes place in the hands of the user. This may be a case of "that's the way we always did before" on behalf of Kubota, meaning: When the PTO shaft is connected to a rear-facing PTO, working room is not an issue. Besides, normally if you are detaching an implement, you will also take off the PTO driveshaft. You see, those Kubota engineers probably haven't ever considered a need to take the deck off leaving the PTO shaft in place. Next time you do this chore, check out whether the splines on the stub shaft of the deck and the PTO are the same. You can "test fit" the shaft on the deck with it out from under the tractor. If it does interchange and lock in place you have devised a better way to handle that "no dam* room to work" problem. Taking the PTO shaft off the tractor PTO would likely be a piece of cake once you have the deck dragged out. If you can flip the shaft around so the end with the retainer bolt is on the tractor PTO output, you would have plenty of work room with the deck off. JMHO

locknut, I just thought of this. When you took the bolt off the "deck end" of the shaft, you just slid the portion of the coupler off of the splined stub shaft (input to gearbox) didn't you? You did not actually separate the 2 halves of the driveshaft itself, right? As long as you left the driveshaft in one piece and only removed the coupler portion of the shaft assembly....no problem. If ever the 2 halves (telescoping sections) of the driveshaft are to be separated or "pulled apart", index marks need to be put on each half so the shaft U-joints can be properly "timed" during reassembly. An "out of phase" driveshaft is truly a vibration that you do not want to experience. Just wanted to let it be known that once the driveshaft is made, it must always be aligned to that original phasing or index if ever pulled apart.

mownie,
Yep,it's easy to put the coupler on the output shaft without it attached to the deck.I can see why they did it that way....accidently turn the PTO on and all hell would break loose.....

I might even try marking the shafts so the two halves will line up and not have to remove either coupler.I tried again today and the splines won't line up randomly,they have to be at a certain spot.

that's comforting about the "fit only one way", will eliminate that concern. Yeah, you're right about the "all hell breaking loose" if the PTO were engaged with the PTO shaft dangling from the PTO. Downright scary to imagine even. I still think you'll be just fine if the "Quick coupler" end can be swapped to the deck end of configuration. Surely you will remember to completely remove the driveshaft if you have a reason to operate the tractor with the deck removed.

mownie,
Glad you hit on this thread.That's why the splines would only go together at one point.I wasn't aware of that timing issue.Thanks!

Any type of driveshaft (or propeller shaft as they are sometimes called) that has cross trunnion universal joints AND a "slip yoke" or 2 telescoping halves must be kept in the same index or phasing that it was manufacture to. Some assemblies (like yours) are made in a "GO/NO GO manner to prevent "out of phase" mating of the 2 halves. On shaft assemblies that WILL mate at any spline combination, out of phase vibration is violent enough to break u-joints and sometimes other parts if run long in this condition. The greater the drive shaft operating angle, the more violent the vibration. Some shaft assemblies that will mate at any spline already have index marks in the form of arrows or Vee's stamped on each half. It never hurts to look for the marks and if you find none, put some marks of your own in place for CYA factor.

I've owned a GR2100 for a little of 2 years now -- bye-bye warrantee.

1. Dropping the mow deck is fairly easy without special setups. Even though the deck weighs 200 lbs it easily slides out sideways from under the machine. Before removing the shaft push the otherwise disconnected deck forward. Reach behind the left rear wheel and pull back the collar on the shart -- comes apart easy, and remove the rear piece from the spline. You will then have to twist and turn the deck out from under the tractor -- the biggest problem is clearing the part of the shaft that doesn't come apart. The deck is relatively easy to work on -- I just recently installed the mulch kit myself.

2. I made a crude measurement of the incline on the hill in front of my house. It is just shy of 40 degrees. I can get up and down this hill without brakes just by using the toe-heel control. I do, however, periodically run into a hydrostatic-lock condition climbing the hill. I back down and get a running start and usually make it the 2nd time. If not, I will go up a less steep section and come down the more steep section. As I indicated, I rarely use the break and frankly don't feel comfortable with the brake because it is easy to lock the wheels suddenly with it. I slow down and sometimes stop going down the hill just by putting a little back pressure on my toe-heel control.

3. With that said, I now come to the main reason I'm posting at this time. I referred a friend to a local Kubota dealer to purchase a GR2000. He was told it was discontinued because of transmission problems. My understanding is the GR2100 has the same transmission and I have always wondered whether hydrostatic lock was normal. Now I'm not so sure and even concerned because I am a couple of months outside of my warrantee. Any thoughts out there?

So,how do you like the mulch kit?

What do you mean by hydrostatic-lock?Mine will stall out on some parts of the steep hill that I mow.I always thought it's just the hydro going into bypass mode.I've never tried the reverse hydro trick going downhill.I just feather the brake.I did push hard one time and the front wheels slid first.

If that hill of yours is actually 40° you have bigger nuggets than I do.I'd bust the steering wheel and fly out over the hood!

Maybe your local dealer said that because they didn't have any and tried to sell the guy something else.My local has sold several this season and has two in stock.I ask them about a new model and they said they heard a rumour,but nothing definite.

I looked at a new BX15? with a loader and backhoe on it.I'd trade for one of those if they had Glidesteer.That feature is the cat's meow.

Here is a link that might be useful: GR2000 page